Masked Marauder

That is low mileage for a TDi. I would buy it for that from a dealer if it was a 110bhp, no worries. It should say that the engine number is AFNXXXXXX on the log-book if it is. As for fuel consumption you will be looking at about 45-50mpg. But if there is no service history for the 60K miles cambelt change then either get them to do it or get it done soon. Next one after that is 120K miles.

That is about spot on price wise for a private sale for a 110bhp where I am, but prices can vary a little around the country.

Or find someone locally who can help with your problem. Where are you located?

VAG offer a service to registered car repairers to buy genuine spares. They have their own, more comprehensive catalogue called ETOS. The picture is from there. All the part numbers can be used at any VAG dealer even for stuff that is not on their EKTA.

http://trevor.dynip.com/images/vacuumpipe.jpg That was a toughie, took me about 5 seconds. Where do they get the parts guys from? Was a Interpart today, had a look for you, but they cut the engines out and anything connected just gets ruined.

http://trevor.dynip.com/images/wiperparts.jpg Most parts are available IF you ask for the part by it's number.....

There is a product available that will seal small leaks, but I don't know how effective it would be in your case. I guess the only thing stopping a claim for FOD to your car is proving it to be FOD. If a big bit of metal were to fall off the back of a unmarked scrap tipper and end up sticking out the evaporator then it would be obvious it was accidental damage due to FOD. If something like that did happen to someone then the best thing to do would be ring your insurers and ask them what the situation is.

Yor timing belt (if you had one) would not slip anyway, or serious damage would occur. What you most likely hear is the auxililary drive belt slipping. They are easy to change on a 1 to 10 scale, even for the most basic DIYer.

The condenser is the one on the front of the radiator and it can fail by physical damage from debris. Indeed FOD is the most likely cause of a condenser failure. As for the compressor issue, there is a pressure switch that should turn the compressor off if there is too much or too little gas pressure.

The part number for the glow plug is 7D0 963 319 and can be ordered from any VW dealers. It is

It does indeed sound like a faulty vacuum pump. Locate the vacuum pipe from the servo back to the pump. Check if it has been creased or kinked and that the one way valve (if fitted) is working ok and not blocked.

I did! The neighbours thought it was hilarious.......

I know what it says. I also know of a large number of people who have been running PD TDis on B100 for over 100,000km with no problems or issues. Do a search, you may be surprised at the crap we are running our cars on at the moment.

If you want to clean your engine out try running it on 50% BioDiesel for a couple of tankfulls, or on 100% BioDiesel if you want a quick clean!

They have learned to put up with stupidity because I post on here all the time! Welcome to the forum, hang around and you will be surprised at the amount of useful knowledge that can be gleaned!

As an update, the module 01 error is a soleniod valve in the injection pump and this error has returned on driving the car this morning. As far as I can make out it can not be repaired as a DIY option, so other than checking the leads for a bad connection it looks like I have a trip to the breakers coming up.

2000 X reg MK 1. Sorry don't know what 2000.75 means. Post August 2000

http://volkswagen.msk.ru/engine/tdi-tech.pdf

My VAG-COM came this morning so I hooked up to the PC and got the following list of codes: The address 09 Faults cleared and did not return The address 01 codes cleared and the following one kept coming back 01268 - Quantity Adjuster (N146) 18-10 - Upper Limit - Intermittent But after trying clearing it with the engine off it cleared and did not come back when the engine was started. But WTF does it mean, I can find no information on the Net or the Ross-Tech site about it, can anyone enlighten me? Also there is no communication with the Aux Heater module. Does this mean there are two versions, one a dumb unit and one that logs faults?

A fiver says it is the aux belt pully bearing.

They come with the plunger all the way out, put pull it to check. There is an activation device built in that does something when it is turned in the keyhole. It is a tab under the pointed part of the bayonet fitting.

Hi MM Just checked under my drivers seat and have 2 blue 15a blade fuses, one was blown. Replaced and now all OK. Cheers. (1 fuse for each outlet - would never have found it myself!) According to the wiring diagram I have 0n the pre 2000.75 models there is one fuse for both outlets. Is yours post 2000.75?

Get an indipendant in to do the job, should be about

Ah right, you need one of these then http://www.car-air-conditioning-supplies.c...ome.php?cat=287