El Dingo

Personally I have always changed the oil twice a year regardless. Our Galaxy does about 8,000 miles a year. Oil is getting better and better - good oils should easily last the year or longer - but for the sake of 'a few quid' I do oil and filter twice a year. It also means I get to have a good look under the car at the same time, as it goes up on the ramps. And the cam chain gets to run in nice, clean oil!

Cool! (Oops, no pun intended...) ;)

21:55 Thursday - just me again... Boo hoo :huh:

Rats! Great phrase that... I'm in 'Chav Lite' all by myself... :blink:

I'm sorry to say (IMHO) that the way to fix them is to replace them. They are not repairable as such, and PTFE oil additives are more likely to sieze them than quieten them.

No airlock probs on 2.3 (edit) I haven't had any... :blink:

Quote: What makes materials hard is a complicated subject that has to do with internal crystal structures. These in turn are effected by heat treating or mechanical working. Most non-ferrous metals can only be hardened by "work hardening", hammering, rolling, bending. But they can be softened by "annealing" which is heating to a red heat and then cooling quickly (opposite to steel, see below). Unquote: :blink: Yep, I'll go back to school - my machine annealed copper. I forgot about steel.... Hmmm copper brake discs... is that what coppaslip is for???

Back to school time for you my boy. heat and quench will harden metal (with a couple of exceptions) heat and slow cool will anneal. Regards - JB Really? Then my wire annealing machine didn't work? Hmmm. :blink: So, case hardening, involving heating and slow colling in carbon is annealing, is it? :P

Well he isn't going to fit a heater matrix either... And you can boil a stat to death y'know.

Milk Tray by day.... fright by night.

The nutty one was the YR5. That was before reed valves... :blink:

As a test, why not leave the stat out, re-fill with water and see if the overheating has gone away...

Maybe a glass adhesive?

My advice - consult a Feng Shui specialist. Your Galaxy will have a 'earth-spin-wise' or anti-earth-spin-wise' preference. You can also check this by having the car four-wheel laser aligned. Look for tracking, camber and caster more positive one way or the other. Go around the M25 in the opposite rotation for best results!

I had a BSA too (a B25). Terrible electrics, dropped barrel liner, dropped valve guides, regular big end failure, gearbox selector spring failure, continuous oil leaks (which lubricated the footrest tapers, so the footrests rotated!), terrible brakes (single leading shoe drum). On the plus side, great noise from the single cylinder, great handling (I could easily trounce Suzuki GT's and Honda CB's around the twisty bits, only having trouble with Yamaha RD's). Our Galaxy's been fine so far - apart from the auxilliary water pump... :D

lovely, and very likely true. :P

Silt somewhere in the system (no inhibitor, remember) has blocked the bottom hose manifold or somewhere else in the coolant path? You could try back-flushing. If you have a total blockage like this you'll boil the coolant in the engine block, and this can lead to the explosive failure that you experienced. :blink:

Good stuff - thanks for the feedback. :D

Is the pressure cap faulty or tampered with? Any other evidence of over-pressure, like bulging hoses? I get the feeling that whatever caused this blow could cause another... :D

Resistance would only be a few ohms...

Coil secondary should not be open circuit. Are you using a multimeter or a 'continuity tester' (bulb and wire)?

White smoke is also a classic sign of turbo failure...

Yo Nena!