chrispb123456

Hi Mark the rattly rumble noise on mine was the aux drive belt tensioner, it would rattle on first starting and then gradually get less till after a few minutes completely quiet, and also disappeared when engine rev'd. While it was making the noise there would be a lot of movement of the tensioner, when its quiet there was hardly any movement, after changing tensioner no movement at all. The pulley makes a noise similar to the slipping fan belt noise (shriek) and you get the occasional alt workshop indicator again only after initial cold start, ie alt under load. Hope that helps Chris

may be the perfect opportunity to change windsreen on insurance, will rule out any leak from there!!

They usually rev them up hard if they had a high reading or if its been ticking over for a long period the actual test only requires one rev up to 4000 then release not hold it there if its borderline may need to repeat. My local MOT station has a disclaimer warning that it is owners responsibility to ensure cambelt is in good condition and oil level correct before having smoke test. If the belt has only done 10000 I would firstly check the tension on that belt as this is quite critical, if its been fitted to loose it will strip or jump teeth, if its to tight it will whine. Is the bubbles in the line from the tank or the return?

Just out of interest where did you get a new pulley from and how much was it? Mine is due for a change!! I got mine about a year ago from local starter/alternator repairer cost me

talking of pics still waiting for pics of pie?? from Mirez

Oh no another boy-racer LOL perhaps your mum will do a swop then youcan have the go fast Nissan :rolleyes: no offence

is it possible you have a 2.3 engine thats not covered by VAG-COM dont think them bulbs are take outable

Hi there Also dont forget to check coupling nose weight, you could be overloading!!

Hi there recommended tyre pressures are allways from cold I wouldn't reduce pressures but check the nose weight on the coupling you may be exceeding the recommended maximum

Hi seem to recall an Engine ECU behind the dash with vacuum pipe going to it and then a small pipe inside the unit that perishes

Hi there has the water level gone down in the bottle for what ever reason this can cause air locks in system, if the level has gone down top up and run engine with cap removed until engine is up to temperature observe the water bottle while caps removed, is booster heater and run on pump working? you say the engine is at perfect temperature what is the temperature and how long does it take to get there

Hi again good result then :( I guess the gearbox fluid pressure is greater than the cooling system, as a point of note how much was the cooler?

Hi there A couple of things I would also check is: 1. Take off air filter cover and filter in case waters been sucked into filter box. 2. The cam belt. 3. Any damage to intercooler :( ps how deep was that puddle or was the road flooded :)

Hi there and welcome you may do yourself a favour and time buy getting or borrowing a VAGCOM lead and laptop and get your fault codes read as you have a few electrical issues, water leaks into car are common, could be windscreen but look at the drains and rear washer pipe first as already suggested, could also be heater matrix leaking into car if you are loosing any coolant. ps. what year and engine is this.

Hi there I was surprised I thought the gas would need to be removed but according to the TIS manual. Removal. 1. Raise and support vehicle. 2. Disconnect the high pressure cut off switch electrical connector. 3. Remove the high-pressure cutoff switch. Discard the O ring seal. Installation. 1. Note install new high-pressure cutoff switch O ring seal Note. Coat the high-pressure cutoff switch O ring seal in clean refrigerant oil prior to installation. To install reverse the removal procedure. thats copied word for word from the manual, I would think then there is a schrader valve where the switch screws on its located in the area behind the o/s/front fog lamp you will need to remove the undersheild

The problem sounds like the engagement solenoid part of the starter, not sure if you can strip them on these starters I know you said it was a recon, was it reputable one or an ebay special personally i'd get another starter from a good supplier they tend to last longer, depends as well can you do without car on the road.

Hi there I'll think you'll be delighted to know thats your booster heater is working correctly it makes a noise like a jet engine but has nothing to do with the climate control it is completly automatic unless you have the optional independent control which would be located by the front interior light this would enable you to heat the engine and interior without running the engine (lovely for those icy mornings) if you only have the standard fit it will only operate when the engines running and will aid quick warm up of the engine and there by the interior heaters (front and back) getting hotter quicker, there is an outside air temp sensor that will allow activation below approx 10 deg c. So once the warm weather gets here you will not hear the heater again till the weather gets colder. There are a few problems that cause the booster heater to not function correctly which I wont bore you with but there is plenty of info on the subject if and when the problem arises in the FAQ section :)

Hi there have just had a look on my car the oil pressure switch has only one wire going to it there is also a brown wire attached to the front of the housing going to earth.

Hi there looking at the pictures I would say its easier from underneath

Hi and welcome to the site sarahjayne my radio is a 6000CD that has a single fuse on the back of the radio you will need a pair of removal prongs to check that one, there are several fuses in the main fuse box that cover the audio system but they also protect other items are you sure everything else is working? check these fuses number, 2, 30, 31, 32, :)

Hi if its still under guarantee take it back now if not it'll let you down again and come on whats with the three posts havn't you got the hang of this yet or is it that seaside air LOL

Hi you need to take off the undersheild cover to access the pump, you will be able to check the tension easier

He's just building up his posts ;)

Hi You shouldn't have any problems, if thats the one that you connect to a wheel for the air pressure make sure you reduce the pressure to 15 psi max, or you risk blowing the reservoir off the cylinder, also when you're finished, remove a little fluid from the reservoir as they usually leave it full to the brim. ;)