Topbloke

take it back to them next year and when they fail them again tell them you had it done last year by them and they should refer to the said section 2.5 :lol: :D :D

Below is an statement issued by VOSA with regards to front suspension free play The front suspension on several types of Ford vehicle has been the cause of a rising number of queries to VOSA, but the following vehicle specific information should help you out. John Stephenson reports Testers of certain Ford Galaxy (1994 onwards), Ka (1997 onwards) and Fiesta (1996 to 2002) cars have faced a difficult situation when they've come to test the vehicles front suspension: some of these vehicles display what could be considered 'excessive movement' with the suspension hanging free. What to expect The front suspension top mountings on these vehicles are designed to self locate in the body as the vehicle weight is applied. There should be no free movement in these components when the vehicle is in its normal operating condition, with all four wheels on the ground. However a certain amount of movement in all directions (vertical,lateral and longitudinal) is normal if the vehicle is inspected with the wheels clear of the ground . In this position , the maximum acceptable movement is 10mm vertically and 6mm laterally and longitudinally. This amount of movement is clearly in excess of what a tester would normally expect from componements of this type and could result in a incorrect assessment being made, even though the component clearly falls within the manufacturers tolerance. As an indication , top mount assemblies which have more movement than they were designed for exhibit 'knock' when the vehicle is driven at low speed , for example, over roller brake testers or onto ramps. This information hes been provided by the manufacturers. You should take it into account when you carry out an inspection using the methods defined in the relevant subsections of section 2.5 of the MOT Inspection Manual. The above statement was issued in Matters of Testing (april edition) which is an internal publication for mot testers ,I believe that a forum member is haveing a similar problem at the moment, I hope this may be of some use to forum members in the future

sounds like it could be either but best guess woulds be bearing as cv's don't tend to make noises unless on full lock get it checked pronto as further damage will occur B) :unsure: :unsure:

Don't like to say it but " told you so " :unsure: B) :unsure: B)

sounds like the starter not engaging correctly could just be dirt/dust on the shaft ,you would need to remove to check if it looks clean and the bearing in the end of the starter looks okay then i would say that a new starter is required <_< :unsure: :unsure:

the tdi manifold/ plennum chamber does get very gummed up try a search this has been covered, they are also prone to maf sensor faults again try searching the garage may have checked the codes but as you say they aint that clued up easy test for the maf sensor is disconect and see if there is any noticeable difference, worth checking the air filter/air trunking for obstructions,and also check to see if any pipes are off and the old chesnut the brake light switch/bulbs to make sure that the bulbs are not on all the time

if you can start the vehicle by bypassing the ing switch (with your bit of wire) then it cannot be a bad earth the only check that is left is to see if you get any power down the signal wire to the starter (the one the bit of wire is connected to ) my best guess would be switch as it aint the starter as proved by the wire, possibly inhibitor switch because you are bypassing this by giveing the starter a direct feed, proof would be to disconect the wires on the inhibitor and join them together then see if it will start via the key, please take care that the vehicle is in nuetral or park when you do this as the vehicle will if it starts take off due to you bypassing this safty device :lol: :D :D pm me if you need further help Regards Tb

try a search as i have covered this in depth previously with the ohm's readings :D :D B)

if the ecu detect's a fault, ie brake light switch, it gets rather confused as you accelerate but the signal from the switch is saying that you are slowing down and as a result it limits the power output usually around the 2500 rpm area , first fix the switch or switches as there are two depending which model then road test to see if power loss is still there

iirc the light flashing double speed means that the chip in the key is not being recognised by the immobiliser on the ign barrel, has the key been droped / fallen apart/taken apart to replace batterys. but i would have thought that the dealer should know this (then maybe not) however if there are no faults showing on the code reader the it can only be lack of fuel or ignition

Hi ian , i know that the vw T4's do make this noise if you drive with the handbrake even slightly on so perhaps this is the same on yours try it and see !!!!!!!!!!!! :angry: :) :)

i own the same spec model and i am surprised by the lack of get up n go just thought it was normal ,had car from 3 years old but had only done 850 miles (no thats not a typo) and has been same all along please let us/me know if you find anything

yep sounds like air to me as well, will proberly need a full bleed so they may as well change all of it at the same time

snap on supplied me a 76mm oil filter remover for mercs,bm's sharans etc but have used a bike chain thing before but it scared the hell out of me cos i did not need the stress of breaking it but its the best i had at the time , the snap on kit cost me the grand sum of a tenner (iirc) will give you the part number if you want it and know some one whom uses a dealer!!!!!!!!!!!!

try searching for abs as there are loads of threads about it, but as a rule, ignition on abs light on then go's out move vehicle and light comes on its a sensor fault ie three wheel sensors reading 20mph other sensor reads 0 mph hence implausable signal !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! . if you have vag com you should be able to read what each wheel is doing in mph , possible causes are speed sensor u/s, odd size tyres ie one brand new three other nearly on limmits or any combination off , abs ring on cv joint cracked (ring is ali ,cv steel cv rust affected swells abs ring snaps)

were the pads a good quality , i know that they fit what they want and do it for a price and you only get what your given but there is a lot of difference between brake linnings ie hard compound, soft ,etc you could ask what make of pad were fitted ,ie brake master, girling, ferrodo etc, the garage that i work for fit the cheapest that they can get and the customer has no choice. personaly i would take the car back and ask them to try a different make off pad ,maybe even go for a genuine set from a dealer .The garage can get them for you and still make a profit but it will cost more, however what price can you put on a safety item like brakes

i have had experience of the impeller breaking up on the golfs water pump (which is a known problem) i dont know if this is the same pump as used in the seats,that said i would change the thermostat first :D

i may be just having a dim moment but what are you asking for, the colors of the wiring on the car for sidelights etc or are you asking what wires to connect to the cars harnes

sorry about that just looked at mine and it seems to be bonded, on do you not have the hinges on tha new glass (silly question because you would not ask how they come of would you). perhaps some one with a parts cd could help you out with a part number :o

if you are talking mk 1 then there is a screw through a hole in the glass with a small rubber gasket

the codes will have to be cleared you can try disconeccting the battery for ten mins but i dont think that will do anything

check brake lights are working first as this is a common fault and end up with either 2 bulbs or a switch or both :rolleyes:

on the c pillar is a black plastic trim this will need to be removed, its only stuck on with thick double sided tape and can be pulled of fairly easily if you warm the trim with a hair dryer, behind there are two screws/bolts , its really a two person job but can be done on your own if you are brave :rolleyes:

you would need to get the tracking done with somebody whom could check the camber/caster angles, as i would bet that somthing is bent some where and this would show it up . I use a company called Pro-align they have franchises all over the place so you may be lucky and have one near you, tell them exactly what your problem is and they should point you in the right direction (pun intended )

aa patrols only have access to trouble codes (thats only on petrols,as diesels dont have to conform to obd 2 untill 2006) also the patrols would not know the codes let alone know how to program best bet is to find out the codes and then put a question out for any one in your area with vag com to program it with a small gratuity