Topbloke

there have been various question's about the same problem try searching for threads when you do find them it seem's that curtain wire is the best for clearing them out

i have got 22k on my front's and they need changeing but the back's are like new thought about changeing front to rear but don;t think i could afford to change all at the same time so i need a cheap replacement any idea's where i can get some been quoted

the problem could also be a problem with the heater motor resistor causeing high resistance ! and seeing that its near the pollen filter and drains there could be dampness causeing eletrical problems. on no that can't be right shalaxies with electric problems !!!!!!!!

when does this happen, prior to starting engine ? engine starts then stops ? engine runs turn of then no restart ? engine hot/cold? how long before restart set time ie 5 mins, an inderterminate time, where does the beep come from ? does the light in door flash at same time ? dont know how easy it is to get at injectors but when spark goes worth check to see if power at injector normaly has live feed with ignition on but some only live when cranking the ecu switches the other wire on and off if you get live and earth switching the it won't be cranksensor to test earth switcing you need a test probe with l e d in. clip probe wire to live and probe into injector plug then crank should pulse on and of . final question what area of countrie are you in

okay here goe's, disconect crank sensor wire, could be two wire/terminal or three. multimeter set on volts ac, asumming that you are probing the sensor get some one to crank engine you should get at least .5 ac volts rising, next test, meter set at ohms resistance if two pin sensor aprrox 12.7 ohms should get same for the three pin but there is a slight difference the third wire is a screen wire and there should be open circut between terminal 1/2 and 2/3 but resistance through 1+3 . this figure is only a ball park figure as i have said i can't find the exact figure. what is the problem exactly , what makes you think the fault is the sensor. let me know how you get on ! ! !

I to have a problem with my passenger front speaker i removed my radio and found that if you tweak the ribbon connection at the rear of the radio it fixed it but only temporaraly i ended wedgeing it with a small peice of card

martin is correct there should be some fuse's or is that fuse i in the space below passenger seat

I spotted you question last night and have been trying to find exact figures. i can tell you how but not a lot of good without exact figure, perhaps some kind soul out there with a tis cd could help but i will keep looking and keep you posted :)

I checked out my cambelt book, It say's 60k for all sharan's galaxy's and seats up to and including 2001my ,the only difference from ford to seat's and vee dubs was that the belt was to be checked at 20k intervals and the width of the belts was no less than 22mm wide and the tensioner was to be changed at 120k's so thats 60 for fords, 20k checks for seat's and vee dub's with replacement at 60k and new tensioner these are a direct quote from Autodata cambelt book 2001. :)

i will try and remember to check in my cambelt book it could depend on what hp what year and even a chassis break involved, i would say contact the dealers but they tend to be very hit and miss and i would not want to be told 60k it let go at 55k then take it to dealer for warranty then find the bloke had left that told you 60k, is there not any thing definite in the service book they are usually up to date when the vehicle was produced

as far as regards as to when it needs changeing it's the recomended time or just before it go'es clatter clatter bang. as for 80k are you sure they are talking miles not km's :lol:

best place is the cubby holes under front seats, rattle could well be antiroll bar links, try searching for previos threads, congratulations on joining the forum and welcome to fuel guzzling petrol galaxies

brakes will function okay, it is a warning that the abs is not functioning correctly but is perfectly okay to drive :D

there is also a fuel pump inertia switch as well if its a petrol version . so if you do decide to put anything in there be carefull you don't knock it or restrict access to it it can some times be sensitive

my ghia came with the head unit all the wiring but no changer tight or what anyway i purchased a sony 6 disc mulitchanger went to my local audio shop and ordered the box of tricks that converts ford to sony speak, removed the box fitted the changer plugged the wires in luvlly jubbly. :D

ta very much i think you should recieve my address soon let me know if it son't turn up please :o

there is a short term fix. if the ball joint is okay and the nylon bush is worn you can purchase some metal putty put the bush on the ball and put some putty around the nylon bush i use this stuff all the time you can drill it mould it it has loads of use's (no i don't have shares with the maker) .this may bye you some time until you can source a cheaper unit

many thanks for the feed back .i could do with the full list of codes if possible

Has any one out there got a list of the trouble codes relevant to the fords, I accessed a ecu yesterday it came up with code p1130+p1131 manafacture's specific codes but i was unable to find out what they refer to any help would be appreciated. I don't know if the tis cd has these codes.

wicked wheels are very good but a tad exspensive they only tend to repair minor damage and srapes. the price of geting them repainted may be more than picking up a second hand set unless you know some one with a bead blaster and fancy having a go yourself :D

sounds like the heater motor resistor , but i don't know where exactly it is situated may be worth a search to see if there is a previous thread :D

so glad that you managed to fix it and glad to be of help, by the way did i mention the consultation fee's :D

i have a 2.3 auto and don't run the aircon unless its really hot or when the screen gets misted . i don't know how much extra fuel it uses, i am to scaried to work it out its all down to pesonel tastes but you need to run the system aleast once a week for at least 5 mins but my system will not work below 5 degrees i think it is the same for all the fords bit of a pain durring the wet cold winters just when you needs it most

the replacement of the brake fluid is an pain I use a large syringe with a long piece of tube, washer pipe bore size but it depends how big your syringe is ,suck out as much as you can refill with new with syringe then bleed each brake in turn starting at the furthest away working towards the nearest topping up each time you swap . If you need a syringe try a nurse ;)

21mm min thickness for fronts 8 for rears, i would measure first then make my own mind up . it all depends what price you put on safety daft not putting new disc's when pads changed and disc's that badly worn.did they give you an actual thickness ?