chromedome

I agree, aux belt tensioner. Had the same symptoms on mine even with new belt.

Pleased it worked OK. Don't tell the manufacturers about it or they'll slap a part number on it, call it a specialist tool and charge an arm and a leg for it. :lol:

You could try disconnecting your battery for about 10 seconds and see if it resets. Don't forget to find your radio code first.

I've used that net curtain wire in the past. It's flexible but robust enough to clear the blockage. You can normally buy it from your local DIY store or curtain outlet. Hope this helps.

Had a look at the TIS. Dash illumination appears to be fed by Fuse28 (3Amp) in the central fuse box. The TIS details tests to check for power at the light switch, etc. Good luck with the TIS when you get it, wiring diagrams are a nightmare.

Sounds like the two metal discs chattering. I sat there tonight switching between auto and econ, for ages, and all I got was the normal click. When the garage checked for leaks, the coolant apparently squirted out all around the compresser until they changed the "o" rings. So I'm wondering if the two discs have got contaminated with something which sometimes stops them working correctly. I'll keep investigating. Thanks for the replies anyway.

Have you tried removing the sensor module and leaving it in the airing cupboard for a couple of days to dry out. This has worked for some on the forum.

The belt and tensioner have recently been replaced. The a/c has just been fixed, leaking "o" rings on the compressor. It's only been doing it since the a/c fix and I can feel the compressor kicking in and out when I drive the car, quite noticable. Never used to do it before. Could it be that the a/c has been overfilled?

Sometimes when I start the car and the a/c cuts in, I get a loud grating sound which I think comes from the compressor. The compressor cuts in and out normally whilst the engine is running with no noise. Any ideas? Could in be the clutch mechanism? Can you clean it and what with? Thanks for any replies.

It is indeed called the Auxilliary Water Pump. Mine eventually stopped, now replaced and everything is back to normal.

Thanks for the reply, couldn't find it on the TIS. Yes it's gone noisy, knocking sound which stops and starts as you move the pump around. Had to go now, got to go Carlisle (from Peterborough) on Friday :blink:

Could someone tell me the correct name for the water pump that runs after the engine is switched off. Prevents engine hot spots. Mines knackered and I want to make sure I tell the Ford garage exactly what it's called before they change it. Thanks

Sorry, didn't know that. I thought it applied to all.

Make sure that when you push the caliper pistons back you push the excess fluid out of the bleed nipple. Don't force the fluid back through the system or you can screw up the ABS with contaminated fluid. :) You'll also need a piston retraction tool as the pistons rotate inwards, not a straight push back in operation. This has been covered many times.

Definately sounds like warped discs, very common on the Galaxy I'm afraid.

As far as I know, to check the oil level you need a diagnostics machine to make sure the fluid is at the correct temperature before checking the level.

Sounds like the auxilliary drive belt tensioner has gone. I think they cost around

I have a 2.3 auto and I average about 25mpg urban with the a/c on.

It could be that the system needs re-gassing. Have it checked for leaks and get it re-gassed.

Dealer will probably charge you

Are you sure you're looking at the abs light. If it's in the middle and is orange in colour then you are probably looking at the bulb test function. Goes out when you press the brake pedal if all bulbs are working.

I get no "squishing" from mine. Sounds like a warranty job to me :angry:

I agree with the descriptions given. Been out on a good old country road today and I always thought it was my mudflaps scraping on the ground. Since the new drop links....... nothing.

I had this problem on my other 2.3. Turned out to be the electronic gearbox controller. You could try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to see if it resets.

I had the symptoms you're describing on my Zetec. Could be any number of things, mine was the condenser, changed under warranty and as yours is a 2002 you might get yours sorted under the three year warranty. Just had my current Galaxy a/c fixed. Is was a leak where the pipes connect to the compressor, needed new "O" rings.