Topbloke

i think wires are crossed the plug is mild steel but the sump is ali

it may just need the battery disconected which is easy if you have all the codes for the radio etc but it might also be a broken wire in the tailgate flexi bit with the rubber boot ( you know what i mean) it has been known

sumps made of ali are alittle bit prone to striping but are repairable insitu, it needs drilling out to a larger size then retaping, then a helicoil fitting, not very difficult in itself but if a muppet managed to strip it i sure as hell would not let him near my car with a drill and all that swarf

you should have recieved an emmisions pass sheet that would give the readings it you did not ask tyhem for it was the car running okay after you picked it up (silly question) the sensor will not cause a missfire per sey but it could tell the ecu to lean of also if the sensor was us for how long ! this could also cause a cat problem . keep me posted please

just a thought that it could be a partialy blocked exhaust ( cat collapsed) you could try seing how much presure there is at the tail pipe (might be a little hot though ) just on tickover there should be enough pressure after a little while to push your hand off if you dont fancy that run it into the garage and get them to do an emmision's check should be about right as you have had a new sensor it they do a full cat test that will confirm any amount of problems ,weak running (air leak ) rich mixture (temp sensor ) any chance off some feed back as its good to know and store in the memory bank

you may find the part number on the reverse side of the trim there may be several numbers one should be part number and other denotes what its made off for recycling purposes

currently there are no rules regading the air bag light and mot's but that could all change although it is a safety thing much as abs but abs light on fails mot but not airbag how strange :rolleyes:

if the high level one comes on it must be wired through the other switch perhaps some kind sole could look at the wirring diagrams and see if that is correct the switches are usually a twist fit iirc although i am a little worried when you said that you removed the dash please explain :(

i also had one and it fell of when i pulled it ooopps wrong site :(

there are two switches on the brake pedal one for the brake lights one for the ecu if the high level brake light works the one would assume that the switch must be okay which would suggest that the bulbs are u/s there are various threads on the forum with this problem and it is not unknown for the switches to stick the switches are very easy to change and are about 10 12 quid each some people have had success spraying with wd 40 etc

the light should come on when the ignition is first turned on then go out when it has done its self test to see if it is operating you could try and see if the abs actually works on some gravel etc if it works it surely can only be a bulb failure if it don't then time to start checking fuse's the abs system is not connected to the brake pads at all there is a sensor in each hub that detects the wheel speed and if it senses that one is less that the others it signals the abs ecu to release brake presure in that brake line that is why the pedal pulses under your foot when it is operational

don't now what exactly it is but it is surposed to look like that i think it is a valve of some sort and have seen plenty that look the same on various other models trust me :(

ta i will buy a new sensor and swap them around god help me if two sensors have gone down

many thanks what i was looking for was a resistance or a voltage to check he only has rears, bumper has slight damage and if i remove the sensor where the damage is it stll sounds constant

no no towbar

there are various types of coil packs and also a unit called a dis pack if you look at the posting v6 misfire you can see what the look like . the dis pack is short for distributor less ignition system the dis pack is triggered via the ecu and is an attempt to do away with a coil an ignition amplifier and a methord of knowing when to fire ie points. the individual coil over plug is just a variation on this and the system used on the 2.3 is 1 coil over with another plug lead on it, they normaly fire as required in each cylinder but the other plug that is not on its power stroke gets a spark as well helping to ignite any residual unburnt fuel in that cylinder causeing less polution. hope this make sense and not cofused you further :o

doe's anybody know how to test these type of sensor, my mates are going constant as soon as you select reverse i dont even know how they work i know the principle but would appreciate some more input

the pan that they are refering to is also known as a s##t shield and is to stop road dirt etc entering the enginebay, neither pipe should vent to air, the pipes should go to the manifold and the fuel tank, due to eec regs fuel tanks are not allowed to vent to the atmosphere so they take fumes from the tank, gathered in the carbon cannister,then via the valve previously mentioned to the manifold,was the fuel filter changed is this leaking is the fuel tank leaking i still would suspect the carbon canister and associated pipeing as you may have disturbed something :o

have you had a good look at the wirring in the boot iirc alot of manafactures fitted a extra connector in the rear harness to take a dealer fit towbar wireing if so the wires should be there and just a case of connection . if it is there it may be taped up and not to obvious

it could have been a airlock but three pints is a little excessive it is a bit worrying though using that ammount of water,did the vehicle overheat prior to the water pump failure and was it leaking or just noisey . no point putting in a sealant if there is no water loss water only disappears two ways from an engine either leaks or it gets used internally (headgasket) and thence through the exhaust as steam. i would be inclined to use it but keep a close eye on the gauge at all times and the water level daily but don't get paranoid about it :lol:

so glad that you are impessed its very difficult to diagnose via foroms and it was a general direction to go trouble is dont very often get any feedback

Has the garage said exactly what is wrong with the head, is it twisted or has it corroded / cracked if it has twised/warped by how much, you could speak to a local machine shop to see how much to rework it or they may exchange it much the same if its cracked they can machine it, fill with new and then remachine it. don't just accept what they say unless you trust them implicitly, you could pick up an engine from a accident damaged vehicle but its a bit hit and miss on the quality you would get some type of warranty with it but not long, may be worth a call to some breakers to see what the availability is and price.interpart are a fairly good company they are on the net find there page fill in the online form and they will contact you if and when they have the part in stock

so thats were i have been going wrong with all those over heated car's on the hard shoulder . The stats can fail either way and is far easier to change than a pump not only that if they use the plastic housings that they us on the later vee dubs then the plastic breaks internally allowing the pin to move and not the two stage stat causeing over heating. my petol galaxy did fail open i grant you, cos it took ages to get to working temp, and they are realy easy to change on the 2.3 engine

i think that you will need to go to an aircon specialist to check it out it could be a low presure problem ie the gas has all gone or it could be a compresor fault in both cases you would need there skills so best bite the bullet and ask for a quote first good luck :(

short term fix only i'm afraid wurth make a fantastic sealer but a tad expensive at