cyborg

After reading all posts above I hope you haven't overlooked basics as a low rear tyre pressure can cause same effect :unsure:

Me again, is

Because servo's are work or fail my assumptions are is that vac line is leaking, snaged or collapsed as the engine moves under braking alternativly the chamber from which the vac line is conneted to servo has some blockage however found this. From VW AUDI FORUM. From some research I have done, problem seems to be one of following: 1. Servo and vacuum hose failure (pricey); 2. Vacuum hose from manifold collapsed in on itself and broken on metal pipe that comes upward from the manifold; 3. Water drawn into servo (caused by blocked plenum drain, etc). Need to remove master cylinder and check; 4. Vacuum hose crimped or split; 5. Vacuum hose too thin on older A4's - need a newer one that is reinforced and won't crimp; 6. When pressing the brake pedal twice quickly in succession, it can cause the brake to become hard. The brake hose goes through the engine compartment bulkhead and naturally passes through a grommet. When you press the brake the first time it causes the hose to

Hi just covered this click here

:D :D :D :D:D:D

remove undertray if exists.... this is what your looking for has hose going into top of airbox its formally called a Pierburg Secondary Air Pump held on by about 3 screws in between rad and engine . To be honest not sure its your problem but you seem to have ruled lots out. http://www.urotuning.com/shop/images/06A959253E.jpg make sure you have missed a split air hose or intake hose and your "o" rings are in place and lastly make sure the airfilter is in place..

maybe your secondary air pump isn't pumping . Taken from webb; Secondary Air Injection (AIR)system,checking The Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system causes the catalytic converter to heat up more quickly,resulting in earlier operating readiness following cold start.Principle Due to overenrichment of the mixture during the cold start phase,there is an increased amount of uncombusted carbon monoxide in the exhaust.Secondary Air Injection (AIR)improves secondary oxidation in the catalytic converter and therefore reduce emissions. The heat produced by secondary oxidation greatly reduces start-up time for the catalytic converter,therefore improving exhaust quality during the cold start phase significantly.

Ah Ha is that a 2.3 V5 conversion then? :) Its must be a 2.0vw bored out to 2.3 skimmed head with turbo :) not forgetting go faster stripes :D

Hi there welcome to forum, There are no relay's controling windows so stop searching , the wires in the doors is where you should check see Faq no 43

temp sensor do get less sensistive over time due to limescale bit like a kettle unplug it sandpaper it pop it back or replace up to you . on replacing the thermostat be carefull some aftermarket ones are thinner metal causing the housing to leek .its three bolts to remove housing from engine see FAQ Number 42 for more info

sounds like the digifant relay (all sensors to ecu) is causing mischief see link from FAQ section clicky here relay 53 is window wipers

on the 2nd picture by the red power lead undo that bolt and resisters easly pulled out normally they crack expose wires which rust and disconnect over time.hence giving you no power to fans.

The vr6 does run hot ! 113 is not unusal however there are a few things you can check .. Fans switch on aircon do fans come on if not check 40 amp fuses engine bay nearside box beside shock piller if ok Remove undertray if exists.. then look for green resister behind water bottle plug at green resister connect up battery and measure both connections are giving 12v its not uncommen green resister to fail. fan should come on around 86 degrees there are 5+ phases to fans dependent on auto or manual. Temp sensors The main temp sensor is black half way down rad you can uplug and test by putting a wire across connection 1+2 and 2+3 fans should come on on both phases its a bit tight to get to easly done by removing top rad hose. The three other sensors are ; yellow - additional water pump, run on pump blue - sends temp to dash + ecu brown - A/C fan Themostat Check the lower rad pipe is stone cold until the temp gauge reaches the half way point, if it gets lukewarm straight away then the thermostat is stuck open or missing, if it stays cold then it is stuck shut. Waterpump Look for a trickle of coolent below it ,a sure sign its on way out, if all above works then flush system then if still not low live with it or change waterpump . Vagcom you can have a look and see if run on pump has had it also check temp see if dash speaks with forked tongue :rolleyes:

Hello & welcome :angry2:

What an intresting discussion good post sugerfree. If think there would be a potential bhp increase but it cannot be measured by 30% increase and you go 30% faster as you can't truly measure the power created by switching system on/off as ratio for economy changes by atmospheric drag causing resistance and road level which increase the faster you go so really needs lab conditions wind tunnel required.Or expect less substantial increases... Example on wiki probably a better explanation . A car cruising on a highway at 50 mph (80 km/h) may require only 10 horsepower (7.5 kW) to overcome air drag, but that same car at 100 mph (160 km/h) requires 80 hp (60 kW). With a doubling of speed the drag (force) quadruples per the formula. Exerting four times the force over a fixed distance produces four times as much work . At twice the speed the work (resulting in displacement over a fixed distance) is done twice as fast. Since power is the rate of doing work, four times the work done in half the time requires eight times the power. on the flip side you need stainless exhaust as your exhasust will rust as h2o byproduct. not sure how valve seals would react over time and piston rings and liners may rust over night. Unfortunatly Oil companies own every patton and file them under B and your up against conditioning years of subliminal advertising look up Stan Meyer. ethanol and veggie cars theres something in that.

hi I usually use a spare old spark plug connect to ht lead and see if they fire .

Try Jacking up front or use front ramps it gives you the space to get the angle

Here's a few things to check Sounds daft but are you out of petrol ? Then.. Check you haven't lost chip from keys if you've changed battery or dropped keys. Check Ecu fuse. Check you have over 100 psi on compression. Then unplug mass air sensor Try Jumpstarting to rule out battery Try Bumpstarting to rule out lazy starter Check coil unplug each lead and see if spark jumps.

The leak will be thermostat housing comen failure . see faq press here Ebay Cheap as chips press here

Hi, Remove scuttle tray (the one large bit of plastic under wiper mechanisms about a metre long 10 mm 3 screws use a long socket on 2 bolts behind lifted bonnet ) Then you will see it yellow cap behind drivers side just behind airbox left a bit there you go .

hi james b, Welcome to forum please read this faq press me More than likley a broken wire lets us know how you get on.

leave the tailgate open and with the right wind who knows :unsure:

Its one of those really small fuses about 1cm length 10amp can't find my hand book at mo but if you open the fuse panel its the ons on left coloum. What i do is put a voltmeter on earth then go down fuses checking for 12 either side of fuse.

Hi there, yes you will need a program called vagcom plenty of information on here about it . Iirc next years mot it will need to be a working feature.

Ford Galaxy uk where Dreams become reality :)