Smilge

;) Might be the clutch ........... :angry:

I would agree with most that it sounds as though the clutch is slipping. When you change into a higher gear it puts the engine under more load when the `slipping` is more noticeable, particularly when going uphill. Keep a close eye on the rev counter Maz .... when the revs increase with no apparent change in accelerator position, change up a gear providing the road conditions allow to see if the revs settle down to normal. I'll be interested to hear how you get on. Chris

The towball heights are totally different Gordon. I met a guy on holiday who had a Mk 1 and asked to measure the height of mine. His was something like 16" and mine 18". Although both were Witter towbars mine was the correct height for towing his van....mmmmm??? He did mention though that a newer Witter bar addressed this problem and that he would still be able to fit it to his Mk 1 because the rear chassis attachment points were exactly the same . Hope this helps Chris

Hey jk .... I tried the Beta a few months back ... a complete mess! I couldn't do anything with it. I'll try the latest version then and hopefully no bugs this time.

It's not the clutch thrust bearing making the whirring noise, is it gents? A good check to see if it is Maz is to leave the car out of gear, engine running with the handbrake on. Now depress the clutch pedal and see if the noise disappears. If it does, then that's a good sign the thrust bearing is dry or possibly on its way out. Just a thought ........ :D

Got the tickets and still on for me Paul Chris

:ph34r: Happy Birthday for yesterday Maz! Here's a little present: One hunky Australian Centrefold Hope you had a good day

Although I have a diesel HPE, that was fantastic! In future if I do any work on mine I'll do the same. Funny old thing though....... Robert is my Mothers brother's name! :ph34r:

I dunno ..... It looks too much like a Zafira for my liking .....

Andy .... I had the same thing with the 1 3/4 DIN 6000CD in my Mk III Mondeo. IIRC, I had to select the RDS function by stepping through each menu and once RDS was displayed it automatically updated the time via the RDS signal. Hope this helps

Yea ... usually you have to buy a Ford CD changer and connect it to the wiring that's already been fitted to your Ka. As usual, Ford overcharge on their changers which will have a non-standard connector that will only connect to your wiring but ..... there are other CD changers out there that will fit using an adapter plug and are much cheaper. The only problem I can foresee is the problem of controlling it from your existing player. My Mondeo was easy as I fitted a CD changer to a Ford 6000CD head unit which also controlled the changer. I'm sure there are other people who have done exactly what you are after so hopefully you will get the exact answer you are after. Hope this helps Chris

I know what it is ...... If it's a Mk1 or Mk 2 Mondeo theres an NRV (non return valve) in the pipeline just after the washer bottle(Never had a problem with the Mk3 so never checked to see if it had an NRV). It's a ballbearing type where the solidified screen wash tends to stop the ball from moving when the pressure builds up. If you take the NRV out you can clean it up and free the ball. The idea of the NRV is to prevent the fluid running back into the bottle enabling instant spray when you press the button.

You're wrong ... tried that

:blink: Oooh it's one of them hey? ..... I assume, like Neil said, that it has an integral motor / drum and the drum load is taken up by the bearings within the motor. Is the whole drum supported by shock absorbers connected to the base of the chassis because they have a tendency to break when the machine is overloaded with washing? With the drum moving around and bouncing off the inside of the machine .... seen that a few times on Hotpoints. Any use?

MO4 ...... Without looking at it, sounds like the bearings have gone in the drum. I've fixed a few in my time and never known the drum nut to come undone. I think our machine is a bit like yours; more on than its off! Hope it is the nut that's come loose and not the bearings. Good luck

Just a quick tip When I had my Mk III Mondeo I bought a new set of Ford 7 spoke alloy wheels for it. Anyway my eldest lad bought me the Holts alloy wheel cleaning kit for my birthday which contains a mild acid to clean the brake dust and tar off, a polish and a spray on laquer. I was amazed at the results and do the same for the Gal wheels. You won't use anything else once you've tried it. ;)

My sons Cleo had a similar problem .... took a while to sort it too. In the end dismantled front suspension and removed both shocks. I thought it was the plastic trim inside the car but strangely transfers the grinding noise through the steering wheel.

Sounds like both the front shock absorber top bushes want a bit of grease.

whilst I agree in general ;) - I have to say that our tdi always starts straight away - difficult to describe but it catches as soon as the key is turned ;) , the only time it didn't was when the battery had been run flat by te dvd player being left on overnight- then it was just 'click'. Connected to our escort with leads and it started as tye key was turned :D I was talking about physically pushing the car to get it started ...I dont think a high compression diesel would bump start antway mate so you're right with just a click :D

I would agree with Master cylinder seals ... had a problem with the rear of the two seals on a Mk 1 Mondeo master cylinder which also scared the wife. I actually found a small split allowing brake pressure to leak back into the system and not to the calipers as expected. Worth getting it checked by the dealers ..... shouldn't do that on a year old car!

Supposing the reason for the car not starting is a dead battery,why bump starting it would make any difference than turning the engine with the starter motor? In both cases the engine will turn for a couple of secs and then start. Am I missing something here ? See what you're saying, but very rare for a car to start first push. By using the battery to turn the engine drains what little life is left in it whereas with a donor battery, you hopefully won't drain that to the same extent as the dead one ..... agreed?

Try this site Greg ...... worked for me :lol: http://www.dvdcodes.net/ or even better ... http://www.dvdcodes.net/prods/instructions/SonyDav.php

:lol: I think the overall 'gist' of this post is we all need to wright propper england so that everybodie can understandifole the hantalobes of the sichoo!

I've just been reading through the various posts on how various people diagnose battery faults. From my own experience I check a battery using the following methods. Some people may disagree and have a lot more experience than I have but I think we can pool information and get a moderator to pin an agreed 'checklist' on how to check your battery, espiecally before the winter months. Here are my suggestions: 1. If you have problems with starting due to a discharged battery, to get going you will need a 'jump' start. To bump start a car (push and engage a gear with ignition turned on) is a NO NO as the Catalytic converter will be damaged by neat fuel entering. 2. Measuring the voltage with nothing switched on should indicate no less than 11.8V if the battery is ok. 3. Once the engine is running, the voltage should be around 13.8V indicating that the alternator is charging the battery. If the indication shows less than 13V I would suspect the alternator is at fault. This is usually confirmed by a dim charging lamp indication on the instrument panel. ( I have had problems where the charging voltage is around 12V with no indication). If this the case, there are plenty of companies who can change either the diode pack or the brushes at a fraction of the cost of a reconditioned or new alternator. 4. Even though the voltage readings are OK the battery may still be U/S. You will need to load test the battery by switching everything on. If you can remove the caps for each battery cell, you can look for air bubbles that appear as the cells discharge. If you see no bubbles after a couple of minutes from 1 or more cells, those cells are U/S. (I had a problem where the car would start one week and the following week, dead as a dodo. This turned out to be a couple of dead cells that were internally 'shorted') 5. Do not try and charge a dead battery using the cars charging circuit - use a proper battery charger with the battery removed from the car ensuring adequate ventilation. 6. When jump starting a car always connect the 'positive to positive' leads first and connect the negative lead from 'chassis to chassis' NOT 'negative to negative' as this may damage the ECU. I hope you find this useful and people may like to add info to my comments .... feel free Happy and safe winter motoring Chris

:D :D :) Well I'm chuffed to bits! This morning my booster heater fired up with NO smoke whatsoever and just to make sure it had started, burnt my fingers on the exhaust! :P