Jayton

If you need a scan for the Aux heater (i'll do it FOC of course), it will also help me know whether my cable/software is just not communicating with my aux heater module. So it helps us both :16:

That looks like the one I bought for

Welcome back :25:

does it fob still lock/unlock the car?

So the other day when I had a new tyre fitted the fitter noted that I was missing the locking wheel nut, I checked the other wheels and they were all missing too! He said it's perfectly safe to drive with 4 bolts in and just get them when I can. Now I've been searching for locking wheel bolts/nuts, I even went to the local Ford Dealer and they wanted

I don't think you need to reprogram the key as the car is coded to the key's unique 'code' not the other way round. Reprogramming is a piece of cake anyway :25: (see below) Open it up, remove the batteries, rebuild and see if it stays on again. To reprogram the key, follow the 2nd set of instructions. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...%BF%BDentry9914 1. Close all the vehicle doors. 2. Note: Make sure the door lock cylinder is held in the unlock position for more than 0.5 seconds. Insert the key into the driver door lock cylinder and turn the key from the rest position to the unlock position three times within five seconds. 3. The door lock light emitting diodes (LED)s will illuminate for 15 seconds during the remote transmitter programming mode, allowing the remote transmitter to be programmed. 4. Remove the key from the driver door lock cylinder and aim the remote transmitter at the interior rear view mirror. 5. Press and hold the LOCK button on the remote transmitter. 6. While holding the LOCK button down, press the UNLOCK button three times on the remote transmitter. 7. Release both buttons simultaneously. 8. Make sure the door lock LEDs flash five times, confirming that the remote transmitter has been programmed. 9. After a remote transmitter has been successfully programmed, the GEM will reset the programming mode, allowing a further 15 seconds to program the next remote transmitter. 10. To program additional remote transmitters, repeat steps 4 to 8. 11. Make sure that all the doors lock and unlock, confirming that the GEM is no longer in programming mode. 12. Test all the programmed remote transmitters, by activating and deactivating the locking and unlocking functions.

Is it flashing or just constantly on? If it were flash I'd think the button is stuck, but if it's constantly on then maybe it's time for a new key? I assume you've opened the fob and taken the both batteries out and put them back in?

The other people's problem appear to be the turbo vanes sticking, mines done that twice now but I do a lot of town driving and hardly rev it past 3k.

Looks like the one I found when looking for the correct GP for the aux heater.

Already checked & replaced, I have a suspicion that it's the same or similar problem as yours.

Well done :25:

You've been driving for 20 years on your fathers policies? :P No wonder you're quotes are as bad as mine :P I've been driving just over 2 years, only accident I have been involved in was a stupid Merc rear ending me 1 month after I got my GTD July last year :25: No points, no fines etc My policy is with Zurich Connect and was (off the top of my head) ~

The clarify my power loss was complete power loss and the engine would not start up afterwards, not just a lack of power.

Parking speed = slow speed ? Turning the steering wheel = steering system under load ?

Eggs stay in the box right near oven ofc, they only last 2 days max :o

:o

Check the switch and wires to it would be my first port of call, next would be trying the swtich for the otherside (swap them over), if is still doesn't work start looking at replacing the electric window mech/motor.

Did you replace the pulley on the alternator? I think I read they are clutched systems to allow the alternator to spin faster when the engine speed is slowing down. It's this system that causes the noise iirc, correct me if I'm wrong.

What engine code? EDIT: removed the engine codes I listed as they didn't come in 110bhp.

They just replaced the electrical cable to the fuel stop solenoid. Basically what was happening is vibrations were making it break contact, thus cutting power to the solenoid and the magnetic force keeping it open is lost and cuts the fuel. It happened @ 70mph on the M40, and 5mph leaving a customers site and was just a bad connection.

In the fuel pump.

I think the 115 will see 145, maybe 150 after a remap. Please be aware if you start this sort of modding it won't stop with just 1 cheeky remap... oh no, you'll want a large FMIC, uprated turbo, uprated clutch... it's like a disease once you start :o

Plain old cloth, I'm going round the outlaws tomorrow so will get it up high away from mice!

My GTD always had air in the lines, after reading online I thought this was the cause of my complete power loss I kept getting. Until I took it to the experts and they found it was the cable that powers the fuel stop solenoid was loose/corroded. Further reading/advice suggested that the VW diesel engines are not susceptible to problems from air in the fuel lines, where a lot of others are. This is because they bleed off the air in the pumps before it can cause problems, I believe they still do with the latest models.

I'm having a similar problem, where I felt the aux heater after a short run on a 3C morning and it wasn't even warm. My VAG-COM won't connect to it either... Today my eldest daughter was in the very back of the car and I asked her to feel the heaters on the floor and she said they were very warm, but this was after about 30mins or so driving, would the coolant be hot enough to warm the rear of the car up without the aux heater?