Smilge

Not sad at all mate ...... see if you can get hold of a Ford TIS disc ..... same as a Haynes really and very useful.

Glad you got it sorted Andrew ....... :lol:

Hi Lesley As far as the oil's concerned it will go black very quickly compared with a petrol engine. I had a very similar experience with a Mondeo I bought and the Master tech informed me that they service the car before they MOT it and that involves an emissions test where the engine is run until it warms up so they get an accurate reading. He said that even in this short time the engine oil will have gone black due to soot produced by the diesel engine and is quite normal; another reason for changing the oil more periodically on a diesel. Ask them to reset the service interval indicator as you'll probably find this was an oversight. Another thing I would ask is does the warranty cover the air conditioning and if you can, purchase a years warranty as the Galaxy is generally quite expensive to repair. Enjoy your new car.

So why were they in a sauna? .............

Epicenter was Market Rasen so not far from you Mum.

This may help you;

If not as Mary suggested, try around the area slightly below your right knee if you were sat in the drivers seat.

The best way to check the front suspension joints is to jack up one front side at a time to raise a front wheel off the ground. Get someone to help you check it out, and basically with a torch, look at the suspension travel as your mate "levers" the bottom of the wheel straight up and down using a crowbar or something similiar. There should be a little bit of resistance obviously from the spring/shock but also from balljoints and other suspension components. Basically, you are looking for excessive play. Next, have your mate hold the wheel with one hand at the 12 o'clock position and the other at the 6 o'clock position. Have them rock the wheel back and fourth while you look for play. This is checking the upper and lower balljoints. If there is excessive play at either the top or bottom then one of the balljoints is worn out. Lastly, have your mate hold the wheel with one hand at the 9 o'clock position and the other at the 3 o'clock position (don't forget to lock the steering by removing the ignition key and moving the steering wheel until it locks). Have them rock the wheel back and fourth while you look for play, this is to check the steering components, again look for excessive play. Let the jack down and repeat for the other side.

I think you answered your own question there. A wobble through the steering wheel is usually worn suspension joints, steering rack and possibly tyres. With warped brake discs, yes you may feel a slight vibration through the steering wheel but the main symptom is feeling the brake pedal vibrate or pulsate depending on how warped the discs are. First of all I would check the condition of the tyres and more importantly their pressures and then looking at the suspension.

Enjoy your trip Bigj ....... 737 hey? ..... I hope Boeing have sorted out their fuel transfer problems out ........ :o

Happy Birthday from me matey

Yep works for me ....goody goody!

Hi Zorgman ..... from my limited experience with this and looking at your fault codes I would tend to ignore the intermittent failures and concentrate on the N75 .... Boost Control Solenoid. What type of noise are you talking about? As there are three vacuum pipes connected to it, I would start by checking for leaks around those pipes. One of them goes off to a filter so it may worth checking the filter and I know one of the others goes off to the VNT diaphragm. I can't remember where the other went to ...... another solenoid I think. N75 valve about

Right Ady ... there's nowt wrong with the speakers you fitted as I can vouch for them and I'm pretty fussy when it comes to sound and they gave the best clarity for the money you pay for them. The head unit you mention (Scala) is made by Grundig on the cheap to not only Seat but also VW and they are an average type unit that are made to suit everyone. Personally, I would ditch it and go for a more up-market head unit that use FET's (Field Effect Transistors) as part of the amplification stages. You can always check to see if the HU is compatible with your CD changer or even buy one of the many available adapter leads. Go for it mate.

You could always try this site http://vwnavi.com/forums/

13.4 is OK Steve ... yes it should be around 13.8 to 14.4 but you have enough there to trickle charge the battery. What I would do is to remove the battery and start to inspect all the battery wiring connections for corrosion and heat damage. The main earth needs to be cleaned at both ends. Like Mum said, if you have started to get the problem again then its time to replace the cables.

Graham .... here are my answers to some of your questions but hopefully someone else will corrrect me if I'm wrong. 1. Why is the auxillary heater working even though it's been switched off at Fords? I didn't think you could switch it off using VAG-COM only clear the "lockout" caused by 5 flameout faults. 2. Why is my auxillary heater still pumping out white smoke, even though I've changed the glow plug? Your heater is probably burning off the residual unburnt diesel that is still within the combustion chamber. 3. As a get out of jail free card, can I just unplug the multi-plug that goes into the auxillary heater to stop the smoke? Yes but why not see if the smoking improves with use. 4. Is there any way of testing these glow plugs? I put a tester across the old one, expecting it to be 'open circuit' - but it's not. Could it be there was nothing up with the glow plug, and the fault lies elsewhere? Although the glow plug is showing resistance, they physically wear down from the combustion and not as much of the red hot tip is exposed to the fuel/air mix so not all the fuel is burnt. Although the resistance you measured should be relatively high, did you compare the measurements with the new one? Another problem could be the metering pump. I would bypass the temp sensor and get the thing to run for as long as it takes to clear the unburnt fuel and hopefully this should stop the smoke.

Welcome from me Chrissy and I hope you enjoy your stay. I had a Visteon 8000M DVD player fitted as part of the Journey Pack 2 which sat under the A/V controller in between the rear of the two front seats in a different centre console from the standard fit. What you need to do is to do is to find out whether your existing controller will accept a DVD and see if you can get hold of an 8000M or something else that will fit without too many problems. Perhaps others on here that have done a similar conversion may be able to help you more. Good Luck

Ady ...sounds like the single screw that holds it in is missing. Open another door and you'll see where the screw is located.

Gregers ...Rustys right. With the engine at idle you won't generate enough heat and what heat you had in the system was used up by heating the interior. I was surprised when I first bought mine and days of starting the car and waiting for it to warm up are gone. Most diesel car manuals actually state that running at idle to warm the interior is a misnomer and can even damage the engine.

Gregers Heres the link for the service schedules so they should give you an idea of what you'll need. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...amp;#entry75396 All the best Chris

mjohnh .... sounds like you need to wait for the boiler to get up to the right pressure before setting off. What type coal are you using? ...... :lol: Sorry mate .. couldn't resist that but it sounds as though the engine's not breathing properly under load (if it's the sound I'm thinking of). Does it hesitate when the noise occurs? Things that may effect the injection demand values ..... MAF, TMAP sensor, Throttle position sensor, injection timing. Another thing to consider is the EGR valve. How many miles has it done and has anything been done to the car recently?

Hi Tom ...... agree with you about the firmware updates and I have heard of this problem with the 2.0 TDCi engines fitted to the Mondeo. I seem to remember it was something to do with the Injection pump timing. As it is only six months old I would take it to a dealer as it will still be under warranty.

Sounds reasonable Ade ....... I've been with Direct Line and fortunately when you've been with them a lot of years you can haggle after a search. Believe it or not my Mondeo is around