seatkid

No cover - just a filter and a frame - is the frame missing?

"17965 - Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation" indicates that the turbo boost pressure is too great - i.e. the vacuum is not beeing dumped quickly enough and/or the vane actuator is not returning to its default off position quickly enough. Often this is the fault of the TCS being dirty or the "atmospheric" connection to the TCS is blocked - there is a small "mini" air filter connected on the end of the "ATM" pipe - it can get blocked. A simple test would be to remove the "ATM" pipe on the TCS and see if its any better. For reference here a few photos of where the TCS is and what is looks like on a MkII Its behind a shroud on the rear bulkhead:- Three pipes are connected - VAC vacuum supply, ATM atmospheric connection,and OUT vane vacuum Close up of a TCS, the ATM connection is the black one....

The amount of vacuum applied to the vane actuator is regulated by the TCS - Turbo Control Solenoid, also known as the Boost Control Solenoid. This is mounted on the bulkhead behind a shroud to the rear of the Turbo. The ECU send a varying voltage to the solenoid to vary the vacuum to the actuator which in turn varies the boost pressure. When the ECU sees the control system is not responding correctly i.e. the boost pressure is either too high or too low - it simply switches the boost off - limp home mode. Switching off the ignition resets limp home mode. I would not recomend you open up and clean the turbo - thats a specialist job, but you can try to lubricate the vane actuator shaft, and IIRC the vane vacuum actuator can be removed. Before you start stripping the Turbo off, double check all the vacuum circuit and check and clean the TCS which is known to give problems occasionally. see next post...

Try a search on cambelt change (make sure its refering to the Mk1 model) and you will find the procedure for setting the timing. Its on the TIS CD. You have to strip off the covers, and the rocker box cover. You set the engine at TDC. There is a flat at the (small) end of the camshaft, which should line up with a flat on the head - you should be able to insert a feeler gauge here if its right. Both the cam and pump timing are adjusted by loosening the sprocket, adjusting and tightening up. Unless you know what you're doing, its a job best left to an expert.

I already established that 50% brighter bulbs are really only 2% brighter at best thankyou. :lol:

Really?Are you sure? Never heard of aircon giving a problem on the Galaxy.... :lol: Pass the brandy ol man..... ;) 'Known' referring to the fact that what followed is from the TSB's on TIS. 'TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN No.112/2002 Car and Light/Medium Commercial 28.11.2002' probably gives that away!!!!!!! :lol: Andy. Andy.....you have a faulty sarcasm sensor........ :lol:

Check your spare wheel is not loose.

Go faster stripes were very popular once, IIRC they added between 5 to 15% more speed........ :lol:

No fuel pump on 97 Tdi (its part of the distributor) It sounds as if the Camshaft pulley has slipped from its correct position - the bolt may not have been tightened correctly at the cambelt change. No possibilty you filled it with petrol?

Does this mean you're gonna fix your car at last? :blink:

-21C a few years ago visiting Poland. Still started first turn! :blink:

The reason is the high shear force on the cams that drive the PD injectors. Wrong oil = premature camshaft/PD injector wear - For this reason alone I would never risk buying a second hand PD powered motor as I am convinced that 50% of servicing (main dealer or otherwise) - the wrong oil is used. Matt jr. ---- turn up on spec, ask the service manage to allow you to speak to the person who serviced your car. Then ask that person "Show me what oil you put in my car" and see what happens. If you don't get cooperation or you're not convinced, ask the manager nicely if he will drop the oil and refill it with the correct spec oil, and witness it. Remind him you have written proof the wrong oil was used, its not your fault that their QA or computer systems may be wrong.......

Faulty Brake switch, faulty brake light or ECU has detected a faulty sensor. Ironically NOT faulty glow plugs....

Does my bum look big in this?

I could say something........but MO4 is lurking.......and just dying to moderate me again.... :D

What the....... Moderated? Why? Is it because MO4 is a woman? :(

Yep, I would say it looks like a........Galaxy..... :(

Lambda sensors control the fuel/air mixture by monitoring the exhaust oxygen content. To test if your Lambda sensor is working correctly, go to a (MOT type) garage with emission measuring equipment. Pesuade them for a fiver to test your exhaust emission, look at the O2 figure - should be 1.000 plus or minus a bit. No point in changing it if its working, IIRC costs around

So don't I get my parcel? :(

Cut the red wire...wait.....NO!...:(.....too late! :(

Try fixing one of those old corrugated steel dustbins. Should make it go like stink. :(

Really?Are you sure? Never heard of aircon giving a problem on the Galaxy.... :blink: Pass the brandy ol man..... :P

The only antifreeze available from VAG (VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda) outlets nowadays is G12+. It is fully compatible with older spec VW engines G11 and G12. It is pink, but can be mixed safely with the green G11. Don't use "universal" antifreeze such as that available from Halfords!!