Mirez

Thanks for that, I think the tracking is out slightly but would that cause wheel wobble? I did the drop links and the TSB info tonight and the issue is better but still there, the drop links were completely shot - I'm amazed they wern't making any noise! I'll fit the track rod ends tomorrow and then have it tracked, I'll ask them to check the new wheels whilst they are at it but fter that I'll be scratching my head a little more... Just for clarification, it does it at 50mph+ on old wheels and with new wheels there is no knocking, noise on take up drive shafts and barings all seem fine with no play there is no noise if pushed hard in either direction with or without acceleration if its pulling HARD then the vibration is only just there, its when its cruising that its most obvious its not the subframe TSB :angry: CV joints all look fine, boots are sealed and in good condition. Regarding the grease, how do I tell how much is in there? How do I tell if it needs greasing (other then this vibration lol)

Has anyone experimented with the Alhambra instrument cluster? I've just acquired one for a reasonable price as I think my current galaxy one is a bit goosed (regarding door open etc) - the alhambra one is also from a 1.9, two years newer but includes two extra gauges, one for oil temp and one for voltage. I'm checked TIS and the oil temp signal IS present for the galaxy cluster, though what it uses it for is unknown so I'm guessing this "could" (haha) be a simple in/out swap over to gain the extra two gauges? Has anyone experimented before? I'm aware of the obvious colour difference re illumination but I'll swap the LED's over later if it proves a sucsess.... any thoughts?

An overview from a well known resouce: :ph34r: "The vacuum pump is electrically driven, this makes the system independent of intake manifold pressure. The speed control actuator is connected to the accelerator pedal, when vacuum is applied the actuator diaphragm acts via a rod onto the accelerator pedal. This eliminates the need for a separate vehicle speed control cable. Both the brake pedal and clutch pedal (if equipped) have deactivator switches. The deactivator switch(es) has a combination of both electrical and pneumatic control. When the brake or clutch pedal is depressed the deactivator switch opens and vents the system's vacuum to atmosphere. The resultant loss of vacuum ensures that the throttle is completely closed. In addition to the deactivator switch venting to atmosphere, an electrical contact is opened in the deactivator switch, the loss of the ground signal is processed through the speed control module which opens the solenoid valve in the vacuum pump."

Thanks for the suggestion, I did look at the search results and they all seem to be effecting acceleration - my wobble is with or without engine assistance, with or without clutch which is why I didn't suspect any of the drive train, surely dry CV joints would be felt across the range and be more prominent of acceleration?

They were

As requested in another thread, pics of the car now sporting 18" RS6 Alloys instead of the 16" Ford Ghia ones. Still at original Ford height, my drive is too steep for any of this lowering marlarky, it occationally catches the front splitter as it is! Hopefully of some interest!

I shall post pictures shortly :ph34r: They are deffinately balanced inside and out, they've used the stick on weights (at my request!) and the company I got them from has some great reviews but thanks for the suggestion. Hopefully the trackrod ends and drop links will arrive tomorrow and I think I'll do the TSB anyway since I'll need it tracked after the rod ends are changed... has anyone else carried out that TSB?

It is one of the weirdest speed control systems I've ever seen to be fair, the pump creates a vacumme and this pulls/pushes on a diaphram assembly in the cabin which pulls/pushes on the throttle pedel - which of course then actuates the throttle body... talk about complicated! (At least thats my understanding!) I had the exact same system on my 2.3, the TD is different. After it enters the engine bay and joins that trunking its very shortly after that it connects to the plastic pipe (which was white on mine for reference) - you should be able to find that join without any problem as its very close to the trunking start - or again was on mine. I can't overly remember the upper right section as that wasn't at fault on mine, I recall the white pipe travelling right at the back of the engine compartment next to the ABS pipework and it was in the engine bay, deffo not under the scuttle. Then in ran down as I said and into the cabin. Its purely a pipe from the pump into the cabin and isn't connected in anyway to anything in the engine bay. I'm thinking more about the white pipe and I think it actually ran from under that battery tray area right up and across to the back left without converting back, it changed back in the top left for certain.

Guys and Gals (Boom Boom), I've got a slight wobble going on around 50mph right up to about 70 which is present with or without engine power (ie coasting), I assumed wheels but I've just changed them for 18" RS6 all new and fully ballanced and, whilst better, its still there... I've got drop links and track rod ends coming just in case and because I like to change things like that but any other issues known about? I've been reading the threads about brake discs warping but this is when driving normally, not when braking - my thoughts are if its warped then it could still be coming into contact when not applied? I've also been reading a TSB about shuddering (Galaxy 2001-096 (06-12-2001)) which talks specifically about shuddering at these speeds and re-aligning the subframe. Well I want to have it tracked following the new wheels so I might try this first as the procedure seems reasonably strait forward - just wondered if anyone else has had this kind of issue?

From the motor is passes through a large hole in the wing into the engine bay, runs under the battery compartment and connects to a plastic tube, this carries up and around to the top right of the engine bay, from there it reverts to rubber and passes along the back of the engine bay to the other side, after another brief spell of plastic it turns back into rubber again and dissapears down the rear left of the engine bay. About 15cm down it passes through a grommet and arrives into the cabin above the brake pedal. It was the piece between brake pedal and engine bay that had perished on mine in... wait for it.... SIX places! Replaced with fuel grade hose from a local motor factors,

'Tis a carport and a pending thunderstorm thats done that :) It was amazing actually, both to see the process and to see the result. Takes some serious patience mind, about 40 minutes a dent! :ph34r:

Hopefully not posted in the wrong place, appologies if it is - I rarely find the inclination to post something like this, but I've just had 3 nasty dents removed from the Galaxy for not only an exceedingly good price but also for an immaculate job! The company is called DentDiamond and covers Bath, Dorset, Somerset and Wiltshire DentDiamond The only annoyance was with myself for not taking better before pictures to show off the quality of this work! I can't stress enough how good a job this is, firstly given the location and second, the photo's don't really show the serverity of this dent which was a deep and nastle little blighter and the after photo, again, isn't showing just how good a job Craig did (I will get some more photos later). I had 3 panels done, removing a number of door dings / imperfections at a cost of

I believe the unit itself would fit, but like most manufacturers the radio's "bezel" - ie, its faceplate - is designed to fit into and makeup the dash so there is normally a lip/flange which makes it all look pretty. On the mondeo the mk3 (as above) radio sits in a hole which is wider at the top then the bottom - the gentle slope is made up with the faceplate which is why I cant see how you'll fit it into the galaxys "square" hole. :huh:

Hummmm to remove the water pump you need to remove the timing belt... if its not been timed back correctly then you could experience the symptoms you have - I would be taking it back to the original garage as its obviously not fixed!

Yeah I didn't fully understand that myself, all I can imagine is its more the signal side of things then the actual circuit side. Personally if things are working I'd reset the error and see what happens.... it could also have been in the past?

Sounds like: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...;hl=turbo+stick

Nope, the wiring for the Mk2 Galaxy (The 6000CD) unit is old school ford, for the vw (and probably the seat) its ISO. New ford stuff (that unit you are looking at comes from a mondeo or focus) is now also ISO. You can however get ford to ISO convertors very easily so that shouldn't put you off, I cant see how it will fit though as the aperature of the mondeo isn't the same as the galaxy.

When I had the 2.3 I replaced the idle speed control valve (ISCV) to fix this. Keep in mind the ECU learns the figures from the ISCV on the Ford so bolting a new one on wont immediately solve the issue, I found I needed to reset the ECU (battery off for 15 mins) after for it to then idle correctly. It seems to be a weak point on the ford engine and I ended up changing it for a 1.8 escort one later on as it went funny again. 23K later and the escort one was still working fine so possible a galaxy ISCV design issue? Not sure the percentage of people who have had issues on the 2.3? Anyway, certainly I would be looking at the ISCV on the 2.0 - though I dont know much about the VW engine, the characteristics are symptomatic (two very big words lol) of a sticking ISCV. Happens a lot on mondeos where the valve gums up with carbon so try removing it and cleaning with carb cleaner first. Engine power loss shouldn't be THAT noticeable though - however with the vavle stuck in the open position air will be by-passing the throttle body (TB). Since the ECU uses the position of the TB (combined with the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor- the other bit you changed) to calculate the correct mix (amount of fuel vs volume of air), its possible that the volume of air in the chambers will be significatly higher then the ECU would imagine. The result could make it run lean and subsequently show a loss of power and performance. If that makes sence lol!

Oh and no there is no relay for this circuit. ;)

I've taken mine apart recently to fix a constant adjusting thing that the LH side was doing. The motors are your average run of the mill motors connected to a worm gear that adjusts the reflector. From the adjustment shaft sits a plastic arm which simply slides a varisior (like the old style volume slider) on the pcb. So to answer your first question no, they are not steppers (although you can't help thinking it would have been so much easier to have used them!) I would also say its weird for both to have failed at the same time, they share a common control signal which appears to be a 12V variable resistance signal driven from fuse 58. Checking pin 4 at the control switch (yellow / yellow/blue) should have 12v when the ignition and lights are on. Pin 2 is the output from the variable switch so again with it all switched on and plugged in check you have a variable voltage on this when the switch is adjusted. If that is ok then you need to move onto the motors. Check pin 5 at either motor (Red/Blue) should also see a variable voltage when the control switch is adjusted as this is that same output from the switch. If thats present then the fault is with the control units. They share a common ground on Pin 3 (Brown/Blue) from either motor. The ground is also shared with various engine sensors so probably not going to be at fault. Finally Each motor has its own seperate 12v supply via fuses 59 and 60.

B+ Seems to relate to the supply voltage, Ie, its not shorted to ground but to 12v instead...

Have you considered these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ford-Galaxy-Stabilis...1QQcmdZViewItem Seem a good price to me, and a branded name so should be good.

To me :ph34r: And very please I am with it to! :lol:

Almost certainly as suggested, the flap motor and the temperature motor are both "stepper" motors - ie they turn in increments, albeit quickly. When turning they make a rumbling noise due to the On/Off phases of the stepper. The SATC climate panel has a startup sequence which moves the motors through a full cycle as a test, I can only imagine there is also some kind of testing happening with the non SATC version.... if you leave it for, say a minute, will the noise stop?

I'll take a look thanks... There are no other symptoms like that, certainly no pad warnings and the fuel guage is spot on (though why there is no "range" function on the galaxy is a mystery!). The indicators flash when the alarm is activated but on most other cars I've had if a door ajar switch was the culprit the interior lights would have come on at the point of trigger as they are basic switched units.