Topbloke

i got around 22k miles on my 2020's and a lot of people that i have spoken to do so also, so either you are heavy footed :huh: or there is an underlying problem that should be addressed before you go to far on a new set of tyres

may be worth taking a few pics prior to it going in just in case !!!!!!!

A B S light should come on when the ignition is first turned on, then it should go out, if it go's out then comes on there is a problem i can confirm that a vehicle fitted with ABS must work in this order unless stated otherwise on the MOT Tester's guide, if the light do's not come on then the vehicle will fail said MOT .get as many facts correct before going back to the garage point out to them that you have done your home work and ask for the faulty items to be rectified at there exspense or demand your money back (although they may call your bluff ) and you will end up with no vehicle I am an MOT tester and if you wish to discuss this further pm me and i will help as much as possible.

i have a late 98 on a s plate (nov 98) and all i have is a remote key and two ordinary keys with the immobliser chip embedded within the key only advice that i can offer is make sure all keys given will fit and start the car, as a spare key but no chip or uncoded wont get you very far, just into the vehicle ;)

unsure whether there are two switches ritted to your vehicle same place but further up

when it don't start can you here the fuel pump running either when you just put the ignition on (only runs for a few seconds) or while cranking, you should here a high pitch buzz, the only other suggestion would be a crankshaft position sensor not easy to diagnose unless you are a keen amature ! pm me if you are up for it.

refererence h i d lights and washer systems and mot's, they are not part of the mot what i mean to say is, lights working, aim correct thats it.

watch out for airlocks though !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

for further infomation try www.rydertowing.co.uk great source for information i had a problem with tow bar electrics on a customers car and had not come across the relays before it was on a merc and had a lights test system same as gals because you splice into the wireing and then plug in the trailer it senses a volt drop and warns you of a bulb failure by having the relays with a seperate power suply the signal comes from the bulb that is lit ie brakes this switches the relay and the bulb in the trailer gets a signal from the relay which has its own power source, if you need a power supply try the rear cig lighter or if you have courtesy lights in the rear take a fused feed from one of them

the cassette is already centered by the locking pin before you fit the steering wheel, so winding the cassette nearly three turns would put it at almost at the end of its travel before the steering wheel even turns , this is okay if you always turn in one direction (not practical me thinks) great for MK though !!!!!!!

check the sensor rings around each cv joint they are made of aluminium, the joints as cast and they rust causing the rings to split giving a false reading then putting light on

general rule off thumb is max 10% of fuel capacity ie 70 litre tank max 7 litres of incorect fuel unless hdi then no mix at all. as already said should be no probs but use 1/4 tank and refill to brim with correct fuel (you are a brave man to admit that you had dropped a clanger) hope that you dont get to much grief from friends for doing it :D :D :lol: :lol:

I had same fault on my gal replaced the slipring/clockspring, reset the control unit light when out, possible faulty unit how was it fitted and by whom steering has to be centred as the slipring will only allow a certain number of turns left and right ( by slip ring i assume you mean the black circular unit behind the steering wheel which contains a ribbon ) if your man has access to vag com then he should be able to actually look at the readings given by the clock spring

need to know some more info have you or anyone else for that matter changed any bulbs recently ? possible back feed when brake pedal pressed, do the rear and front lights all work correctly with and without the brake pedal being pressed particular attention to brightness/dimmness or another lamp coming on dimly. try wiggling the hand brake lever in the off position there is a switch underthere that can become loose. although there was no sensor loop's on the pads there may still be the wireing tucked up somewhere that some previous owner has modified and causing problems that should be enough to be getting on with !!!!!!!!!!!!! :(

the code reader will only read any emmision related code and then it is a best guess at what exactly the fault is , very basic but that's reflected in the price Perhaps those of us that have vag com could get in touch with the moderator if they were prepared to donate some time and their laptops to those that have a problem if there were enough people and a list was compiled it could benefit all !

possible faulty switch not un-heard of on gals etc, the upper brake lights are led's so draw less power and come on quicker, as i said possible switch fault . the switch is dismantable (is that a word) clean the contacts and refit but is only a temp repair

it should not make any difference what dealer you take it to, they should honour the warranty even if you dont have physical proof ( receipt's),however i think you would only get warranty from when the replacement disc's were fitted (you dont get one years warranty then replace them, then another year's warranty , you only get the remaining time ) that said there is possibly an underlying problem and it was not picked up by your other dealer so it may be worth giveing another dealer a chance.In answer to your last question any fraud dealer should give you a contact number .

i dont know what system they are using but they should be able to do what is called a snapshot, that is drive the vehicle with the system connected and it should be able to record all that is happening, when the problem occurs it should be able to capture the data and he should be able to dechiper what the problem is, i know that this may take up his precious time but it all depends on what sort of service he wishes to give his customers and the quality of his tool (ohh matron). a fault code should be treated as a guide to what the problem is but not always. the problem will occur once in a jouney a code may or maynot register then when you turn the ignition off then back on it do's a self check every things back where it should be and disregaurds an previous fault it may not even register as a fault !

okay here comes the science bit , common rail diesels refer to (guess what) a rail full of diesel just the same as a petrol but at an incredible pressure approx 300 bar yup thats right, the fuel is lifted from the tank at a low pressure up to the filter then to a high pressure pump then on to the rail from there to the injectors which are electrically opened via an ecu (electronic control unit ) this gives lots of benefits, the higher pressure gives better atomisation of the fuel (very fine spray) and the pump is very quiet and allows precise ammounts off fuel to be injected giveing great economy, most of the noise from an older diesel (not common rail) is the pump building the pressure up to an high enough pressure to open the mechanical injector. The common rail refers to a rail that supplys fuel to all injectors instead of individual pipes from the pump. hope this helps

there is a multi plug fitted on to the range motor locate the motor and while it is making the noise dissconect if it stops it will be the range motor ! have had these fail before but not on gals sharans bamma's

i have changed them on various vauxhall and they are complete b******s to do and get the seat material to look like normal,my advice would be to find a seat trimmer via yellow pages :(

could look in the wheel arch and see if any wires are there and how many, one would be brake pad sensor the other abs sensor

cheap ! i thought you said it rattled !!!!!!!!!

further to my previous post i just had a quick look at the set up and its the same as the vectra's so here go's. remove the rear arm complete, on the reverse of the arm their is a spring and a metal clip (sorry best description i can think off) remove the clip and place this in a vice tighten the vice so that the ends of the clip are nearer together (doe's this make sense) but do not go to mad, reconnect the clip onto the arm and then connect the sping, if you have to stretch the spring to get it on all the better, reconnect the arm to the motor, reset at the correct angle at give it a whirl . This was used as a fix as i said previously on the vectras what it doe's is increase the pressure of the arm on the rear screen . If i get a chance over the weekend i will try to take some photo's and then see if i can get them on here !

my mk1 has heated mirrors and not stating the obvious they only work when the heated front screen is on so assuming you have a heated screen they should work