Masked Marauder

I beg to differ, the speedometer is not a tested item. EDIT: Just checked my MOT Testers' Handbook and found this:

Headlights are about

from the German Swedish & French online shop: http://www.bigtrucker.co.uk/gifs/gsfoil.gif The number in the left hand column is the GSF part number and prices are + VAT.

I have a can of "Quantum Synta" right here in front of me, it's not Quantum PD. but it is the same Quantum. On the label on the back it says "Quantum is a registered trademark of VOLKSWAGEN Group United Kingdom Limited" Perhaps the manager should learn hypnotism. "Look into my eyes, into my eyes, not around my eyes. You will believe me that I don't have any knowledge of that oil. Three, two, one, your back in the room......"

Sounds like it is having problems switching layers, a cleaner may help, but it could be a problem with the focusing motor.

My ears are bleeding.......

Yes I agree, the anti car-jack feature is not an option on a MK1 model. I don't know about later models, but the remote central locking on a MK1 is very basic.

And if you really, really want electronic security then try to find the extra cash for a Toad Ai606.

The hub assembly should come off OK with a decent slide hammer.

In reality if you need to ask then you won't know how worn the shell is without using a micrometer or plastigauge anyway. And in my 24 years of engine rebuilding I have never seen a centre shell show the highest level of wear out of the set anyway. .

Do you have vents in the rooflining, as if so you have rear aircon. It is a single system with an extra evaporator in the back, it all fills up through the same connector. .

They were 12oz each IIRC. The gas will go in much quicker if you stand the can in a bowl of warm water as you fill the system up. .

Don't worry there will be no air in there. I had to put two whole cans into mine and it was still not over filled. I think you just need more gas, with R134a a little more pressure can make all the difference. No doubt the air con guy will say otherwise though! .

It only takes 4PSI to float the mains. In addition to this the oil pressure switch is at the top of the engine IIRC, so hot thin oil when the engine is warmed up would loose top pressure at idle too if worn mains were to blame, not just when the engine is cold. .

No dissent from me on this one. Whip off the belt and check the pully bearing by spinning and check for side to side movement.

I had the same problem when I had new rubber fitted to an Audi, one wheel was seeping out air and repeated attempts to seal the leak from the base of the valve failed. In the end I got so pissed off with it that I put in a can of instant spare and it ceased to be an issue there and then, it was fine even when the tyre was changed a couple of years later. .

Edit: the bottom line of this post should read oil pump. For some reason this daft device won't let me edit the last line! Once the car is started and been revved does the light stay off at idle even once the engine is fully warmed up?What about if you stop the engine when it is hot and leave it for say 15 mins? Does it rattle or is it ok? If it is ok then my money is on either a sticking oil pressure relief valve or if your engine has one, a failed oil control valve which is a one-way valve between the block and the head allowing the oil to all run back to the sump. It could also be a failing oil stop.

I have just re-read your original post and it sounds like warped discs.

Well the ABS is not supposed to work at low speeds anyway, but could this be an issue with the dual brake switch? If the heavy braking side is switching on with a light press then it could be causing the ABS to work during gentle braking. It is supposed to detect heavy braking for the system to work correctly.

The pedal pulsing may the ABS working, the question is if it is, then why? Is there any way the system can be disabled to rule it in/out?

As long as you are happy that no one is going to have access to the car with one of the missing keys chap....

Is the fuse popping immediately or after a few seconds Dave? If immediate you are most likely looking for a short to ground. If slow then look for arcing relays or stuck pump etc.

There may be a regular board user who has VAG-COM who is local to you who would be willing to help. But as we don't know where about you are as you have not put your location in your profile,then don't hold your breath waiting for offers

I am in the Hunstanton/Fennystanton area on a Mon Tues & Wed evening/night, but have no lap-top at the moment.

If you are worried about fuel consumption then buy and fit a boost gauge and try to stay out of the red area, or if you have a VV turbo try staying off boost altogether.