Masked Marauder

Remove the the bottom screws, http://www.bigtrucker.co.uk/gifs/headlamp_lower_screws.gif then the top two screws. http://www.bigtrucker.co.uk/gifs/headlamp_upper_screws.gif Remove the headlamp assembly.

You can get a special glow-plug tool, but a deep socket can be used. To check them, just hook them up to the battery and the tip should glow very quickly. Or you can just change them all anyway if your going to take them out....

Because if he says you can not because it is selling in the forums he will upset some members, the ones you are "helping." If he says it is not a problem, help away, then the other users who want the rules enforced will be upset. So in your post, suggesting that your inital motive is not to sell, but to help, you put anyone who has to decide the answer in a bit of a spot. If I was a moderator (I obviously am not) there would be no question about my decision. Perhaps in future it may be an idea to help by pointing out what is available, and leave any other information about pricing etc to PMs. That way you get the best of both.

Ah yes, but you can get lots of cursing for

Rear or side facing seats are not legaly required to be fitted with seat-belts. If a rear or sideways fitting seat is fitted with a seat-belt then it must be used when the vehicle is travelling in a forward direction.

As long as the airbag is connected back up correct before the battery is re-connected all should be fine. If the battery is re-connected before the bag is fitted back and plugged back in the airbag warning light will show and a trip to the dealers to get it reset will be required.

They should do, she has nothing else to do since the practice went to private patients only.

I drive Volvo trucks for a living. My partner is a dental nurse. I have been trained by Volvo to drive engines with variable vane turbochargers, my partner has not. I get an average of about 45 mpg, she gets about 35. Things to be carefull of are too early change downs and too late change ups. Always use the highest gear possible, all the torque is low down. Don't change down through the box when slowing down, leave it in the higher gear until you need to change down two or three gears. Harsh acceleration is not needed, the throttle position, engine revs, load, airflow etc are all detected by the ECU and the turbo vanes and fuel is then set for best torque for the job.

I think the cable must get kinked and if you wind it up with a loose cable it jams. When I had to get my spare changed, I wound it down. The tyre fitter was about to wind it back up after he changed the tyre, but I stopped him and did it my self. He had pushed the wheel under the car and the cable was kinking everywhere. I pulled it out and kept the cable tight and it was fine.

Are you sure this wire runs to the clock connector? You may well be right, but on some Galaxies, there is an extra wire that connects to the two-diode protected earth signal on the internal light. This earths when the light is on by either the integral switch or the courtesy light system. This extra wire is to stop the auto-dim function on the mirrors (where fitted) whilst the internal light is on. I should point out that my vehicle is a 98 Alhambra, the green & white wire is on the multi-plug that connects to the digital clock in the headlineing above the rear-view mirror.

OK, getting back to the timer issue. The un-used green and white wire on the clock connector is indeed the pull-up for the system, which is different to the UK spec one as there is an aditional pump under the rear of the car. As said before by someone, there is a battery under the seat with a split charge relay to keep it topped up. It uses the same thermostatic switch. So in theory it should be possible with a bit of re-wiring to sort this out. Whether the electric cooling pump in the engine compartment can be utilised for this is another matter though, as why would they fit another pump at the rear if it could? Indeed the only reference I can find to the engine compartment pump on the TIS is "After Running Pump" and is fitted only to V6 petrol engines where it is located at the right hand side of the engine near the coil. But as such a pump does exist and no doubt one could be sourced from the salvage yard. As winter bites I will consider this some more no doubt.

OK, my answer above is for 1998 to 2000

Under the driver's seat, covered with a bit of tape.

It also invalidates the unit's Thatcham II insurance status.

I had a set, lost them when I moved house though! I may be able to help, what is the problem?

I know a couple of people who have had very good results from Chips Away, but they are franchisees, so the standards of work may not be consistant.

I noticed the other night an unused wire and pin on the clock connector... The output I presume! I wonder what would happen if I connected 12v to it? Can you smell burning?

Achtung! Donner unt blitzen! Yes sorry for the misunderstanding chap, I was indeed refering to the original author, a German, aka a "Boxhead." No offence was intended towards yourself. Indeed I had in the past tried to run that page though a translator and failed, and did indeed find your post helpfull.

Mine came on yesterday morning and the car was toasty very quickly. Which was nice. But today was cold, but not cold enough. So a switch must be fitted. But is that all it takes, I know a boxhead wrote the page translated above, and the TIS shows a thermal switch, but ALL that text for "I fitted a switch!" Thoughts of a modified central heating timer and 12volt waterpump come to mind.....

OK, first let me say that I have prepared an award winning car. 1st. Orange Peel Effect. There are several reasons, all can and should be avoided in a professional workshop. Ultimately the absolute solution is correct "knocking back" at every stage of the job. 2nd. Mis-matched paint. Piss-poor matching skills and not blending in are the cause here. 3rd. Crap in the laquer. Nuff said on that. 4th. Paint too thick. No, No No! That is bullshit to be polite. In short they have cocked the job up. Everything says a bad job has been done and they know that to put it right is a full re-spray with a lot of preparation. And they don't want to do that. So what is your recourse? Difficult answer, because the contract is between them and the insurance company. That is why you should NEVER EVER use the insurance company's repairers, they will use third party parts, panels and paints. Legally your not obliged to. If your a member of the AA or RAC contact their legal assistance department for more help. Other than that take legal advice, a solicitor's letter is the best way to show you are serious.

I have this kit and it says in the list that it is suitable for Volkswagon 1.9 diesels, although I can not verify it. I have only used it on a 1.5 litre diesel.

http://www.pantoulier.de/Galaxy/index.html

Is it really that hard to change a sidelight bulb? I need to do one, but the whole front light assembly is only held in with 3 screws.....

Yep, I think it is a normal belt and it is tensioned by sliding the PAS pump.

When you first switch the car on the ECU does some self checks. So if the MAF was fine when you set off to Blackpool and the ECU detected an error in it's function on route, the the vehicle would go into limp-home mode, the same as if it was not connected. But when you re-connected it and switched on the self test was completed successfully and no fault on the way home so the engine performed successfully. The MAF may not be faulty, just a single, quick bad reading from it (or many of the other sensors) would give you the same symptoms.