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I use Millers diesel power EcoMax. when I researched this some years ago, I found that it was highly recommended as initially I was reluctant to use any additive - prefer to be cautious. The main reason was that emissions were creeping up on the Mots near to failure point. Now I add the ecomax to a full tank about a month before the MOT, book it in for an afternoon slot (so there's no chance of the engine cooling down much before the test), anfd give it an italian tuneup in the morning before taking it in, Emissions have been fine since doing this once a year.

Always had servicing done on the gal by VW, not Ford - at least they should put the right spec in it! - one hopes...

I've seen comments about this on a VW forum re diesel engines and as far as I can gather, the concensus has been that if your car has had regular oil and filter changes and is running fine, leave well alone - thats what i'd do anyhow

The only serviceable part is the thermal fuse which sits on top of the resistor pack. If this has gone open circuit then you may get away with replacing it and for the cost it is well worth a go - cheap from maplins. Take care if soldering - use a heat sink (its a thermal fuse!)

Check you don't have something mangled in the runners. Happened to me with a 10p coin.

aha - now you tell us! Don't know how heavy you mean - I have used for breeze blocks on occasion but only driving slowly and carefully from Wickes back home - about 5 miles. Its been used choc a blok with household stuff ferrying back and forth to uni etc - but not a greater weight than 5 people sitiing in the back. I wouldn't put any great weights in the back without expecting trouble. I once finished a Citroen Visa's suspension and rear wheel bearings doing that - I was only believing the TV advert which showed about 13 people hetting out of one - silly me...

Currently using Goodyear Optigrip all round - wearing slowly on the front - very pleased with them Wear has always been negligible on the back whatever fitted - last time I had to replace rear tyres they still had 5mm tread but sidewalls were looking tired -they were 5 years old so thought better to replace

Those sedonas can welly up hills alright but use a gallon of fuel on the way :18:

Nah - he wanted a big one :lol:

welcome to the forum! As crispb points out, I never run my front tyres below 40psi whatever the load and they do fine at that pressure. Having said that, in your case, under inflation would cause excessive wear on both edges not just the outer. Who checked the tracking? I once made a mistake by letting a well known group beginning with kw do mine, after which it ate tyres like butter until I got it done by a reputable garage and now its spot on. Has it been involved in any accidents?

Probably a faulty reversing switch - Would explain both sensors and light not turning on. Not sure what you mean about the sensors - once continuous the note does not change - or do you mean theres no beep before the continuous note? oh - and welcome!

Anyone tell me where the microswitch for the lamp is located on the MkII glovebox? Can't find it for the life of me - mind you , it was dark. Light came on and would not switch off by closing glovebox - had to disconnect rather than letting it burn all night. :blush:

Haven't looked at mine for a while but iirc isn't it fitted with the outermost edge of the wheel face down so that you'd be able to get to the valve easily?

As I understand, the engine is accelerated to governed speed?

well geez, there must be something good about the car but how did she manage that on a cold engine?

Thanks for clearing up the advisories guys - very useful info As for this below, looks like the garage is seriously short of business :lol: - good luck! ps - assume the the cigar lighter is fine :D

true but I was just thinking again about this. In the same way that an individual can check their own MOT history, can a garage also see old advisories? Obviously they have access to the old certificate expiry date now that its all online but can they see old advisories from the previous MOT or indeed from an MOT failure certificate. If so, makes it more difficult to take a car elesewhere for a retest as they will know what to look for - if they don't find the same advisories on their test (assuming it isnt patently obvious that they were repaired) then they could be subject to scrutiny by the regulators. Did that make any sense? If not forget it - gone to lie down.

Bear in mind 'advisories' are often subjective opinions and can come and go depending on who tests :35:

I would but no-one will share it with me .... :2:

And watch for tracking issues on the front tyres - very sensitive and can go through the rubber like butter if its out - use a reputable steering geometry place and not the tyre fitters - "would you lke your tracking screwed up sir? - special deal today - nearside and offside for the price of one"

I don't know why you allowed yourself to be rushed into this purchase - buyer beware! However, since you're now stuck with the problem, there are possibly several laws covering the invalid description: Sale of goods Act 1979 maybe Unfair Trading regulations 2008 Suggest you contact trading standards or citizens advice, possibly a solicitor. Keep a note of everytning - good luck

not sure what you mean, sorry. If you mean recalls, there is one stamped in my log book You can check the MOT history of a vehicle online along with any advisories (flagged problems which do not constitute a failure) I think Gregers means that it would give you an idea of past problems though of course it wouldn't cover servicing history - still useful to look at i find go to http://motinfo.direct.gov.uk/internet/jsp/ECHID-Internet-History-Request.jsp

Is there any reason why you cannot simply use the stick on headlamp beam adjusters?

Good advice from above but its an unusual worry. There again, you don't say how long you take for lunch!

Well its not an exact science but average mileage is supposed to be around 12,000 per year (miles). Personally, my average is 8000. And that doesn't tell the whole story - depends on how it was driven, terrain etc. 12000 mostly motorway driving and 12000 around town create different stresses on a car, so its useful to know its history and owners, and of course service history - you want to know if timing belt has been renewed if necessary. Use a price guide like Parkers to get an idea of how much the price is affected by mileage.