acecard

Most definitely. The purpose of the thermostat is to enable the engine to reach operating temperature quickly. This is achieved by the thermostat remaining closed when the engine is cold, thus restricting the flow of coolant. When the thermostat reaches its spec temp, say 90C, it opens allowing coolant to flow through the engine, radiator etc. So if a thermo fails to open, the engine will quickly and often dramatically overheat. If it fails to close, the engine will struggle to reach normal temp, especially if its a diesel. But if the overheating has just started during the hot weather, you may have other issues with the cooling system, not necessarily the thermostat.

Assuming you are not reversing too fast! Does this happen in a particular location or reversing anywhere? Some surfaces or non vertical surfaces may reflect poorly or off at a tangent. I've heard but not experienced it that one faulty sensor can upset the whole system.

You could get away with 120 amp variant - the 150 amp is normally fitted with heated seats - you could just not use them I suppose- but there again you would have potential problems if you forgot. There is also the issue of selling the car with knowingly underspec parts fitted. Always best to play safe with the electrics and fit the 150 amp and avoid overheating issues.

isn't it under the fusebox drivers side - pinkish port?

I assume the drivers side is working - and you have checked fuses. Possibly dirty connection. Check with a multimeter if you are getting power to the bulb holder first. Did the old bulb actually blow - have you checked it?

Its likely then you had a high resistance or open circuit connection to one of the bulbs- clean well if it lights up again. I always lightly file bulb contacts before fitting as they can otherwise make bad contact-

Have you checked brake lamps?

Yes you're right about the difficulty of isolating an individual warning light - wasn't thinking clearly at the time (tescos dark rum) However, I cannot see many mot inspectors being familiar with the wide variety of 'ignition on' lamp displays on many models. think it would be difficult to spot the odd missing one on every occasion ( a 'beep' os a dead giveaway though) There again, I may be wrong. As regards a sympathetic tester, may I suggest a busy garage might be pushed to get the mot's through faster. Just makes me yearn even more for the old days when it was easy to manipulate virtually everything on the car *sigh*

I know its not 'politically correct' but with an intermitent bulb warning (though you have checked nothing is wrong) which may cause an mot failure, it may be wiser to disconnect the bulb temporarily. Flame me if you want but you've got to be realistic now with the severity of the mot tests

So how did you But how did you manage to get the bulb in the wrong way with the headlight removed - I mean you can actually see what you are doing rather than feeling your way wih the headlight in situ?

see if Mirez's fuse diagram helps http://www.mirez.co.uk/Galaxy/f&rinfo.html but is it the fuse you want or is it just that the cruise isn't working and you suspect fuse? you could check here as well http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=7897

Yep - great fun changing the headlamps - have you tried the front sidelamps for even more fingers dripping in blood :27:

same here- light started coming on intermittently- rear pads fine - changed front pads as they were wearing but not that low - after change light coming on intermittently again for a few weeks, then it stopped - never found out why

Red headlamp is an MOT failure :lol:

can u fit them upside down? iirc theres a small hole cutout which has to fit into the bulb holder correctly.

Hello and welcome to the forum. To be honest, on these symptoms, I would first of all suspect the 'new' resistor pack that you bought. It may have been faulty or have a duff thermal fuse on top or have been substituted for a faulty one (for whatever reason :glare:) First of all, get another from a different dealer, to make sure you don't buy the same one again.Let us know what happens.

Theres quite a few on sale rated at 0.9 ohms - doesn't make much difference - just that a reading of around 1 ohm doesn't mean its on the way out. All this is so much more helpful than the Mk2 Haynes which tells you to resistance check the plugs but gives no idea what to expect claiming that at the time of writing "this information is not available" :blush:

Have you tried Eurocarparts? is this what you need? http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Ford_Galaxy_2.3_2001/p/car-parts/engine-parts/belts-chains-and-tensioners/tensioners-idlers-and-dampers/?326442110&1&b05bb2f505ba6f98a7ad810688d1c17245dbf77d&000112

Don't think you'd need to buy a whole window but you might need the full opener assembly unless you can improvise with some diy job (carriage bolt and solid bit of plastic or metal?) Scrapyard might be the best bet. Theres something similar here but you need to check fitting http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Sharan-REAR-WINDOW-CATCH-OPENER-may-fit-Seat-Alhambra-Ford-galaxy-/150957039709?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2325bda05d

Must admit that the expense of glowplugs deters me somewhat from changing them. I have done about 50k now so would assume they could be on the way out. Is there much harm done by the lumpy/clattery starts? But look on the bright side - with a couple of faulty spark plugs, you're dead :D - just loved to see those bright blue sparks flashing all over the engine compartment on a wet winters night - my trusty old mini you know

So it would be advisable maybe to wait 30 seconds in very cold weather after swtiching on as a matter of course (assuming glowplugs are working anyway)?

Thanks seatkid - you live and learn. Always thought that the light going off indicated that all glowplugs had successfully reached operating temp.

Mine is often clattery on winter mornings. Contemplated changing glowplugs but the warning light goes out after a few seconds although taking longer in the cold - seems normal for a diesel engine, didn't think any plugs could actually be broken. Could this happen even though the light goes out?

Hi and welcome - Presume the clutch isn't slipping?

yep- the heated front screen draws serious amps - be a hell of a job on winter morns without it - don't think i would ever get moving