Jayton

Create a free account with www.vagcat.com login and click this link http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/SHA/1998/162/52/1889933/ That's for an Automatic AAA and AMY engine (both VR6's) You can get all the part numbers you need there.

Don't forget to use vag com or a stand alone ABS cycling kit when bleeding the brakes to get the air out of the ABS pump.

The last time I gave a car of mine a John Cleese style thrashing, it said bugger you mate and the transfer case threw a wobbly :lol: No more beating cars with sticks! They have feelings too you know! :)

Is there an indication light on the lead? (mine has a blue LED) Does it light up when plugged into the car? Set the cable's port to 3, reboot WITH the cable plugged in and remove all other USB leads you may have (mouse/3G/network stick etc ) and hopefully it will rearrange the other devices that were using that port to use another port. Then connect the cable to car, start the car, start vag com and do the test on port 3.

See someone told me I would have lost power, fuel economy and boost with it cracked and hanging off the back of the engine like it was. With it plugged those might go up, but I'll just leave it connected for now until I get my stat replaced because the car only reaches 90C after 20+mins driving and being sat in traffic, on the motorway I'll never get 90, 70 is normal and 80 if I'm pushing her. Either way my limp home mode seems to be less frequent now and I gave the old girl a good thrashing earlier when I went to collect my alt pulley & aux belt.

Awesome! Do you think you'd be able to get a digital reading of the oil & water temps to be an option when flicking through the MFA? (on this and standard clusters).

The TDI badges being different colour is NOT an indication of what engine you have :) As BigKev said, it depends on what the dealer had at the time and what mood they were in and if their branch had any sort of guidelines as to what badge to fit to what power car etc. (doubtful that they would have though).

Had a look under the bonnet for the alternator part # so I could get a pulley from VW and while I was in there had a look around and noticed the EGR rubber pipe had cracked off, I pulled off the rubber bit that was still on the metal nose of the EGR and pushed the pipe back on. Would this have damaged anything ? Reduced power? Would this also have caused the carbon build-up in my engine bay? 'cos it is FULL of carbon, you can wipe your finger over anywhere and it WILL be thick with black cr*p :)

It'll only work with VAG modules, I was told you can use the ODB-II (bottom left corner) to get the generic ODB-II codes.

Right well, finally got round to doing this. I after entering 08 meas. blocks, and putting in 006 and clicking GO it gives me the below: http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj183/jayton82/galaxy/idle-cruise.jpg When I press the brake I get: http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj183/jayton82/galaxy/braking-cruise.jpg and when I press the accelerator I get a response and the values in "Cruise Control CL//BR/RE/AC/on/on" increase. Now when I press the clutch... zip, zlitch, nudda... So I'm right to assume it's the clutch switch that's gone, damaged or disconnected right?

I thought places like halfrauds weren't allowed to sell these special tools to remove locking wheel nuts because the pikeys were using them and nicking wheels? :lol:

That's your problem then. Short trips = 'mayo' under the filler cap. Take it for a long run and you'll most likely find none under the cap afterwards.

So letting the cam belt go is cheaper than getting it renewed :lol: A garage that advertises on the radio claim to be cheap...

Hope you get it repaired soon fella. RE Polo's, is it the 6n2 1.4TDI? A friend has one and it's only got 3 cylinders! :( That's like having a 3 legged horse!

I've just bought the tool from an ebay seller, Laser tool 3307

Had it twice today, on purpose. I thought I'd see what RPM it will trip out at in 3rd gear, it was 3500rpm. The other time was about 3000rpm in 4th...

Ask VW, they seem to sell parts separately when Ford won't.

You can get DIY turbo cleaning kits if you are happy with removing the down pipe yourself, I know a company who will do it for around

depends on how much start/stop traffic there is. On the way into work through the middle of Oxford I get caught in traffic and do 25mpg, on the way home it's a bit easier because everyone else goes home 4pm-5pm and I only leave after 6pm so I get a bit more. My average MPG is 32 but that includes a good 7 miles of 60 zones and a few round abouts. Remember these cars are heavy and not as good on fuel as the smaller Golf's with the same engines. I took a SEAT Alhambra 1.8T on a similar run and it got 17MPG :rolleyes: Might be worth a getting the turbo cleaned if you haven't already, and also cleaning the intake system. Hows your exhaust/cat?

Are you doing a lot of town driving?

I suspect you may need your CAT looking at/replacing. As it's a diesel you might just want to get a de-cat instead, might be cheaper and won't make the car fail on emissions as they're not tested on diesels.

Nice one Frank :rolleyes: I'll give that a try after work.

I found this on Ross Tech's site: Activating Cruise Control on a new ECU (DBW): Factory fresh ECU's often come with cruise control de-activated. [select] [01 - Engine] [Login - 11] Enter 11463 to activate cruise control [Do It!] Is that what you mean?

Do I need to remove the lower dash to see them ? I laid on my back in the foot well (and wet pavement) with a torch and couldn't see any electrical plugs :(

Pull the cover off and look at the back of the engine bay, should be located just behind the engine at the top itms.