Masked Marauder

No, there is not, you will need a trolly jack and a jacking-bar. Or one side at at time as above.

They are required. The timing is critical.

Back on topic please chaps! Getting a bit of a spark when connecting a battery onto a modern car is quite normal though, there is a lot of kit that stays on with a small drain, alarms, radios, ecu etc. But a big fat spark is not good...... Halfords batteries are not the best in the world anyway, I prefer one with a charge indicator built in. Vauxhall batteries are excellent if somewhat expensive.

I did. And there could well be a small discharge causing the problem. But his new battery was flat when he bought it and he should take it back as Calcium batteries don't like going totally flat.

Calcium Alloy Batteries - the Pros and Cons Some typical calcium alloy battery characteristics, when compared with low antimonial batteries are: Lower self discharge rate, which increases shelf life and extends the charge period during shipping of vehicles. At the same temperature, shelf life periods are typically 2 months for low antimonial, 4 months for hybrid and 8 months for calcium / calcium. Lower water loss (gassing rate) under overcharging conditions. Test by VW-Europe showed the following comparative water loss rates: 1.7% antimony 5 to 7 grams per amphour Hybrid 3 to 5 grams per amphour Calcium / Calcium 1.5 to 2.5 grams per amphour Lower internal resistance which provides a small increase in CCA performance. Higher charge rate acceptance. Can result in reduced positive grid life under cycling conditions, and at elevated operating temperatures. Positive plate failure can be through grid corrosion or loss of positive active material. 'Barrier Layer Sulphation' problems occur if fully discharged (flat). The battery can then be difficult to recharge, requiring a higher voltage charge. Battery life may be reduced as a result of 'barrier layer sulphation' as full capacity may not be regained. The key to the life and performance of calcium / calcium MF batteries is in the tight control of the manufacturing process and positive plate grid alloy specifications. OE manufacturers fitting calcium / calcium batteries look for benefits in a longer 'stand' life (lower self discharge). This helps increase the probability of the vehicle starting after overseas shipment. Lower self discharge can help to offset standing (parasitic) electrical loads of, typically, 10 to 30 milliamps.

Yes, take it back, at that price it sounds like a Calcium "Mantainance Free" type. It is likely knackered, just tell them that it will not hold a charge.

As long as there is somewhere in the new remote fob that the transponder chip will fit then there should be no problem in that department.

If the battery you bought from Halfords is a Calcium or Hybrid then it is knackered If a calcium or Hybrid battery goes flat then it won't charge up again without using a very expensive pulse charger. So if it is as above (they have a 3 year warranty) then take it back, it has been on the shelf too long.

Well the ultasonics on mine work fine. If I stick my hand in the window the alarm goes off.

Or get the lip removed.

Has the fuse popped again? If so do you have young kids? If you do then look in the cigarette lighter socket for coins, silver paper etc....

Yes, the headlamp assembly retaining screws should only be loosened, as the assembly has slots that the screws clamp onto, not screw-holes.

Well according to the TIS you remove the headlight assembly, Open the bonnet and loosen the lower screws http://www.bigtrucker.co.uk/gifs/headlamp_lower_screws.gif then remove the upper screws http://www.bigtrucker.co.uk/gifs/headlamp_upper_screws.gif Next, Remove the assembly http://www.bigtrucker.co.uk/gifs/headlight_remove.gif Then take off the rear cover http://www.bigtrucker.co.uk/gifs/HDHeadlampRear.gif And then move the alignment lever from the 0 position to the T position http://www.bigtrucker.co.uk/Gifs/HDHeadlampMask.gif Finally you put it all back together again, reversing the instructions above.

Seat Kid is very old school in as much as he believes drivers should be familiar with their vehicle and, on a frequent basis, look over it for things that are obviously wrong. IIRC your anti-roll bar link was hanging off and dragging along the ground. You complained of a dragging noise, not a knock. If I hear anything dragging along the road I look to see what it is, as would Seat Kid. I think if you put a photo up asking "What is this, it was dragging along the ground" then Seat Kid would have given you a very different response. Like him, I too found it interesting that you looked on a web based forum for an answer to your problem before you even looked to see what was dragging along the ground. I am sure that you will find the forum helpful in the future, like I said though, some people are a bit more hands-on and expect a bit of investigation before a request for help.

Not to me, to the Donate button on the top of the page.......

No problemo. Thats

No, you can. Get a 10A mini fuse and unclip the temperature switch from the passenger side wiper linkage. Remove the switch from the connector and put the fuse in it's place. Start the car and it should fire up and run until the engine temperature is 75 degrees.

There have been instances of the ABS ring coming detached from the CV joint.

It could be any one of four different ones. I presume they are interchangable though.

I must agree with HJT the reception is fine with the built in ariel. I would check the connections to it as they can get dirty or become unclipped. Are you using an aftermarket radio? If so you will need a device that sends power down the ariel coax to the ariel booster. I have fitted a bee-sting for my DAB radio though. You will need to drop the head-lining at the back and pick your spot to drill making sure you are not going to go through a cross-member that supports the roof. You need to drill carefully, punch the starting point so the cutter will not skid (yes cutter, NOT a drill bit!). Then with your drill on it's lowest speed and some paraffin on your cutter to lubricate it you slowly cut the hole, it took me about 2 1/2 minutes to do that. I know that because that is how long I can hold my breath for....

You can reduce/turn off the EGR with VAG-COM and apparently that helps stop it all going to glue.

Aye, the one on the right is a phone antenna and the colours of the wires to the one on the left certainly suggest the connections for a car kit.

I seem to think I mentioned that earlier, arn't you paying attention ? :angry: Ah but you said the motors would need to be fitted, he says they are already there. Perhaps you need to pay more attention! :(

The end of the world is nigh!

Back to the question, is it possible. Well yes, everything is possible, it is just the amount of work required to do the job and the cost of the parts. If it was a simple job then I would not hesitate to to this to my car. But I have not looked into the complexities of it yet.