Smilge

Thanks to Tim and Sparky for that discussion .... So the conclusion is that for a Galaxy to pass an MOT, it must have a reinforced tyre (RF or XL) which must have a minimum load rating of 95? If this is the case then that's cleared that up in my own mind thanks.

Looks quite smart ... I think I'll buy an Smax just to join the club!

:) glad you fixed it m8, could see that turning into a nightmare! Strouf, by placing a bulb in the fuseholder was just an indication that the circuit was drawing more than 3 amps which would have blown the fuse. By disconnecting various plugs in the circuit, you isolate the short to earth or short to another wire. If the light goes out, the short must be forward of the disconnected plug or unit.

Sorry mate this is where I need the TIS disc to be able to help .... any chance you can post the diagrams you are looking at so I can have a look now?

:P Hi Spengelly ... although I own a diesel I found your post very interesting and expect quite a few people will find this post useful. Your ingenuity in fixing the aux air pump was brilliant and has obviously saved you a fair bit of dosh. Well done m8

Your middle one looks really impressed Greg :D

to pick his

with a mouthful

Yeh I would suggest that to ... uses an old pre engaged type starter which throws the bendix toothed gear into the flywheel when you turn the ignition. Whats happening to yours is the toothed gear is sticking and not fully engaging the flywheel. Like Nik said, if you clean the spiral track the bendix gear it will run free. I wouldn't grease it though as this tends to attract all the crap and you end up in the same boat. Normally a light oil will do the trick. You will need to remove the starter to be able to access the gear and track. Good luck

Pretty straight forward this Gooner .... switch connected ...fuse blows switch removed .... fuse OK but cluster lamps not working You have a short somewhere .... have you got a meter that can measure resistance? You can then find which pins to measure and check that the track resistance does not read 0Ω during movement of the pot. This would indicate a short. Without a wiring diagram for the Gal I cant tell you where to go next but I would tend to isolate the next stage of the circuit by disconnecting a plug and then con checking pin to pin to make sure there were no shorts. I'm waiting for a TIS disc of MO4 and hopefully there should be some wiring diagrams on that. Hope this helps a little Gooner Bleeno

Hey that was a good deal Suzuki, so the Ebay 'want it now' can work?

I think you'll find there are late Mk1's which are the early Mk 2's and the early Mk2's preceding the later Mk2's were in fact the prefacelifted Mk2's......so there! :ph34r:

Do you want a swift kick in the clutch!? :o

Well done Van and good luck to you dipso :ph34r:

steaming in the

Gooner likes a hot curry! What he really means is that he likes an Edwina Currie straight after John's finished

:( Hey Vanbursta ... I had a right giggle at your photo... Had to do the same on a Montego estate that needed the Heater fan replacing. So I went up the local scrappy and ripped one out of another Montego. The problem was the guy behind the counter said " a tenner mate, and why didn't you just rip the whole heater box out, cos that would have cost the same and you wouldn't have been here all day". "Oh thanks mate". Anyway, got home, took yet another day to put it all back together and guess what?! IT still didn't work!!!! It turned out to be the thermistor mounted on top of the heater assembly. A ten minute job! :( :(

the thing with these engines is, they are UNDERTUNED.. this is because there has to be a balance throughout the world.. ie if you tune a car for its max potential when you have a climate like the uk then it may fail in hotter or colder climates.. Its nothing to do with the climates in different countries ...its to do with the standard of fuel supplied in each country! The majority of european cars have their ECU's mapped so they will run optimally on a generic standard of fuel. Here in the UK we lucky in the fact the quality of fuel you buy here is excellent. All you have done is optimised the performance of your car to run here on UK fuel. Just wait til you drive on the continent and try some of the French fuel. It'll run like a bag of spanners Oh, and temperature effects air density, thats why the car runs better in cold damp conditions

To be honest I wouldn't know about overfilling the oil in the 1.8 Zetec.... the cars i've owned do not not start rattling if you overfill the oil only if there is no oil in them. Like myself and Anadin said, either take it back and express your worry about the car without being unpleasant and although the guy originally told you that " it takes time for the oil too get around the engine", just say you have a mate who's got the same type of car with a similar mileage and his doesn't rattle on start up. Stick to your guns m8 and if they'e reasonable they should do something about it. After that and still no joy ..... time to write letters. Keep in touch m8

:( Had a Fender Jazz once .... sold it and bought a Hohner Precision copy ....You're right about the cheapies these days. Played ten times better than the Jazz.

Hiya Bassman .... is your nickname "as in fish" or "as in guitar"? Your problems should be sorted by our resident experts .... I'm pretty good with clutches but not much else :D My input (bearing in mind I'm not the expert on here): 1. Brake servo problem? ..... really the only thing that can give "pressure" feedback to the pedal. 2. Somehow the fuel might be evaporating due to the the added heat - (old sierra had a similar problem due to split weber carb to inlet manifold spacer/heat insulator so fuel was avaporating in the float chamber) Hope this helps and welcome to the forum :D

:D WOMEN !!!!! fancy a hand my love?

Sung to the tune of 'Please Release Me' by Tom Jones: Please, release me, let me go.... Cos' I don't crunch you, any more... To miss first gear would be a sin... Release me, and let third gear slide in... :D What a star you are El Dingo !!!! :D :D :D

James ...I wouldn't worry about it too much. I've had quite a few cars that have had an annoying rattle on start up, particularly a Rover 216, like Anadin mentioned. I doubt it would be piston slap with the mileage you stated as this usually only occurs with high mileage engines or if they've had the b*****ks revved out of them. Even so, if it was piston slap there's not much you can do apart from have oversized piston rings fitted along with a re-bore. What I would do (with any engine from cold) is to short gear change and limit the revs until the engine is warm, change the oil regularly and keep an eye out for blue smoke from the exhaust. If you're still not happy .... take it back and ask for a compression test on each cylinder with the engine cold. This will highlight any problems. Regards Chris

Like it! I prefer Burgers anyway