chrispb123456

hi Just to add, there are alot of small rubber hoses on the three valves hidden behind the heat sheild on the bulkhead these pipes do perish check them all carefully

Hi there the run on pump usually on bulkhead but on V6 may be on bracket on rear of cylinder head see no. 9 on picture Gives you an idea what your looking for.

Hi there rsmuppet I don't see whats so funny with your post perhaps I'm missing something here but welcome anyway. Only thing I can think of which may help is the transmission control ecu is located on the right hand inner wing panel by battery, this will be exposed to rain and vehicle washing as water can run freely under sides of bonnet, check wiring and plug there may be corrosion in the plug or dodgy wiring, I'm sure the plug/ecu has a link with engine speed control, "Mirez" will probably confirm this

Hi there Just curious how much mileage the car done in 8 years on one set of tyres :)

Hi there Welcome to the site While yo was having turbo changed do you know if they have cleaned the EGR valve? it gets clogged up with oily soot that will restrict the airflow. Take large airpipe off EGR and with the aid of a mirror look into the valve if it looks restricted with oily sooty carbon the the valve will need removing to dig out the mess, it's a very dirty job wear hand protection.

Hi there and welcome to the site. The brake servo is a sealed unit and is not repairable, there is a vacuum pipe connected to it if these pipe connections are OK them it certainly sounds like the servo is knackered and needs replacing, wouldn't recommend secondhand units either as it is quite time consuming and awkward to change. The light problem could be down to broken/bare wiring in the tailgate trunking (common fault) have you checked all your rear lights, heated screen, rear wiper etc are working properly also check for any blown or missing fuses. Unless you got the car for next to nothing I would take it back, did you get from garage or a private sale?

Hi there Some things to check. When engines hot and running do the heater pipes running through the bulkhead get hot, you may have to remove the bulkhead extension (scuttle plate) to do this. If they are cold then you either have an air lock as BJ suggested or the matrix is blocked. If they are hot then the air control doors are not working or jammed

Hi there Found these may be usefull for future reference.

Hi there Assuming you have climatronic, the air flaps are controlled by electric motors and sensors, you will need to check these with Vag-Com. How quick does the engine warm up? (90deg c) does your booster heater work?

Hi there When the belt was changed the first time was that just the belt, or the belt and pulley kit? if it was only the belt you should seriously think on changing pulleys and belt, just not worth chancing. If your really confident about doing this by tippexing and getting belt tension correct thats fine, these are quite roomy to work on once all the covers and mounting is out the way and visibility is good, but if you have any doubt get local help.

Hi there Can only assume you have disturbed fuel pump relay, while changing power relay. ps, vehicle details will help members diagnose.

I may forget to install it properly :) as on another instructions I got from different ebay seller of the identical kit they mentioned there should be something done about blue plug of climate control unit (I have read on another forum something about pin 18). Mark, did you connect/disconnect anything at this connector? It may be the problem. In original instructions from my seller there is following: - Install the cable with labelling Climatro to the climatronic. Take off the red connector from the climatronic. Disassemble the connector. Plug in the blue cable into pin 20. Reassemble the red connector. (picture 18+19+20+21) - Install the cable with labelling Climatro to the climatronic. Take off the blue and red connector. George Hi George I don't want to confuse the issue you have and as I think your kit was different from mine, but regarding pin 18 on the blue connector, on mine the original wire connected to pin 18 is cut off and taped back then a new wire from pin 18 goes to my changeover relay for the heater blower and is joined with the new wire going to the heater blower. The wire going to the empty pin 20 on the red plug also goes to the fan relay and is joined with the wire to the alarm and ebersp

It's a but late for a reply on this but as a matter of interest Ford simply don't recognise the N0552146 VX00 specified in the handbook. They do however know about wss-m2c204-a2.. which is the green stuff. They sold me a litre for just under £12 which isn''t bad considering that the Halfords 'equivalent' is £15 (use at own risk). My level was pretty low on the dipstick - well below the cold range. I made the mistake of pouring in a large wineglass of the stuff which brought it way above the hot mark. Didnt know if that would cause a problem but to be safe spent another 15 mniutes syringing it back out with a plastic tube and hypodermic (courtesy of my wife who's a nurse just in case you thought I was an addict). The lesson is that you need very little fluid to top up. This litre will last a very long time! Hi there Is that a misprint or have you wrote that number down wrong I have (NO52146 VX00) in my book, and has already been mentioned if the levels gone down you have a leak somewhere.

Hi there Has been covered before do a search. Common faults are; Heater matrix (loss of coolant) Scuttle drains blocked Air-con drain tube blocked Windscreen leaking (badly bonded screen)

Hi George I agree it is a good idea to stop the car blower fan while the system is warming up as it does consume alot of power even on lower speeds, only problem you may get is the climate control module may think there's a fault and set the display flashing the next time you start the car normally, perhaps Mark could help with what connections to switch. Chris.

Hi George I couldn't understand why you would want to disconnect the climate module, is this not the main advantage to heat the vehicle interior? or are you thinking of an option to just heat the water , ie no blower fan to save on battery usage.

Hi again Pipes only really need cleaning if they are removed to access other components. Turbo is designed to be maintenance free, if it's running OK leave it alone as it's quite involved and awkward, to remove/replace, the EGR valve could benefit with cleaning this can get clogged with oily soot which restricts the air flow. No Haynes manual made for MK2 so the TIS manual on CD is an option this is what Ford use, although it can be a bit hit & miss sometimes although it's better than nothing. Also important is the need to change oil and filters regularly. 10.000mls recommended by Ford using SAE 5W-40 for PD engines Link to ebay manuals My link

Hi BJ It's me again, Now some people and obviously the manufacturers will tell you how important it is have the correct locking tools etc but from past experience on this engine you dont need any locking tools providing the toothed pulleys are tippexed, idealy dont have pistons at TDC then there's no chance of any contact between valves and pistons should you accidently move crank or cam, always double check markings before turning engine over by hand (socket on crank) then recheck markings and belt tension before starting normally

Hi there What your describing sounds like the EGR valve (exhaust gas recirculation) as its name suggests recirculates a certain amount of burnt exhaust gas which is drawn back in to the cylinders to be burnt again, supposed to reduce emissions. The heat exchanger (turbo intercooler) cools the charged air as cool air is much denser which leads to more air being compressed before fuel is injected result more power. As to the oil deposits, there will be a certain amount of oil mist in the large air pipe/intercooler and EGR valve as some will be mist from crankcase fumes, although excess oil laying in intercooler could be leaky turbo seals or excess crankcase pressure. Having said all that if cars running OK with no loss of power or smoky exhaust leave it be, my only concern would be the oil around the intercooler area is it from the fins of the cooler or the pipe connections, if it's the fins the cooler is leaking and will need replacing. Hope thats of help to you :)

I'm pretty sure the MK2 load cover will fit the MK1 or the MK2 but the MK3 is totaly different Hi there Chances are it's sold :) check out the post date

Hi there Sounds like you still got problems with broken/shorting wiring on tailgate.

Hi BJ Long shot here and I know and i'll probably be wrong but do you not have 2 switches on your brake pedal?

Hi again I just tried mine disconnected and no turbo, so either check with Vag-Com it should show up if it's faulty, or fit a known working unit.

Hi George Sorry to hear your still having problems, have you had it tested? it may need a good charge minimum 48hrs. I can tell you that mine is the standard 72 amp/hr type 096 and touch wood has not let me down. Heater was used for 3 hrs spread over 24 hrs without an engine start in between, So to summarize your battery may be knackered or may just need a good charge, assuming alternator is charging correctly, of course having a larger battery will be more beneficial if it will fit the carrier.