seatkid

How much gas has been filled? - too much or too little and it won't work. The pressure switch is a 3 way device. Check printouts and the label in your engine bay.

How much gas did they put it? I notice Kwikfit use the quantity that their a/c machine looks up in its database, the one I saw didnt have dual aircon quantities which needs 1350g as opposed to the standard 950g. Check the paperwork, the machine prints it out and the kwikfit report should say.

:D EEK! Don't spray WD40 on your belts!!!! It will make them slip and deteriorate rapidly. Don't know what this "black wheel" is you refer to.....sounds like air con clutch.....NO WD40 PLEASE!! None of this has anything to do with your brake vacuum which is generated by the inlet manifold.

Certainly a possibility......pull top and bottom hoses, you might want to catch that coolant. fill radiator through top while blocking the bottom exit, then release the bottom exit and see how fast it comes out, it should come out in a gush. Use only G12plus antifreeze BTW......

Normally the bottom hose will be at best warm/cool, only a small percentage of radiator capacity is required to cool the engine unless it is on full load. However, if you run without the thermostat installed, most of the coolant will flow through the radiator and the radiator will be uniformly warm - though this temperature will be much lower than the correct operating temperature.

Hey, check the connection/wiring to the temperature sensor is ok - you may have disturbed something when you changed that pipe, giving a false instrument reading. Other thing is to remove the battery lead for a couple of minutes (check radio code first!) and when you reconnect, the instruments etc will recalibrate on inital start. It might save the effort of a wasted afternoon..... :rolleyes:

Good idea - if it still overheats - check the radiator matrix near the bottom hose - its thats cool then radiator may be blocked.

Resurrecting this thread as I'm in the market for a new small car (maybe the new Fabia or the new Corsa diesel ) Bewildering choice of brokers on www.savemoneyoncars.co.uk but some require

The 2.3 engine CC is vacuum operated - very common for the vacuum piping to have leaks but usually the CC is the first to go AWOL. Vacuum leaks and faulty/leaking brake servos are common Galaxy faults. CC can be cancelled by stalk, clutch or brake. Brake switch (another common problem) maybe faulty or badly adjusted as the lightest touch on brake or clutch should cancel CC. Hard pedal is due to loss of brake vacuum.

I think you bust the engine. When the oil light flashed, you had no oil pressure......result = metal to metal contact somewhere (e.g. piston/bore)....causing wear and/or extreme localised thermal stress (and warping). Only a matter of time before complete failure of the part affected. The old Tdi engine runs very cool, and when idling hardly needs a radiator at all.

Get an original thermostat from dealer - I always have had problems with engines running too hot with non original thermostats. The best way to flush the radiator is to take it off completely and using a garden hose and much waving about etc of the radiator core in your back garden......or treat yourself to a new radiator at about

I find adding a couple of mugfuls of sawdust quieten things considerably, also definitely has an effect on economy/engine wear.......... :rolleyes:

Latest figures below - I reset the trip computer about 3 weeks ago - this period has been about 50% around town, hence the low average mph. Car has done 75000 miles so is fully run in - I didnt start getting these sort of figures until after it did 50000 miles. Technique is all important - plan ahead - freewheel (not always the best technique) - avoid braking (lost energy) - accelerate confidently (not too slow) and don't hang on in intermediate gears. Stick to the speed limit and you're halfway there... B) Oh.......and use decent fuel........e.g. Shell, I found mpg using our local Tesco's is s***e, though the local Sainsbury's was better.

IIRC, Remote is not part of the ECU, its a circuit board in the multilevel fuse thingy under the drivers dash. See TIS for more info.

You have to work your way through the electrics a step at a time. I have no idea about Fiesta electrics - nor am I interested enough to look it up on the TIS. But this procedure should apply to any modern car.... No.1 Put a voltmeter on your battery - and check the voltage doesnt dive when you try to start. This is a battery check. No.2 Put the negative lead of the meter on a ground remote from the battery - maybe the engine block - and repeat the test - this will tell you if the earth strapping is the culprit. (Repeat to test the positive straps to the battery) No.3 Put the meter "further away" from the battery - check the circuit diagram (TIS) - e.g. after one of the "Main" fuses and repeat. If everything seems all right at this point then I'm inclined to seek out the ECU and check you didnt "flood" this. A small amount of water inside this can render it U/S (while wet) and because of the case it may take many days to dry out. So open it up and inspect/dry it out. It will be something silly - don't get up tight.

two things come to mind Timing has slipped - none of the pulleys are keyed and rely on being tightly bolted up - IIRC there are a number of posts regarding the bottom pulley slipping. or Petrol in diesel

I'll see your stake and raise you a basic problem in spelling. It makes no difference to me if you believe me or not. 56 mpg over the last 500 miles. My Skoda Fabia 1.2 doesnt manage much more than 44mpg however

oh well if he can't be bothered to put information about his car in his post or signature, don't expect me to be an uncover detective...... :lol:

Could be the bomb that Bruce Willis put under the car, or it might be the metering pump for the aux/booster heater, although this usually ticks at about once per sec during the heater firing up period. (But sureley its not that cold at this time of the year) IIRC there is an old TBN about some wiring problem between ECU and booster heater which causes "ticks"...look it up on the Ford TIS or try a search....

Remove the offside front indicator housing (one screw), its behind/under that.

Just guessing.... 00283 - Front Left ABS Wheel Speed Sensor (G47) 35-10 - - - Intermittent This is what is giving the grinding/vibration - the ABS is being triggered by a dicky signal from the sensor. Check the connector to ABS sensor in the wheel arch - unplug/clean replug. Also clean up the area where the ABS ring /sensor is on the hub (mud/debris). Try a forum search for ABS problems which go into more detail. 01165 - Throttle Body Control Module (J338) 20-10 - Malfunction in Basic Setting - Intermittent This is what is causing the abrupt gear change - again likely a dirty connector - find the thottle body position sensor and clean the connector. Basically the Auto box ECU is thinking the throttle is being floored occasionaly when its not. Could also be caused by a loom/connector problem to the autobox, which a number of people have reported. Again try a forum search. First of all the car passes the MOT, only advice was some play in track rod ends Funny... I was told on 2 seperate occasions by 2 seperate garages that "any play in a steering joint is an MOT failure"!

...wrong.....try again......

Blue smoke on start up - leak on rocker cover gasket - been there....done that..(passat)....valve stems worn probably due lack of oil changes. The leak will come back, its due to pressure in the crankcase building up from the valve guide wear. Best to get someone to follow you and observe the exhaust on the overrun and subsequent pickup - thats when the blue smoke will be obvious (you'll be too busy negoiting the roundabout to see it). Depending on the severity, it may already be down to 1 litre of oil per 200 miles. Ask him, "Honestly how much oil does it use? And can I have my money back if its more than 1 litre per 1000 miles? (In writing)"

Hi everybody! Glad to see everyone is pontificating profoundly about their theories.... :16: Anyway, I can cheerfully state that my average fuel consumption has been over 52 mpg for the last 8000 miles. I can extract up to 63 mpg on a long run, but this depends on road, traffic and weather conditions. One day, I may enlighten you all about driving ECOnomically, but not today... :D