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That sounds more like an old dynamo - never had an alternator doing that but it doesn't sound A1 - no doubt someone will confirm if its normal

probably not but -- Go to this ebay page selling a MK2 cover and click the link 'see compatible vehicles' - enter the 1998 model details http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5aec446d5bhttp://www.ebay.co.u...=item5aec446d5b

On this topic, I once took my gal back to tyre fitters after they badly messed up my tracking. Claimed tracking was ok and then "looked for other causes" - having raised it up, they pointed out the apparent drop and claimed that was the reason - needless to say, I didn't use them again - took it to a reputable independent garage who confirmed the tracking performed by the monkeys was miles out. Problem is the unnecessary expense that the unwary would pay to these people.

Maximum heat generation is equivalent to 5kw as you say. Maximum fuel consumption is 0.7 litres per hour. iirc it should cut in when both air temp is below 10deg and engine temp below about 70deg - so when you reach normal engine temp, it should shut down - which you should reach easily with a 20mile run and the eberspracher operating. I stand to be corrected on the temp figures though.

Its 2008 and ok - European ford format - see http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Vehicle_Identification_Numbers_(VIN_codes)/Ford/VIN_Codes#European_VIN_format

yeh, they do but it took them 7 years since Ford stopped making the MK2. Presumably, Haynes found it a little difficult to find out what was going on under the bonnet :)

Good job! :) - its likely that you interrupted the circuit while checking fuses allowing trip computer to reboot. . btw - your model is on your profile - its me who didnt look properly.

Hi, would be helpful if you told us your model. But without that, you could try fuses 31 or 32. If they are ok , disconnecting battery for a few minutes to allow trip computer to reboot may help.

iirc the alternator is rated at 120 amp so a 150 amp cable would be fine. Electricallly speaking, there's no reason for you not to use a higher amperage cable if you want to providing the terminals fit ok, perhaps just an unnecessary extra expense.

Yours is probably a 'fluke' multimeter so it is normal to read OL when switching to resistance if the meter terminals are not connected to anything. Simply means open circuit and is normal. Resistance across a glow plug in isolation should be less than about 5 ohms but greater than zero of course.

The sidelight won't affect it ( unless its on all the time of course!). It can be a poor connection if its not been twisted in properly or if some dirt was left in contacts if its been replaced. They do however sometimes go dim rather than failing outright - happened to me twice. If you're going to change it, get some plasters for your fingers and keep the kids out of earshot! 540 will be the cca - unsure of the minimum required for diesel gal, but in excess of 700 is commonly quoted so it may be on the lean side - anyhow as sparky said, battery needs to be tested

You will need a minimum of 75ah and preferably 90ah to cover the winter. Having said that, I am surprised that your new 61ah battery is dead after 36hours in current mild conditions. Do you have a constant significant drain on it? What is its cca (cold cranking) - maybe it appears dead as not sufficient turning power.

Yeah, you miss the ticking and the jet engine when its broke - like mine :glare:

Also glove box if the rattle sounds closer - had me stumped for ages - run with glovebox open to check for this - ratlle would change or disappear.

Seems suspiciously fan related then! How is it Ford failed to replicate - is it intermittent?

First thing springs to mind - does the noise stop if you disconnect the fan?

As it happens, I have had experiences specifically with Avon tyres wearing unevenly, but only on the Galaxy, not on other cars, On replacement with a different make, all was ok. Not much help again - sorry

Not likely to be the tyre pressure - 41lb is certainly not excessive on the galaxy.

Thought the site had been hijacked as avast flagged a malware infection when opening.

Its the reason I don't buy petrol cars any more. TBH I don't think 14mpg is that unexpected for a big car like the gal. I once had a Vauxhall VX490 twin carb job and also an MG magnette back in the good old days - don't think I ever got more than 15mpg out of either of them. There again petrol was only 7/6 a gallon. On the other hand I was only earning about a tenner a week. Overjoyed with diesel gal - never less than 40mpg even when fully loaded and used around town most of the time - actually beats my Fiat Punto petrol on mpg - crazy..

Thats my point. Ignore the fitting- you can usually wire/solder in a small bulb and position it so that it gives you the background illumination required - (you would need to detect the relevant leads to the bulb and not the clock feed itself) Avoids the problem of complex fittings and the inevitably exorbitant cost of the Ford bulb. Otherwise, just go to your local Ford dealer with your vehicle info and they should have no problem sorting you out.

Its not unusual. Probably electrical interference in your locality. The alarm system probably operates in the 433Mhz band along with many other domestic devices. Mostly these are kept from interfering with each other by various coding/encryption techniques. For example remote control power sockets use this band but would not normally affect each other within the same household as they are coded. Also. any high intensity electrical discharge or transmission could set off your alarm which is why lightning often sets off car and house alarms. Seems daft, but try parking pointing in a different direction. Does it go off at night when neighbours are asleep? - Could be a pointer to where the problem originates.

I tend to improvise with this sort of instrument bulb. Its probably only about one watt so get something similar from Maplins. You may have to do a bit of improvised wiring or soldering. i did the same with the ashtray bulb which would have been a hell of a job to replace anyway if I had bought the correct fitting, no doubt at a high price. Buy a cheap bulb, spend a bit of time, and bobs your uncle!

If your finger nail stops momentarily when dragging it across the scratch, then it is too deep for t-cut to remove, neither have I found various other products to be any good except for minor surface scratches. I have a fairly deep one about two feet long made some few weeks after buying the gal by a jealous neighbour (no absolute proof, but you just know , don't you!). At the time, I was eager to get it sorted, took it to Ford thinking about £30 in my naivety, and they quoted something like £300. Another option could be the chips away type people, less expensive but varying reports on them. Prefer to attempt it myself, but concerned about making more of a mess if using something too abrasive. If you find something that works, please post!

have you checked connections are clean and tight? - could be caused by high resistance at cable ends