Masked Marauder

I concur, if the system performance is poor and there is still pressure in there then a DIY top-up may be an option. The kit from Halfords has a charge of oil and a leak-stopper that can help stop and prevent minor leaks. If the system pressure is non-existent then your not going to fix it by using any DIY products.

Well done chap, yet more money saved and more mystery removed!

Mine stays on all the time I think.....

Is that on the MKII? as i think mine needs more gas, its slightly cooler with AC on, but no where near as cold as it was when i bought it. MATT No, it sticks up at the left hand side of the slam panel on a MK2

Looking from the front it is top right and back in the engine compartment, below the wiper linkage.

There is an absolute fuel metering device in the pump, this is most likely what they suspect. It is driven by a stepper motor. It's failure should be flagged by VAG-COM etc though.

Yes, you can use Vag-Com to not only reset the service warning, but also change the service intervals.

Tensioner pully or waterpump bearing is my bet.

Clearly mis-described. Your ultimate right is to reject the goods, however you could be expected to take a reduction for wear and tear as they are now not in the exact condition you bought. How serious are the other problems? Chances are this car was damaged in transit or in the workshops, thats assuming it has only the garage regisered as a keeper and no mileage to speak of.

Surely a new set of bolts will sort this?

And even cheaper at a branch of GSF if you have one locally.

I would not waste money on fully synthetic, you will see no gains over semi-synthetic. We did a full study on this at my work, there was no increase in wear or increase in MPG. Our trial period was over a period of 100K miles.

The key needs two batteries and they are very common and easily sourced, look on eBay for them for pennies. They are type CR2016. I got some from this guy, his batteries are fresh, his prices are competitive and his postage costs realistic.

Failed CV tripod joint.

Push the pedal down and look up under the dash, you should see one or two plunger pins sticking down. Pull them fully out and let the pedal back up and that should be them reset. If this fails to work then you will need to replace the switch. If there is only one pin then it is a special switch which detects light pedal pressure (to switch off the cruise control) and heavier pressure to activate the brake lights. It is not hard to do and the switch is about

The company I work for trialed both Dual Fuel and LPG trucks about five years ago. We now use niether. I don't know the reason for the decision though, the work we do range would only be an issue on about 20% of routes so it must be something more than that.

Loose caliper bolt. They have to come off to do the disks, were new bolts and threadlock used when they went back on?

Loose calipers or sliders? Or a pad moving in the caliper because the anti-rattle spring is missing or fitted wrongly.

Casn I add to the above DO NOT be tempted to test the new horn button by connecting the battery and turning on the ignition with the airbag off. You will turn the airbag light on and will need it reset if you do.

The kit on eBay has twice as much gas and can be reused by buying cans of gas at

If it is only seized then you can easy sort it yourself in under an hour, it is a common fault as previously said.

My system was running with the suction side pressure at 8psi. Running, but not well. In hot weather if stuck in traffic it became heat-soaked and started heating the car instead of cooling it. I topped it up to 36psi using two full 340g cans of refrigerant and it has worked fine since, although the pressure will drop over time. But if I only have to top it up once a year with

After the system has stopped cooling, are the thick aircon pipes in the engine bay cool to touch or hot?

On the tops of the B pillars