Topbloke

brings a whole new meaning to "I Pod" (i have a real one, not one of those)

stupid question i know but are the brake lights working ? ? :D

there is a small spring inside the latch assembly this breaks over time, the spring holds the catch in the open position, try comparing it with the other side , open the door and with a screw driver close the latch to the shut position (if you see what i mean) then pull the handle inside or outside and the latch should spring open with a positive action if it don't then the internall spring is broken , falling that a squirt with wd wont hurt, just as an after thought was it a cold frosty mornin , not unusual for mechanism to freeze especialy if its been jet washed

yes the idle air control valve and the idle stabilisation vale is one and the same thing, its not unusual for the idle air to get gummed up, remove wash in a little petrol/carbcleaner or wd at a push if it cures it great if it dont you wont have harmed it and you will haved rulled that out as a fault. it could have completely failed but as the problem comes and go's i would suggest that its gummed up . give it a go and let us know what happened pls

i used to "modify" the rear wipper blade/arm on the vectra estates i don't know if the gals are the same set up i will have a look and let you folks know

do you know any nurses :huh: or somebody that works with syringes , thats what i use to remove fluid from the master cyl and topping up

just to add my two penny's worth i would susspect the battery

i will have a look as well it must be available beru are a well established company. i am not doubting your word and i did not know you were in the trade :)

if you have removed the glowplug there should be a name and some numbers if you can give them to me i will try to crossreference it at work i would need makers name and any numbers

sorry try www.bba-reman.com

if you still need a ecu try a company www.bba-reman.co.uk not used them myself but come higly reccomended

removing these screws won't affect the aim these screws are for location of the headlamps only

whats to win its just a bit of banter

then i have to put my foot back on the pedal, select drive if im lucky, then get tooted at for taking to bloody long or the lighs have gone red or the gap on the roundabout has gone :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

same again i would think that its a dead spot within the peddle potentiometer it would show up on a dealer system check but not always show up on your mobile mech because he is only lighly to have a general code reader which is obd 1 or 2 and that will only pull up emmisions related faults

whats a hand brake its auto its not needed if it was not for the m o t's i would take the damn thing save weight and lower my fuel consumption

forgot to add that my car uses 4/6 brake bulbs per year but i put it down to being an auto and always on the brakes in town

sounds like the dredded brake switch fault ! but which one ! :(

it will only come on when the wheel starts to move with that fault, if it comes on go's out then lights up again without moving then it won't be a speed sensor

do's the light come on as soon as you start up then go out then come on when the vehicle starts moving, if so it will most likely be a sensor . if it go's out then comes on without moving then it will be something else possibly overcharge relay,brake switch eletric motor within the abs unit ! . if you can answer this for me i will try to give you further guidance :ph34r:

Do we have a fix then davewill ;)

davewill if you need further help with this pm me and i will help best as i can

the aircon will only work when the external temp is above a preset minnimum (dont know what this is but think its about 5 degs) i don't know if this is the same for cc, i do run the aircon as best as i can through the winter months but it all depends on outside temp

i will try to answer your question if the front brakes were worn low enough to trip the light then i would suspect that the new sensor loops (tiss what they are called) are faulty the way to test them will be dissconnect the new loops and with a small piece of wire stripped both ends connect into connectors both sides on the vehicle and the light should go out then pull one wire out and reconnect the pad wire if light comes back on then that loop is faulty if not then connect other loop and if light comes on that is the faulty loop, if you are not that fussed you can leave the wire in permanently this will not affect the performance or safety of the vehicle but it will not give a warning when the pads are low ie 20k miles from now . all the above is only to be used if the brke fluid level is correct it may be low after the pads have been changed depending on how he changed the pads!!!!! hope this helps ;) :angry:

it was only a pointer in that direction a torch a extending / retractable neck and some luck. happy huntting