Masked Marauder

Cat 1 is approved Alarm & Engine Immobiliser Cat1A is approved Alarm to be fitted with a Cat 2 immobiliser Cat 2 is only approved Engine Immobiliser Cat 3 is approved Physical Immobiliser i.e. Disclock etc. Cat 5 is approved Tracking Device/pager/Cat 1 Alarm

It is only a fail if the tank is leaking at the time of the test.

Liverpool Victoria Friendly Society, use the web site for a quick quote, but ring them up to buy. If you are a trade union member tell them, they may give a discount. I get 15% for being in the T&GWU. I am 40, I have full no-claims discount, am insured fully comp with business use and with my girlfriend on the cover too (she is 32.) Excess is

The hydrocarbons are a sign that the gasket has breached between a cylinder and the coolant waterways. This would be why the temperature soars under load. Get a second opinion by all means, but if they have really done a hydrocarbon test then the likelyhood is the head must come off.

Yes it can, your installer will connect one of the timed outputs to the lock side wire and another to the unlock side, and set the required delay. Then a press and hold on the remote will close everything and a press and hold on the other button will open everything. I am sure you do not need telling how useful that is in the summer.

Splits in the vacuum pipes are the most common problem.

And I have accidently replied in there too.

No I mean the garden type. The central lcoking depends on the car, if it has it fitted then generally then no, you do not need anything else.

I have a Ai606 in my shed that I trusted my Astra GTE with. Superb alarm, lots of functions, interfaces for add-ons like microwave sensors, and lots of spare outputs for things like total closure etc.

1. Masked 2. Northampton 3. 1998 Alhambra 110Tdi 4. 6 months 5. Would have another now as the other car if I had the money, but would never buy new. 6.

Get someone to pull the bonnet up as you pull the lever. Once you get it open, wind the rubber stops on the slam bar out a bit.

Fractured earth cable perhaps, then power is earthing through the other kit causing it to work.

Take the tempersture sensor off and put a 10amp mini-fuse in it's place. Once the coolant has warmed up the booster will then switch off.

As long as it is not the end-caps that have failed you have a few options, the best being to contact a company local to you who will re-manufacture the rad. The only drawback with this option is you may be without it for a couple of days if they don't have an exchange unit.

Check in the following order: Fuse Relay - Swap for a know good one Switch - Take the connector off the switch on the radiator and bridge the terminals with some wire and if the fan runs, it is a faulty switch. Most common cause of fan not running. Fan - Disconnect the plug and wire direct to 12v.

Jase, take the caps lock off.....

Just to clear the re-locking issue. Thatcham 1 alarms MUST re-lock the doors if a door is not opened within 30 seconds of the door being unlocked by remote control. Disabling this feature could void your insurance if the car got nicked and they found out. I locked my keys in a car once doing just this, unlocked the door, dropped the keys on the seat, shut the door. The door switch had not worked and detected the door had opened and the car promptly re-locked it's self. :( Of couse I can laugh about it now, but now until I sit in the car, the keys stay with me...

Well I saw a 6000 today and it looked Double DIN to me. I could be wrong though.

You need either someone with a VAG-COM setup or take it to the local VW dealers.

Absolutely not, the pump is driven by the auxiliary belt. You would need to remove the timing belt to do the job but the old one can go back on. It may be financially prudent to change the belt and tensioner whilst they are off though if you are near a belt change interval.

It looks like it is on the front at the bottom, behind the alternator. If so you will have to drain the coolant for sure.

It may well be on the front actually, I presumed the round thing in the picture was the brake servo. Now I have looked again, I doubt it is. It is on the front at the bottom behind the Air-Con compressor on earlier non-PD diesels.

I need a regas, who do you use and roughly how much do they charge to rain the gas & oil and refill?

No need to drain, the stat is in the plastic pipe at the top of the back of the engine, you will only lose a cupfull at the most.

Aye, the steering wheel should be clamped in the correct "straight ahead" position. To do this the steering should be allowed to centre its self whilst the car is rolling forwards. The wheels should then be aligned to the rear wheels. The guy clearly can not be arsed doing it properly. If he works for a mutiple/dealer complain in the strongest terms to the customer relations department.