acecard

Seems expensive but I guess should outlive the car and never need changing again - will decide next time one blows - where did you get them from?

Long time ago, when I was a TV engineer, in the days of valves and so on, when things were repaired rather than just swapped, following a technical review of the fault and taking the necessary steps to rectify, if it still didnt work, then a good sharp blow with the palm of the hand often worked wonders, so the hammer might be a good idea - start with a softer rubber mallet. Or maybe your car has morphed into one of those stop-start engines, ... without the start. Good luck

I use the handle of a wrench which fits into the groove on the lampholder so you can get some twist on it - works very well - in the past I've resorted to using a piece of wood shaped with a penknife to get at them. Seems to me odd design whereas the sidelight is virtually unreachable for most adults yet directly underneath the indicator has as nice long handle to grip.

Not really an issue - just interesting and wondered if anyone else had this experience. Front sidelight just failed - or rather went very dim - exactly the same happened with a previous failure. Lights go dim rather than fail outright and have a dark silvery coating on the inside. I have been using Ring autobulbs available from Wilkinsons and although cheap, Ring is well established so I would have thought quite reliable. Currently £1.50 for 2 from wilkinsons - at least twice the price at Halfords. Has anyone experienced bulbs failing in this fashion? These sidelights are a bit of a swine to change so I prefer not to do it that often!

thats what bothers me when eventually i will probably move to a mk3 - generally use in heavy traffic over relatively short distances so it dismays me to have to thrash the hell out of it once a week just to clear a dpf (dire problematical folly)

Nice motor - , Galaxies are great for families, got used to them so much that I couldn't put up with a smaller car - also useful for carrying old mattresses, washing machines, moving to uni etc etc. Best of luck with the babby oh by the way - you left your keys on the seat

power steering pump on way out maybe - have you checked fluid level?

I guess you could try spraying around with WD40 letting it soak in and then get physical with it again - other than that, looks like you're gonna have to dismantle to find out exact cause :blush:

want to sell ...?

Its often a coin thats got trapped into the runner and then got severely mangled with the seat being forced onto it - eventually it just jams in place - worth checking because its not easy to see

this may help - thanks to Mirez http://www.mirez.co.uk/Galaxy/f&rinfo.html

nige, can't check at the mo but looking at it from another viewpoint - a drain of 110ma at a source voltage between 12 and 14 volts is equivalent to having a 1.3 to 1.5 watt bulb on constantly - and that don't seem much.

It could be due to condensation among other things or your clutch may be on the way out - both possibilities that you have mentioned. Personally, I would wait and see if it gets worse before deciding to invest in further investigations. In al my experiences with clutches (specially with Renault espace :27: ), you'll get enough warning before you need to take action. There again, never had a problem with a Galaxy clutch so I might be talking through my hat.

Will work in chrome for me but not IE9 or standard firefox - maybe a bad driver lol :38:

I have tried different internet browsers on these FAQs and there does seem to be a problem with the links. There were some remarks on this back in June about it being broken and then Gregers seems to have checked it a ok. So if you can still access these links Gregers, can you let us know what browser you're using?

Could be due to any number of reasons. Does it happen all the time or only when the clutch is warm? (My little punto does a wonderful little shake with a nicely warmed clutch)

I don't know what the normal range is for the galaxy/sharan but that would seem too high to me. I think you need to start pulling fuses! Its laborious I know but imho you need to find out whether the 120ma is simply an accumulative value for various bits and bobs or whether a particular circuit is drawing too heavily. As you say, it would completely flatten a battery within a month, but you would have starting problems well before itdrained that low. I expect someone on here will have done the same check and give you an idea of normal parasitic drain. btw - doesn't fully explain your low battery voltage readings so I still suspect you have a battery problem as well

nige, most multimeters come with a separate socket possibly marked 10ADC or similar where you plug in the positive lead rather than the red socket used for most operations - this will normally be rated at 10 amps - use this first to check if there is a heavy drain and then if the reading is low enough get a more accurate reading by using the 200ma range if you dont have this and your meter is fused at 200ma, a current significantly higher than this will blow the fuse, as you say and dont be tempted to use a larger fuse or you will fry your meter Ensure you are set to amps and not volts

thats an ammeter though or a multimeter on maximum amps setting - if you connect a voltmeter or multimeter set to volts in series with the battery then you could have one well fried meter !

I don't think the Sharan has an auxiliary battery - and I don't see the connection with the booster heater anyway. I think some VW camper types have aux batteries under the front seat so theres probably some confusion here. From your voltage readings, I would definitely say battery and I'd be pretty sure a new one would solve the problem.

Are you sure its not the bulb warning light? If it definitely is the brake lamp, I have had this happen after changing brakr pads - and after a while it settled down and eventually went off by itself - never found out why

I think you should suspect the battery first as you say it may have been standing a long time before purchase - before you start investigating the more esoteric possibilities. What is battery voltage after charge? In terms of battery discharge, you can always put an ammeter in series to check. DO make sure it is on its highest amperage setting - usually separate plug connection on front - and DON'T use any extras on car while in this state - no lights, no alarm, do not open doors etc. You will always have some drain but this would indicate whether it is significant enought to be a fault.

yeah sorry corrected half way through

just noticed you said smoke is from the engine exhaust so forget the booster heater for now - but how would u get the thing started with 2 duff plugs ....

I assume you mean the 'Service in xxx miles' display - here's what you do With the ignition off, press the mileage reset button Hold in reset button while you turn the ignition on After about a few seconds the display should reset itself Release the button and turn the ignition off