mk2vr6

easy job, you need the replacement light switch and fogs, you use to be able to get them over the counter at Fords as a compelte kit inc the relay, you will how ever need to check that you have the loom and plugs in place behind the bumper before you start :16:

only way to be sure is to pop the door cards off and look? that is if you mean the rear doors and not the rear quarter lights? either way you will need to remove trim panels or door cards and look as my crystal ball is on the fritz! :) if you mean the doors the main problem is wether or not the connections are in place in the main loom to the rear doors? you can get the door looms and fit them but you would have to replace the main loom in order for it to all work or if not just make up your own door loom as needed and then splice it into the main loom under the dash somewhere near the fuse box so you can pick up the global connection and ignition feed as required ps if you have a mk1? I have a complete set of rear door motors and mechs laying about <_< about to go on ebay

Wouldn't advise a VW or Seat one - they use red illumination not green :o would be very handy though if she ever goes to sea or gets airborn ^_^ http://images.brighthub.com/E7/E/E7E547B242CDC4C0A69BEFECF2FD2A5973D91A91_small.jpg

I believe thats a feature of auto wipers? our JEEP does it as well as a reminder that they are in uto mode

chain x 2 http://vwgolfr32.co.uk/images/VR6-Timing-Kit.gif known to go around the 100k mark well not the chains but the tensioners and when they go they take out the engine big time! either way you end up either dropping the gear box to replace them or dropping the lump to replace it, if they are noisy as its only a matter of time till they go bang!

isnt there a manual over ride? check the user handbook? my JEEP has one to allow you to open the rear hatch from the inside if you need to! the mk1 and 2 could be opened from inside if you knew how to flip the lock once the inner trim cover was removed or pulled out far enough to allow your arm in to depths of the hatch :(

coil overs are the way to go ;) been there done that and been so low that I wore a hole in the undertray and had the hubs higher than the gearbox output shafts :D which killed the drive shafts :wacko: best set so far I ran was these.... http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/pro...product=3876908 in fact still have the rear shocks and springs on the shelf as I ran a set of FK's on the rear as they had adjustable spring mounts! which meant you could slam the rear even more :D the FK fronts died in a big way after 12 months! the spring mounts failed! a common propblem I was told after it happened! the other good thing about the FK set up is that you get shorter uprated front anti roll bar links which also failed! so we cut and shut a standard set to fit after that also if your going low replace the anti roll bar bushes with those from a VW dealers they do an uprated/sports set, over the counter, you have to go and chat to the parts guy and scroll through his screens but they do list them and were available last time I looked, the anti roll bars on the VR6 are a larger diameter than that of the other models in the range as well, somewhere on here in one of many guises :ph34r: there is a post on the subject along with part nos IIRC? have fun ;)

IIRC? the load section lights are controlled by a micro switch on the tailgate lock, it clips onto the main body of the lock to get to it you'll need to remove the inner tailgate trim cover, there are a few how too's on this subject, its not that hard a job so dont panic :angry2:

nope not her! she only gets told its broke then you hear a sigh as she realises her inbox is full of you lot moaning that you cant post this weekends mpg figures :lol:

funny! but google it and see how many times and places the same sign pops up?

yes I did :( I also corrected the spelling mistakes in my quoted/altered version :D

ahh, go on and give us all a laugh :(

:(

what year? and 12v or 24v?

does it hell, you can swap it out without dropping the engine! cam belt? most likely the aux drive belt? drive shaft issues? only when you lower them so far down that they point up hill from the hubs :lol: main problems going to be the fuel bill for the beast, but the sound of that engine is enough to make up for that ;)

dont take it off! if you do you'll need to replace the gasket between it and the inlet manofold! go get a can of carb cleaner, RTFM and then remove the inlet hose from the throttle body and squirt it in wipe out the throttle body with a soft cloth, trying not to disturb the butterfly to much! then with the engine running open the throttle and spray inside it! the fluid will get sucked into the engine! and depending on how much you spray in the engine may stall! as for the flashing fluid warning light? IIRC flashing is low fluid, on perminant it overheating!

18074/P1666 - Valve for Pump - Jet: Cylinder 1 (N240): Electrical Malfunction 18075/P1667 - Valve for Pump - Jet: Cylinder 2 (N241): Electrical Malfunction 18076/P1668 - Valve for Pump - Jet: Cylinder 3 (N242): Electrical Malfunction 18077/P1669 - Valve for Pump - Jet: Cylinder 4 (N245): Electrical Malfunction 18078/P1670 - Valve for Pump - Jet: Cylinder 5 (N244): Electrical Malfunction 18079/P1671 - Valve for Pump - Jet: Cylinder 6 (N245): Electrical Malfunction the ecu reads the voltage to the jet, at the start of the injection period? fom what I gather? any extra resistance in this cabling system will bring up a fault code! sounds like you have a U/S loom or a dodgy connector? a common problem! IIRC DaveG had this problem? do a search on the topic t has been covered before ;) the-boss..... how the hell you thought it was a crank sensor code I'll never know? you a Ford techie? :lol:

manual or auto? do you have more than one key? what does the red light on the door do when you switch on the ignition and try to start it? when you say it wont start? does it try to? does the engine turn over? does the starter motor spin up?

strip and rebuild the engine, blue printing it should help! replace the turbo, improve on the engine venting, dont recirculate fit breather pots and oil collectors or..... leave it switched off and take the bus ;)

low? IIRC? there are two marks on the dip stick one for cold and another for hot! before you top it up check! and just to pee on your bonfire there is no electrical level sensor on the ps system so its not that :lol:

the idle speed is control by the throttle postion sensor/motor there is no ISV or other means of setting the idle speed on the VR6, adjusting the cable tension yourself will totally screw up the idle speed! the valve you show in your picture is a flame trap valve and is prone to breaking up as is the hose its mounted in! check it for splits in the convolutions in it and in the main air hose to the throttle body

yes! mind you they said you cant polish a T##d but in this case they stuck shiney bits on it and the morons went crazy for it...window lickers the lot of them :blink:

sounds like you possibly have an air leak on the inlet side? or you've disturbed something while you were working in the engine bay try resetting the throttle position sensor, switch on the ignition without starting the engine and leave the key in that position for a few minutes, you should hear the throttle position motor go through its range checks and reset itself, switch off and then see how she runs?

the word you looking for is NO but its a bit late now Where Do I Put It? and after for kids you still dont know?