Masked Marauder

I know I have 3 glow-plugs not working and my glow-plug light does not flash.

:P :P :o Is there no woodruff key on the crankshaft?

There are many many people who buy a TDi Shalaxy to tow large caravans with and they have no problems with overheating whilst towing in Southern Europe in summer. Whilst this is only my opinion, I can see no problem. Most of us have a problem getting our TDIs warmed up.....

Is anything else strange happening, lights getting brighter etc? Both the gauges use resistance to calculate the reading. If the alternator was running over-voltage it could cause them to read too high.

If you upload your image to Imageshack you will get a page up with the image on it and a load of boxes full of text. You need to select then copy the correct text string and paste into your reply. On this site you need the one that is in the first box below your image. http://img236.exs.cx/img236/3695/shack9ls.jpg

The switch is indeed a simple make-or-break affair. Well on the eariler models anyway, can't say for the older versions. Anyone got a EPC?

Perhaps the hooked it up to the computer and it found a fault to the door wiring as well as the relay problem.

More to the point, anyone actually confirm it existst on UK spec vehicles? Did lagging the pipes help any chap?

My MK1 Alhambra TDi takes an age to heat up. On the PD engines the thermostat was moved from the bottom front, next to the pump, up to the top rear.

I would agree with Seat Kid. Your vacuum comes from the inlet side somewhere after the MAF. If the pipe had come off or split then un-metered air will enter the inlet pipework and the engine will stall at idle as the fuel/air mixture will be too lean

The only thing that I can see on the vehicle schematics that is attached to the oil pan is the oil temperature sender.

Split the nut with an engineers chisel.

At the topleft of the fuse box there are 5 relays. Fuse 35 is 20amps and is located above them.

http://www.intapart.com/ford_-_page_2.htm

I don't know about the electronics of it but there are two solenoid valves connected to the engine vacuum system. One of them is connected directly to the turbo, another to the EGR valve. When I took the head off mine, these pipes (rubber with cotton braided shielding) were rotten and had to be changed.

It depends on the year your car was made. It makes it easier if you put that information into your profile.

I too have seen several Vauxhalls with inverted master cylinder seals after pad changes. Mostly older models like Novas and MK2 Astras, but enough not to take the chance.

sounds like a seal gone in the master cylinder (maybe contaminated with old fluid pushed back during brake change?) I have heard of master cylinder seals being inverted by fluid pushed back up when changing pads, but I don't know if it is a problem on VAG built vehicles.

The fill & bleed proceedure is to fill the bottle to the max mark and with the cap off run up to normal operating temperature and then for a further five minutes. Personally I would run it until the cooling fan came on as long as it was not boiling up. Allow the engine to go cold then top up the bottle and replace the cap.

That is so indicative of an airlock. The build-up of pressure in the airlock forces the coolant into the bottle, release the pressure and the water goes back into the block.

In my car club we regularly replace standard (airbag fitted) steering wheels with aftermarket (non airbag) items. I can assure you that it won't affect your insurance as: 1. The accident is the driver's fault, so the insurance won't pay compensation anyway. 2. The other driver is at fault so the other driver's insurer pays any compensation, so it does not affect your insurance company. 3. They are only SRS airbags anyway, the seat-belt will prevent most injuries. Whilst this is not relevent to side impact bags they won't be fitted to his car anyway. If airbags were an issue then they would be a testable item.

It WILL be an insurance issue though in the event of a mishap! I can assure you it won't. All you have to do is tell your insurer it has been de-activated. It will not affect your premium either.

Airbags are not an MOT tested item btw.

Check for corroded leads (battery terminals and the other ends and the lead it's self)