Masked Marauder

The lights time-out anyway I think it is about a minute. The door switch boots are part number 1H0947565 Gasket for Door Contact at your local VeeDub dealer.

I don't think they are on MK1s

Look the guy wants to UPGRADE to a TDi. As said though chap, everything needs changed, engine, gearbox, dashboard, wiring, fuel system, ecu, throttle pedal, exhaust.....

The problem in sourcing replacements is the thickness of the arms. They are too wide for "regular" blades. I used a pair of 26 inch blades for a Volvo truck that I got for free......

It is a hardware interface & software to communicate between a PC and the cars data (OBDII) port. This allows you to change settings, reset faults, run diagnostics, enable features that are disabled on lower spec models etc. http://www.ross-tech.com/

Well the leak must be in the evaporator then, as it is all boxed in you won't see the dye. Methinks a sniff test of the air ducts is required.

Main dealers, bless them all! OK, I presume you recovered and reinserted the transponder chip? Superglue it in, they are not available separately from a new key blade. When you fitted the new batteries, did you change both of them, there are two, they are separated by metal plate, the second battery is underneath. If you need to re-program the remote then you need to unlock the car with the key in the drivers door. Open the door and close it again, and make sure all the other doors are closed. NOTE: Programing a remote de-programs all the other remotes paired with the car, you must re-program all the remotes at the same time. Turn the key in the driver's door lock to the right and hold it turned for half a second. Repeat this until the LED in the door stays lit. You now have a short time to program the remote to the car. Press and hold the unlock button on the remote and keep pressing it whilst you press the lock button 3 times. The remote LED & the door LED should flash five times. The door LED will come back on constantly lit. Repeat with all your other remotes. If you don't get all your remotes done before the door LED goes out then you have to start all over again. If your remote's LED flashes 5 times after programing but the car door one does not then the remote is not transmitting a signal. This is a common fault, they do just die, I don't know why they do this.

There is a slot that it fits into. Perhaps it is an idea to glue it in just in case the key ever comes apart. I have mine!

He never uses the torch as he is scared to go out after dark?

Beg to differ chap. I never touched the timing belt when I did my water pump.

No, it is not in the remote, it is in the horseshoe part of the key that the remote part clips into. it looks like this http://www.bigtrucker.co.uk/images/transponder.jpg

run the car hot and feel the hoses round the pump.

There should be a little black chip inside the key. It may have dropped out when you changed the batteries. You really need to find it as it is that that works the imobiliser, not the batteries. I will try to get some photos up in the morning so you understand what I am talking about.

I would disconnect it if it is connected...

IIRC it is purple with a black stripe, but I could be wrong.......

The batteries I got from the guy were fitted over 6 months ago and are still fine, so it does sound like a short circut.

I used to do some work for a freind in his computer shop. We had a stream of people asking advice on new PCs, but no matter what we did we could not convert the request into a sale. You could spend an hour talking to someone and they would just say that they would have a think and come back. Turned out the local Dixons was telling people who were asking for advice that we were the experts at advice, but they were the best at price, so go find out what they wanted from us and bring the spec sheet to them, and they would do a better deal!

The cruise control and the radio both use the gala pulse signal, the cruise control to know the speed of the vehicle and the radio for the auto volume up function (the radio gets louder the faster you get)

Open it again, remove the battery. You should now see a metal sheet under where the battery was, remove that and there is the other battery. You should not need to re-program, but if you do it is a simple procedure.

A mate of mine has a pair of them under the bunk in his truck. The heat the one that is set as a freezer gives off is unreal! He says it settles down though once it gets right down in temperature. He looked at LPG fridges but it was going to cause problems because of the hazardous goods he carries.

Yep. as above. It is not just an oil cap it is a seperator to take the oil vapour out of the breathers

Tyres have to be the same size on the same axle, it is perfectly reasonable and legal to have a slightly larger size on the rear. The size differences are minimal, I doubt you would even notice.

I fitted some new ones last week. I don't intend doing again for at least a year, regardless of if they start knocking again.

It only works if you hold the key in your left hand and press the buttons with your right whilst standing on your left leg with the right one draped over the wing mirror.....

Yes, just tried this and this is what works, not what I said above (which I got from the TIS) Your key will flash 5 times if it programs OK as does the door LED before coming back on constantly so you can program the next remote fob.