Topbloke

possibly dodgey inertia switch in the passenger seat cubby hole tap it with screwdriver handle then push button back down

i know that it is easy to say after you have changed everything, but get the rad flow tested , talking to a rad man the other day he said that its not uncommon for the ali rads to loose there cooling ability due to corosion of the fins on the out side ,

sounds like a bad earth, but where !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

there are problems with the tyre not sealing on the bead this is what you should be looking at , there is a bead seal type of glue which we use at work that is painted around the rim where the tyre bead sits and if that dont work its a pourous rim, but i have never come across it before (but then i dont work in a tyre fit place) your tyre man should know about this glue as mentioned pry remove wheel from car, lay tyre flat and put water/ fairy liquid mix around where the tyre meets the rim , any bubbles and thats your problem

most probbably the brake switch

the damage to the side wall should only "fail" if it is a deep cut that go's down as far as the cords how ever if a large chunk has been taken out there may be structual damage to the tyre which may fail later

could possibly be an earth problem, is there a earth strap on the gearbox, was the battery removed to get at the topbolts for the g/box has the main earth lead not been tightenend/dirty where it bolts to the chassis/ engine

okay easy answer is its going to almost definatley a sensor , first easy check is to look at the abs rings on the front cv joints (on the end of the driveshaft, wheel end) they have a habit of snaping if they are okay time to get the multimeter out and test each sensor indevidually (if you do a search you should find the resistances (i posted them before so you could narrow the search by looking at my posts)

normal way of telling with a vauxhall is to look at the rubber seal around the ing barrel if its got one and has a white dot on it it has an immobliser fitted another way is to wrap the key handle in silver foil mr kipling cake base is good if engine managment light flashes then its got an immobiliser

afraid its another classic brake light switch symptom :) B) B)

possibly a auxillary waterpump that runs after the engine stop's to help elimminate hot spots in the engine as for the clunk no idea

if the light comes on and stays on even without moving then it will not be a sensor problem, therefor you need to access the ecu vie vag com or equivelent

When you or I change the pads the linning is relatively soft and the disc unless new is not a completely flat surface they have to bed in as you say but the pads need to heat up and go realy hard ,if you read the bumf that comes with pads they advise gentle progresive braking , They will get better over time trust me

usually as a temp repair a good squirt of wd40 down the channels , drop the window as far as possible then copious amounts of, then work window up and down

p2k when do's the light come on , straigh away or only after the car starts moving

the pipes you describe carry air / exhaust gas's so no problem of fluid loss

p2k try a search as this has been covered soooooooooooooooooo many times , the guy that came round is an ass unless he's family then he is a nice bloke but is talking out of his ass

as you mention in your post it (wheel wobble) happens under braking, the easy way to check this would run the vehicle around to your friendly mot station explain the problem to the tester (not the office wally ) and ask him if he would mind putting the car on the brake tester, this should show any fluctuation under light braking , i am sure that he would like to help especialy if you wave a fiver under his nose, if its not the brakes it could be an track rod end or a ball joint but my money would be disc's

sounds as if the wireing harness is moving about under extreme load and has worn through a wire and is earthing, as mentioned start by checking the wireing from the alternator paying attension to the routeing of the wire with regards to it rubbing, also a broken/tight wires . happy hunting

nice to see a positive outcome although it still remains to be seen how much it will cost you, best advice i can offer is remain calm and discuss rationally with the manager and try to get a price that is acceptable to you, may even be worth a phone call to ford uk customer help desk and ask if this is a known problem come to that may be worth a call to vw seeing that its a vw engine and ask the same . if it is a known prob then point this out to the manager at your garage. best of luck. :lol: :o

nice to see a positive outcome although it still remains to be seen how much it will cost you, best advice i can offer is remain calm and discuss rationally with the manager and try to get a price that is acceptable to you, may even be worth a phone call to ford uk customer help desk and ask if this is a known problem come to that may be worth a call to vw seeing that its a vw engine and ask the same . if it is a known prob then point this out to the manager at your garage. best of luck. :lol: :o

i think that you have a possible bad earth, possibly engine to chassis or chassis to battery, usual tell tale sign is dash gauges "jumping about" if you have a set of jumpleads try connecting one lead to the earth post on the battery and connect the other end to a good clean place on the engine/gearbox see if that makes any difference if not try the same again but instead of connecting to engine/gearbox try the chassis "bonnet catch is good !" try that if still no good then get the alt checked out :lol:

i was not advising to go back and complain now but if they try to fail them next time, i would think that you are in the "trade" yourself from your comments

i have known and come accross this problem, but not with this particular engine ,it took me a great deal of time to find it as it is not a common occurance, if you have a friend that is a mechanic may be worth asking him to take a look at it with the garage's permission if you dont then you may have to pay out for an independant inspection

even if you change the clockspring your self you will still need to go to a garage to have the codes cleared from the system