acecard

Given the problems, the only problem not solved is why we buy them!

I found removing the glovebox the most difficult part of the job. Tried to follow instructions on here but didn't work out. It feels like some cheap bit of plastic is about to snap. The thing eventually collapsed whereupon I was ablle to see better how it hangs together but it's never been quite the same again. I keep it locked otherwise it has a nasty tendency to fall apart when hitting a bump. I think you hit the problem on the head - glovebox is a pig. There again, it might just be me. (2006 55 reg 1.9 Tdi with attitude) Good idea btw about just replacing the thermal fuse. I't usually just that. After the first time. I kept the old resistor pack and stored it along with the Maplins thermal fuses so I don't have to fork out too much in future (it's failed twice in 5 years). Resistor pack itself could be o/c but most likely the fuse.

It's a but late for a reply on this but as a matter of interest Ford simply don't recognise the N0552146 VX00 specified in the handbook. They do however know about wss-m2c204-a2.. which is the green stuff. They sold me a litre for just under

I made an effective luggage cover for

Its a common problem. Most likely the resistor pack behind the glovebox. There are several references to how to replace on this forum. Just a point - before blowing your hard earned cash on a new pack, check that the thermal fuse (the bit soldered on the outside of the pack) is not open circuit. If it is, you'll probably get away with replacing that at less than a

Which fuae would that be, btw?

Anyone know best place for new wipers without costing an arm and a leg? Just called in Halfrauds and they want

I recall somewhere a mention of the heater hoses being close to the pollen filter so you get warmish air whether you like it or not unless aircon is on - but I may be wrong.

True but not sure what to expect. My multimeter max is 10 amps. Anyone know the fuse rating for this circuit?

I might add that there was no sign whatever of any overheating on the resistor pack or in its vicinity so I would tend to think maybe its just a poor quality component judging by the number of people who report it. I agree that 240 deg is pretty damn hot and I'm not sure I would want that simmering behind the glovebox! At Maplins prices, I could start midrange and work my way up. Even better, rig up a dashboard display of resistor pack temperature :) The only thing that bothers me a bit is Big Kevs suggestion that the blower motor may be faulty as thy don't come cheap. Just found this comment regarding a Fiesta with the same problem: If it's like the Mondeos/Focuses et al, it's in the fresh air vent pipe on the passenger side behind the glovebox. The cause of failure is a blocked pollen filter. The blocked filter doesn't allow air to flow over the resistor pack so the thermal fuse blows. Is this a likely cause on the Gal?

Thanks for that. I notice there are a lot of lots of threads around with reference to the common fault of blower not working on some combination of 1, 2 and 3 positions but usually fine on 4 which I assume is hot wired with no resistor in series. Alas, though 4 may work, the resistor pack also stops aircon. It appears to be a common problem on other Fords and I also had an Espace with an identical fault. As i said earlier, the resistance windings themselves are thick gauge with a hefty current needed to kill them so I suspect that in the vast majority of cases, it will be this cheap fuse. As its easy to check if it has blown, most people could probably save the

thanks everyone - will take a clearer photo and check any numbers tomorrow

Just fitted the second resistor pack on my 55reg TDi. It's only done 25k from new and I would expect these components to last longer, specially as they have "made in Germany" inscribed on them. I did some resistance checks this time comparing old with new, bearing in mind that the resistance wire in the windings is pretty substantial gauge which would take a lot to go open circuit. I discovered that it was actually the component I have highlighted which has gone o/c and suspect the same may have happened last time as symptoms were the same. I could have saved

More like the startup routine for the Large hadron Collider

Wouldn't happen to be snowing today in your area? Plays havoc with parking sensors.

try pressing the switch underneath the right stalk which toggles between current journey (shown as 1 on display) and cumulative figures (shown as 2). You need to hold it in for a few seconds and you'll probably trigger your wipers if not gentle. May boot it back to life.

I have Avon ZV5 up front. Wear much poorer than original Michelins. I use Tyre Shopper for the Galaxy and my little Punto. Very happy with the prices as they are actually National but undercut National prices. Fitted at National outlets just the same.

Thanks for that

Very informative - thanks for the link. In my earlier days, when one could never assume the earth polarity of the vehicle, many reasons were put forward to support either positive or negative grounding. Much better now to have a standardised approach with good scientific basis. Same as gearboxes, I used to be flummoxed by the sheer variety of gear positions, especially reverse - left/right/push/pull etc etc and of course no legend on the gearknob. Perhaps we've lost some of the magic.

Sorry, just assumed somrthing like that would be in a standard location on all models. She's a 2006 '55' 130TDi Zetec Manual Shadow Blue with a bad attitude to front tyres

Sorry if this has been touched on before but for some reason I cannot search on these forums. it's just for curiosity but can someone tell me where the sensor for the thermometer is situated?

Plus, if it was my ch system, I'd be 90% certain of an air lock. Not sure if you can bleed the system on gals easily - modern cars defeat me.

When I bought my TDi 130 2005, it took ages to warm up. Got them to replace the thermo under warranty but didnt improve matters too much. Frequently on a 20 min drive on a slight downhill slope, it hardly gets to 60 on the gauge. Work it a bit on the same journey uphill and gets to 90 no problem. If anything, I have less trouble in the cold as I get that reassuring tick from the aux heater and things warm up nicely. My experiences with a sticking (closed) themo is that things fry pretty quickly but don't they tend to fail safe (ie open). Possibly two dicky thermos?

Thanks for that. So they look suspicious even when it's all above board. Maybe years of practice. Still can't understand why they didn't offer the check upfront. After all, its more cash in their pockets and I have never known them before to decline an opportunity to make a few bob. There again, the car park was inundated with snow bound vehicles so maybe they just wanted me out asap. Cheers!