Masked Marauder

Thats because it has a VW engine....

That is indeed the dryer/receiver. It is held on by a couple of allen head bolts. Replacements are available from GSF,

Yes, you had every right to return the goods as "Not of Merchantable Quality"

Aye, front right on these engines. It makes it more easy to get at believe it or not!!

VAG-COM will tell you how much fuel is in the tank, but uses the sender in the tank, so if it is faulty it won't help.

Well the engine would not run with that much fuel going in. The Lambda would cut the fueling. Any leaks would show as that volume of fuel being lost would leave a mark. The only time I got through fuel anything like that quick was when a fuel pipe ruptured and the fuel was being pumped out. The car still ran OK though as there was still enough pressure for it to run. But a leak like that would show the minute the key was turned if the car was in a garage or on ramps. So the theft issue looks favourite right now.....

The remote sends a signal to program it into the car's system, not the other way round, there is no signal sent to the remote. So the remote flashes to say it completed it's transmission but the car does not receive it so does not flash back. So the remote is not working even though the LED is flashing as it is not sending a signal that can be received by the car. This is a common fault, I have two remotes that do this.

Ah yes, but if the risk is locking the keys in, you would only need a key to open the door to recover the other keys. So no need for a remote fob for it or a transponder chip. Indeed the lack of a transponder chip on a hidden key could well be a good idea as then someone can't start the car and drive off if they find it. So a key from any key cutter could do the job and would cost less than

http://www.speeding.co.uk/acatalog/Car_Acc..._Rings_159.html Scroll down to the bottom of the page, I think it is third item up.

No, they are mounted next to the rear view mirror and on the tailgate

Who gives one? DIY.

Cough! Actually that would be the inlet manifold......

When I changed my oil the copper washer had been crushed so much by over tightening that it was see-through. Lucky I have a box of assorted copper washers that I acquired from work.....

My 1998 has a small (10p sized) patch of rust on the tailgate, by the screen seal. Other than that it is the most rust-less car I have ever owned.

TBH, it was at the top of my "To Do" list. The car came with 3 months warranty, and there was more pressing things to do, was away on holiday etc. at the time. I was not too worried, if it snapped in warranty I would not have to fix it anyway. I was waiting for the first good days weather that coincided with my days off work. The belt did not wait! I said that I had had the car four months, it was actually three and a half. But thats life. All in it was about 10 hours of my time (including doing the head work) and

lol, well I had only had the car four months......

Snapped clean across the belt, no teeth stripped, rips or frays.

When I changed my belt after is snapped at 103K (The belt was probably the original) the tensioner & idler roller were absolutley smooth running and fine. Seemed a shame to bin them, but in the bin they must go. Now my aux belt tensioner was a different story........

Deja Vous?

German Swedish & French http://www.gsfcarparts.com/

The only way you can find what is causing a drain is by connecting an Amp meter between the battery and the lead and pulling the fuses/relays one at a time until you find the leak. Then you have to investigate where in that circuit the leak is.

Try phoning a windscreen fitter, they may be able to get them and let you have some for a small consideration.

Another old thread bumped to the top............

Because the engine in the bay of a Sharan is a pig to work on.

The most common upgrade sensor-wise seems to be microwave. You can set these so that if anyone comes too close to your car it sets off a quick chirp warning.