Smilge

McQ ......... sounds like you're doing the right thing with the WD40. The plug socket, extension bar and ratchet handle with the trolley jack handle over the ratchet handle is my way of getting them out if they're seized in. What I do is to tighten slightly and then untighten them in one swift movement. Hasn't failed yet.

You're right there Mum! ...... From my experience of owning a Galaxy and lucky enough to have a serviceable aux heater .... It shouldn't smoke! It never failed to start up and even on the coldest mornings very little steam came from the exhaust. Lucky I guess.

One of my colleagues mentioned this yesterday ...what do you think? http://www.doogle.org/

Welcome from me too TChan ...... Nice to have some one from Hong kong to chat to. I think Bigkev is right but I think we can excuse you for nearly calling your wife a piggy ...... it's good when you can nearly get away with it by just using a comma (,) My wifes right, old cow. :blink:

Welcome Pud .............. ooorrrrre ya nach the nelllie nooo ..... on noch the frorlen neevelin noo!!!! :blink:

Nice one Ady ......... so what speakers is the big fat bloke in a red coat towed by females all over the world getting you? ...... :(

Hi Stevie and welcome to the forum .............. I know nuffin as well but I'm male ......... tut :blink:

And grown women still believe in Santa ........ figures

Piston slap is a loud rattle when you first start it .... I reckon you're talking top end and possibly worn lifters. Does she burn oil? ..... get someone to follow you and witness when or if it does.

Welcome Skip ........ tut tut tut tut ....... what was that? ........ the air con compressor is about to fail on my Gal? ...... It's ok Skip ...I got rid of it last month ......

mmmmmm ... mmmmmmm ..... probably not so I'll shut up now ........ lol

Your Gal sounds like its in Limp home mode. What you can do is to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and see if the ECU resets the current hard latched fault codes. Remember you'll need the Radio code and you'll have to follow the ECU learn mode instructions in the Manual. If the running is still poor then you might want to have a read of this: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=5920

Funny you say that Rusty .. I thought I had a problem with mine when I first bought it. No the rear wiper doesn't operate automatically as it does in the "far superior" Mondeo I've just bought ...hee hee.

Blimey the population in Staffs has doubled in a matter of minutes ...... lovely place! :lol: Hi Richard

Your very welcome Dave ...... easy when you've done a couple and I'm glad you've sorted the CD error 3 problem out. Lovely car by the way!

I'm not one for trying womens perfume on so I wouldn't know ..... -_- Welcome Stu ...... :lol:

You should know Kev ...you're nearly on the same Latitude ...lol. Moby ......... Is the tank level changing at all? If you did have a pressure leak then the car would overheat and you mentioned that the temp guage was fine. Sounds like you have an air lock somewhere and really needs a professional to use a pressure rig to get rid of it. Is the thermostat ok? Could be stuck open ....

Hee Hee Nicky ....... them blue flames were probably sparks ....lol ..... like I said ...... external combustion engine! Glad to hear you're getting it sorted.

Hi Peter ....... does it misfire when it's idling or only when the engine's under load? If it does misfire when it's idling, one way of checking which pack/lead is at fault is to disconnect and reconnect each lead from the spark plug in turn and listen to see if the engine running improves. When you disconnect the faulty lead and the engine appears to run smoother, even though its only running on 3, you have either a U/S lead, plug or if it appears to improve on disconnecting 2 adjacent plugs then it could be the coil pack. That's the old way of doing it anyway ...but be careful not to earth the HT lead through yourself ... it hurts!

One check you can do, with this cheapo multimeter as Kev suggests, is to measure the DC Voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running. You should get a reading of between 13.8 and 14.4V. Anything less than 13V and you're looking at a new alternator or wiring. This problem usually shows up on the dash as a "charging" warning light on and can be confirmed using the multimeter. How long have you had the battery and what type is it? If it's a maintenance free type then if it has gone totally "flat" then you may as well throw it. Also, certain batteries (Ca) require a special to type charger and so your Halfords charger is really not up to the job. Hope this helps.

Hi dave ..... have PM'd you. I reckon Mumof4 could be right on this one Dave. I haven't actually done one of these as I had the MFD version in mine and that's a different kettle of fish altogether.

This sounds like a typical head gasket problem and the failure to start is caused by one or more of the bores filling with water. This causes "hydraulicking" preventing one or more pistons from moving. I had the same problem with my sons Freelander which kept cracking starter motor cases due to the engine wanting to turn in the opposite direction. This was the head gasket. I'm wondering .... with you trying to pull-start it .... have you done anymore damage? Compression test and then head off is what I'm thinking ......... anyone else?

Nicky ...sounds like you've got one of them new external combustion engines. Blue flames and smoke? I assume this was coming from under the engine? I tell you what would be useful ..... more specific car details.

Well, how was everyones weekend? ...... Mine was crap ...... All I wanted to do was to use me new Spear and Jackson number 3 with the double tempered blade but the precipitation was about 2.39% above average for this time of year so i spent most of it hoovering the loft out. ........ the wife told me I was the most boring man in the world! :angry2:

I make tyres for a living....................Horrible job! You should try becoming a Technical Author matey! ......... excellent explanation!