mk2vr6

you talking to him or his mrs?

you have to drill a small hole in the housing and apply pressure to the latching pin holding it in place, while pulling on the key you have inserted into the switch and twisted to position 2, so it does just pull out of the switch! on the barrel housing you will find a triangular flat cut out, remove the pats sensor ring to see it, this is where you drill the hole, center of hole is 2mm up from base of cut out and 2mm up off the center line of the cut out drill size 4/5mm should do the job! drill out the spare barrel first to get an idea of where you need to drill on yours so you dont screw up! and dont think that you can take the pats system off the scrapper and just use it to save you getting the keys reprogrammed, as you cant! the system is locked to the main ECU and removing it and stuffing it in your car will mean a costly trip to the dealers to get it all reprogrammed! which you will be doing anyway to get the new keys programmed in as you cant do it with only one key!

mk2 surly thats a difference of 1.15mm or am i getting this all wrong? it is 1.22 my bad doing to many things at the same time! cant multi task well add up, type, play travian, drink beer and eat .... something has to go wrong and I aint wasteing food or beer :)

depends on the vehicle spec? if you have the door ajar warning system on the dash then the door switches are double pole switches, one switch for the interior lighting and the other for the door warning system

really? where did you get your figures from? 215/55/16 = 321.45mm rr 235/40/18 = 322.6mm rr a difference of 7.22mm or 0.36% so at 70 your speedo will be reading 70.25mph your stating the diameter of the wheel to have a rr of that size (1284mm) would mean more than just rolling the arches! and dropping the car by 50mm wouldnt make much difference to the handling! I think JCB's run rear tyres the size you quoteing :)

there will be a 2.5 mm single black wire in both A posts that feed the screen, the 0 Volt connection is above the rear view mirror, these are a known problem! as in the fitters forget to do them up or bodge them in place with a dab of screen sealer! if the screen has failed and its covered on your insurance well .............

yes the light units can be dismantled and cleaned, along the outer edge of the glass there are several clips that hold the glass to the main body, with these gently removed! you can seperate the glass from the main body as the portly chap said check the head light levelers are working correctly and that the lights have the full range of adjustment? if the one in question is stuck down you wont get the full spread of light

errr nope mainly because of the possibility of the hose collapsing under load! its hard plastic for a reason ;)

on the slam panel passenger side, to the right of the washer bottle filler spout you will see the mounting bracket for the fan control relays, follow the looms from that, one of them will go down to the resistors which are mounted below the contoler only way of testing them is check for continuity across them and seein if the rateing is printed on the caseings and go from there

look through the list offered and then select the nearest Vw model, which will be Sharan 1.9tdi

thanks for that, that helps a lot. Also had a suggestion it might be the resistor pack ! I called it the speed control resistor as I could remember its name! even if this fails you normally still have max speed as this setting isnt controlled by the resistor pack! hence why I suggested starting at the motor and working your back through the circuit, I just did the same on a Mitsi Delica, finally traced the problem back to a small brass contact in the speed control switch! after three hours of trying to follow a Japanese wireing diagram! without the aid of a translator ;)

remove the lower glove box and you can gain access to the majority of the parts you need to check

yes both screens are on timers, in your case they are in IIRC? the second level of the fuse board

usually problem when the fan isnt working is the speed control resistor has failed! but this normally still allows the fan to run on full blast, so I would start by pulling the fan from the housing and checking that it still spins? and then testing its operation by jury rigging a supply to it, if it spins up then your problem is further back in the system! good luck ;)

ahh that would possible be because certain ex members of here are on there and the other site ;) plus your reputation as a pain the arse preceeds you :)

the rims are, as is the rear spoiler and arches but the front end doesnt look it! the UK importer of Projektzwo is no more although the kits turn up on ebay but demand silly amounts of cash! I just sold the rear box on ebay for stupid money! twice as much as I paided for it but well under what it was worth!

nothing to worry about as it would only vent the fumes into the atmosphere, at worse you could possibly smell petrol when its vented! the fumes collect in the canistor and when the time is right a valve opens and the fumes are sucked into the engine and burnt! its a common thing on VR6 golfs when fitting an induction kit to bin the canistor and to either link out the hoses or extend the breather to below the front bumper then just plug off the hose to the engine to stop it sucking in crap

dont cut the blue wire! or is it the red? BANG! CARBON CANISTER leave it be

long gone, the new owner is well happy with it :rolleyes:

no cam belt, VR6 has chains, so if he looked under the bonnet and saw a broken belt then its the aux drive belt, powers the alternator, power steering, water pump and ac

considering that they are specifically designed to cope with the coolant coming into contact with them a lot longer than a timing belt anti freeze can degrade the reinforcing cords in the belts as they are not protected like they are in coolant hoses

on the head lineing above the middle row seats passenger side are a set of rotary control, fan speed and temp, these only work when the button on the center consule is pressed, round button with an outline of the car on with heat haze lines .......... and before you ask no its not ac its just ambient temp air when set on cold

nope you've been misinformed! if its petrol and your talking about the internal heater in the rear quarter panel that runs off the standard battery in the engine bay, the only time you get the second battery under the front passenger seat is if you have the timer set up for the external booster heater

where exactly is this space for the second battery and what makes you think it should have one?