marinabrid

open bonnet remove plastic cover from top of engine follow small hose from expansion bottle it leads to a plastic part on the engine with a big hose coming out of it. there you will see a small 2 or 4 wire connecter with a yellow or green ring around it.. remove the multiplug and theres the sensor. to remove it just wiggle down the metal spring clip that appears to pass thru it and out it pops. it will have a rubber o ring though that may stay inside the housing. you can swop it without draining the water if your quick.

thermostats are fitted so that the bottom end with the spring on fits into the block first and the top of the thermostat with the bridge on it sits inside the housing. dont forget the o ring.

hi if it a mk 1 the sockewt is under the ashtray. from what i know buying the software and vagcom does not gaurantee the aux heater will communicate with it, particulaly the mk1 models. ive done 2 now both mk 1 and they have not required the resetting done. changing the glowplug is a favorite or bridge the temp sensor on the wiper linkage arm to see if that sparks it into life.

most good shops and them robbers at alfords sell a alloy wheel repair kit which can sometimes give very good results if done right.

I PUT A MK 2 SEAT IN OUR MK 1 NO PROBLEMS AT ALL IN THE MIDDLE WITH A KID SEAT IN. ALSO YOU MAY NEED TO CHECK YOUR LOG BOOK IT MAY SAY 6 SEATS IN WHICH CASE YOU MAY NEED TO RELL EM YOU GOT 7

get her one of the long handle window sqeegee about 2ft long to hook it down with and she can keep the windows clean as well.

hi all, should the battery be disconnected when fitting the new maf sensor? just read that the ecu may need resetting to allow the new maf to work. or wont the new maf supply the correct info to the ecu if not reset.

is it not the temp switch ?, thought i read about the same prob a while ago. i swopped mine last week 5 min job, get a intermotor part from local shop , check though some have a yellow ring round with 4 wires and some are green ring with 2 wire i think. mine works fine for

i put a piece of cardboard down the fron behind the grill hole and covbered the rad, it gets much hotter quicker now, so maybe its this very cold weather !! dont think us with the mk1 have the temp in figures just a white block then the word normal then a red block

hi mm does it then take a while to reach the middle of the gauge ? maybe mine "normal " after all. also mm how long does yours take to get from the bottom to halfway up then ?

yes me did bleed it and did the job on a uphill ramp at pals bus garage . the pipes from the booster arehot after 5 mins right up to the engine and into the rear heater. wonder if the cold air is overcooling the system, going to try the old fashioned block off the radiator remedy and see if that helps. the eberspacher dealer said the dw5 is the same as the 3 but a longer heat exchager inside and works in the same way ie pumped around by the water pump on the engine. or as mm said maybe when the needle gets half way to norm the thing goes into half pwer, ill try turnon the rear heater and see what happen.

i not happy. why does the thing warm up to half way to normal in 3 miles but take ages to get to the middle of the gauge even with booster onm full.

yes indeed kid, that thing doesnt work either, its either sit there frozen stiff or in summer boil like a lobster, why did i buy another one of these !!!!!!!!!! it was cheep.

hi all, wel i fitted this refurbished booster heater a 5kw model and in a few mins the water pipes coming out of the heater are getting hot, however.... how long does yours take to move the gauge or get warm/hot air from the blower ? this one is now warm after 5 mins but not to normal temp in middle of gauge till about 7 miles of running. still seems slow to warm up to me, or is i paranoid ! if the thermostat was stuck a bit would that still cause longer warm up time or with the amount of heat from the booster wouldnt the thermo open quicker ! maybe even with a booster these engines are still slow to warm up,,, are they ? if i leave it tickng over from cold on the drive from cold its still only barely warm after 15 mins. but if i drive it its much hotter . there is a definate improvement from without the booster am i expecting to much from it i wonder ? :P

took the tdi 90 out for 1st time yesterday on along run, came to a big hill, garrowby hill in east yorkshire near york if anyone know, its a steep one. car had run perfectly with wot i though was enough power, still not a patch on the wifes 110 though, up the hill down to 3 rd gear then even slower jeeeez dowm to 2nd doing 20mph engine just would not rev about 3000rpm till got to top of hill, never overheated though, no clutch slip or smell, much to my suprise. does this sound like i need to change the maf sensor, no fault codes logged on car just snails pace up big hill. back on the flat seemed to run normal up to 60 mph + thanks all

you chaps any ideas of what may happen inside the winding housing, the nut just goes round and round but the cable which is 3 feet undone dont move !! i thought id put the wheel on the trolly jack and jack it up till the threaed bar was in sight then bolt it up.

anyone had an idea to replace this winch affair, thought about a piece of bar up thru the wheel and bolted over the top, anyone tried this or got any better ideas, damned if i pay

hi just got another temp sensor for the tdi it not have a thread just a rubber sealing ring, is it just a pull the old one out and push the new one in job, or something more complex ? do you have to drain the water or be quick to swop the new one ? thanks :blink:

thanks., vr6

hi all, are the 2 wires on the metering pump first a live from the heater and an earth, or do they both come from the heater ? and no earth or what ?

tricky one, what about rigging a small pipe with fuel in to pump into the heater to see if oat hapens ? i think the heater should ask the pump for fuel at start up, from my experience both a 97 and a 98 year heater have never shut down by the ecu so i would have though that you may get the whizzing noise by the fan motor trying to start the unit ,but no fuel means it wont fire. its elimination game thats wot im doing at the mo. only other thing is heater off link the water pipes with 22mm copper pipe and send it for checking to a eberspacher dealer or the ford diagnostic may tell you the problem...maybe. thats another

jeez dont try vw on this one. i tried them want

tryu trevor@fordpartsuk.com they do cheeper ford bits. you may save a bit/

hi again, gonna bite the bullet and get a new one , has anyony fitted one ? if so is it just fit and fire up or is anything else to do, as usually there be no fitting manual with a ford part.

yes the thing goes for 2 to 3 mins then excess unburnt fuel starts to drip out of the exhaust while its running , then seems to flood and shuts down, have unplugged the fuel hose even tried rstricting the flow, the fuel is getting pumped ok like a regular pulsing to the heater, on the d5w the burner is shown and the fuel supply pipe is a seperate union with a gauze around it, on the d3w mine, the fuel inlet pipe from the top is attached directly to the burner, the fuel runs down the pipe and into the burner chamber, the glow plug sits it a recess in the side of the burner, the burnr has a series of holes around the inside, there nothing else, nowhere for gauze to sit, however the gauze i got i cut that and sat it around the glow plug tip. what about these sensors, there a flame monitor under the glow plug, hows that work ? these sesors are all