Topbloke

thanks for the tip

sounds like a sticking thermostat to me :(

I tinted my side windows my self although i must admit that i will have to do the rear sides again they are not up to my standards and they were the first ones i did. the next ones i did i read the instructions and it was a lot better the windows come out easily and can give you guidance if you need i have put off doing the rear window but i will do it soon. i seem to think that the temp inside the car is a lot less but that may just be me :(

sounds like an sticking thermostat to me :(

the price difference is proberbly something to do with there are two different types. one is a ceramic cat, the other is a metal construction, the ceramic one usually lasts about 3 years and is prone to failure when shocked ie hitting objects or being cooled rapidly flood water/fords etc. there can be an underlying problem that may have caused its failure usually over fueling bearing in mind that the emmisions only get checked once a year and it could in theory be running rich for 12 months

as an after thought if the problem went away after you changed the fuel filter did you change the seal on the plastic bit that goe's on the filter these are a known problem sucking air so that not enough fuel gets to the pump

Hi and welcome to the forum as a newbie i assume that you are trawling through the various problems that sound like yours so here are a few idea's, maf sensors are a popular fault (mass airflow sensor ) try disconnecting and see if any change, does the vehicle black smoke while driving possible turbo problem . they also tend to gunge up the inlet manifold restricting airflow into engine (would also cause black smoking) may sound silly but i assume that the clutch is not slipping.let us know if these idea's fail as many others are out there and we will all try to point you in the right dirrection

there should not be any problems as long as you put your foot on the pedal before droping it in to gear all auto's used to be this way in the old days

I have a auto gal and i can confirm that you are able to move the gear selector when the ignition is off. there are two switches on the brake pedal one for the lights the other for the ecu if the brake lights are working then that switch is okay try the other (there are various threads on this site reference brake switches ) the switches are about 10/12 pounds and its proberbly worth changing both . they are fairly simple to fit and adjust

this is the reset that i use 1 close all windows and doors 2 put key in door and turn to unlock position 3 times holding position for 0.5 sec's 3 take key out of lock and within 5 second'spress and hold locking button on remote, the light in door should light up during this time. 4 press unlock button 3 times then let go of lock button, the light in the door should flash. 5 sync now finnished. try this several times if you have no joy then i would suspect the remote is u/s and a trip to your local fraud dealer is in order ;)

here we go drivers side fuse box upper level left to right relay #4 should be first relay second row on the left. also relay #19 bottom row futhest to the right. i will check to see if there are any other relays now . can you here the aircon pump clutch cutting in when the engine is ticking over

the throttle pot has two tracks within it one track runs 0 upto 5 volts track two 5 down to 0 volts not only backing each other up but if one circuit go's u/s it still has a the other, they should not go through a relay it should go direct to the ecu,from there to the throttle body motor hope this sheds a little light . talking of lights doe's the engine management light come on or the glowplug light when the fault is present ?

as far as i am aware this vehicle is drive by wire ie no throttle cable just a throttle potentiometer try checking the pedal pot wiring, may just be a poor conection there could be a dead spot within the the pedal pot the only way to test that would be to hook the vehicle up to a computer/diagnostic reader and check the live readings as you push the pedal down

have you had the fuel filter changed recentlyif its partially blocked this can cause the pump to struggle. if you have, can you use/ get hold off a multimeter with amp measurement on it ,if you can do both let me know and i will sort out the spec's for the pump

Don't know if this will be any help but do you have a sun roof if so wind it back and look in both front corners there are drain holes don't know exactly where they end up exiting the vehicle but usually front wings/ sill area you could try pouring water into said hole and see if your feet get wet B)

the pads have what is know as a sensor loop usually two thin wires going down to the pad when the pads wear the disc's break the wire and put the light on, some times the wire gets damaged/cut and will put the light on you could try dissconecting the sensors front and rear and see what happens . there is also a sensor for fluid level when it drops below a set level light comes on

The chip in the key is purely for the immobliser when you put the key in the ignition it checks with the key to see if all is well if okay then the ecu will power up and also allow the engine to be cranked .There are various key cutting companys that will cut you a new key and some will even clone your key but you need the original chip, as you have lost it i don't think that you have any choice unless you have the immobiliser code they may be able to do it from that but don't hold your breath

Behind the pollen filter enjoy

Don't want to tempt fate 98my no problem's but noy very happy with the quality have to run it flat out all the time to make any difference just not man enough for the job

in car fuse box numbered left to right fuse no 11 10 amp's

scrap yard would seem best bet they normally just cut the loom any where and leave it on the donor engine, only to be thrown away, what you need is a good quality scrappie, where the engine has been removed carefully soldering is okay short term but needs to be avoided because the heat makes the wire brittle eventually breaking again good luck

many thanks will check out as soon as . am i right that the sensor works both lights on the dash or is there another ?

is there anyone out there that knows the exact location of the external temp sensor this is the one that puts the little snowflake on on the dash when external tempreture drops to just above freezing .mine comes on when it is wet so i assume that it may have a poor connection or its letting water into its self many thanks in anticipation

If you do have ABS you could remove the fuse for the abs and see what happens it will not effect the brakes all it doe's is turns the system off and you are on normal brakeing , Obviosly if the noise goe's then you will need to do some further checks

try looking at nsterrys question on leaks there is just the answer you are looking for :lol: