Mirez

Just remember that VW switches will typically illuminate red not fords green!

I do, and the light comes on only when the CC is activate. However the new golf is all can-bus and I dont have the correct interface cable to communicate with it :D

A development on this, I've just swapped my 01 cluster with no cruise light for an 04 cluster - result, cruise light now comes on when the stalk is in the "On" position. More interestingly is that the cluster was from an auto, this means that until recoded the speedo is reading about 20mph out. Activating cruise gives some weird pulsed acceleration and then it slows the car down until it deactivates. It would therefore seem that the CC light is entirely controlled by the cluster, more so that the cluster is sending some signals back to the PCM that directly influence the way cruise works....

From the Smart Start menu of Nero pick "Jukebox CD" and then add them to that.

Thankyou! Final question of the subject of the mounts for the moment - top bolt looks reasonably ok and not a rusted mess like normal, I suspect with some penetrating oil I can remove it without damaging the strut however since I'm going to the effort of taking the tops off is it worth changing the shocks at the same time? At 120K they still look original.

Well part sucess today :wacko: I booked the car in to Ford for friday but I'm still loathed to give in so this evening I put the old, old driveshaft back on - vibration at 50+ back but interestingly the judder is still there. I then put the new, new driveshaft back on and vibration at 50 disapears but judder remains. So I started thinking about all that I had undone/replaced and couldn't find any issue so went through the suggestions above and came to strut top mount.... now how the hell you "test" this is beyond me but I think I may have some issues with the passenger side one. With the car on axel stands and the wheels removed I can manually "lift" the A frame/Hub assembly about 6cm before it meets much resistance which I dont think is normal, surely the spring/shock should keep it loaded even at the limit of travel? I didnt get time to test the drivers side so I'm currently undecided on if this is normal or not - advice would be great! Next the strut mount is also extreamly "loose" with front to back play in it (granted I should take this with a pinch of salt as it should be tested with the suspention loaded) however I decided to turn the top mount through 90*. Result is that the car still judders but significantly less then before leading me to conclude that it may well be this mount thats failed? Opinions please chaps?

If you know it works on DC in and you know the outlets are giving 12V DC then you need to be looking at the connector itself - there are some variations in the barrel size of cigarette sockets and where most fit ok some dont make contact correctly. Try a 1-to-3 adaptor on the socket and see if that makes contact correctly. I had the same issue with a GPS unit that worked only when really pushed in hard and held in place - hardwired it in the end

Just a follow up and to see if anyone can offer any final advice, the vibration was still there after fitting all of the above but on inspection of the driveshafts when the car was on the road there was noticable play in the new assembly. I have therefore replaced the new passenger driveshaft for another new driveshaft and FINALLY the vibration has disapeared... ...however :rolleyes: I now have a judder - its only when accelerating from low speeds (not there in 1st, from 1500 to 3K in 2nd gear and very little in any other gears). It feels like the car is getting drive to only one front wheel at a time in very quick sucession (I'm sure its not but its that twisting effect) I cant imagine I have ANOTHER defective driveshaft - is there any alignment to be done?

There are two coil packs on the 2.3 though - they sit above cylinders 2 and 3 with one HV lead out and into 1 and 4 from them. You may see arching but most likely you wont as they are potted units so unless its arching on one of the leads to 1+4 then it'll be an internal breakdown (which is quite common on them) They arn't cheap though, and diagnosing which one is the faulty one isnt that easy.

Hummm your car has 97 wiring then, must have been an early 98 - No biggy. I would also be of the opinion that the indicator switch is operational if the park light warning is working. I cant quite make out the schematic though for the 98 - it would appear that the hazzards and directions are all powered from F17 - 10Amp. This is direct into relay K61. K61 puts an output to pin 4 (Black/Green) of C186, in theory this seems to be the full load requirement for both indicator circuits. When the hazzard switch is in the off position then power is sent from F17 to the relay K61, when its in the on position its sent from the busbar to K61. Since you have the fault in both positions then the switch could be a potential fail point. You need to locate C14 on the right side of the column - find pin 10 (Black) and check for 12V with the ignition on - thats the supply from F17. Next check pin 8 of the same connector (White / Yellow). If no 12V exits here then the switch is most likely defective, depress the hazzard switch and again measure the output from pin 8 - if again there is no 12V then the switch is almost certainly the cause. If 12V exists then measure pin 4 of C186 (Black/Green) to ground with the ignition on - this is the supply from relay K61 to the control stalk and ultimately the indicators. You'll probably get 0V and a high (infinity) resistance to ground instead of 12V. Therefore locate and replace relay K61 as a its the only other common point in the 97 circuit! If you do have 12V here then measure pins 2 (Green/Black) and pin 7 (Green) on C186 with the ignition on and the direction stalk in one of the positions - if you dont have 12V (or that floating 3V>12V siganal) then its likely a defective controller stalk.

Easiest place is under one of the front seats, best place is behind one of the trim panels well out of the way. The front seat location is good though as its reasonably tricky to get to with good routing access. I would remove the seat to do the job well though (but dont turn the ignition on if you have side airbags with the seat out as you'll trigger an errorcode) The locking is +Ve if you use the existing set/reset switches in the front doors, using that method means you also activate the Ford alarm and double locking (DL is important!) - if you connect your window closure wire to the same "lock" wire then it will use the cars inbuilt global closing feature.

Thankyou, but then it is what I do - albeit on a slightly smaller scale lol :D

Ok this shouldn't be that tricky, if the hazzard switch is also NG then its a safe assumption its a circuit fault. The first thing to do is to gather some info for checking purposes. I'll guide you through checking all the main parts of the system now, you'll need a standard volt meter (about

The key to installing any alarm is good planning and no rushing, the saying is "An alarm is only ever as good as its installer" and thats VERY true! What exactly do you need help with? and what alarm is it?

I thought the red eye was to do with leather - red eye being half leather and double red eye being full leather? I could be compleatly wrong on this one though :D

34mpg in town isnt that bad!!! Its a big van not a car after all, the golf only gets 38 around town and thats weighs a lot less!

Search ebay for "Galaxy breaking" - pick all the Mk2's and then ask the seller if they have the book - they all came with one originally so the chances must be reasonably high!

If you use the hazzard switch do they work?

Well thats a little far for me! ;) but worth putting a post out to see if anyone more local to you would do it! Since both of them are lit its seeing a fault with the braking circuit as well so in theory the most likely cause is a faulty level switch - I would certainly start there at least

Pretty much no, the visteon unit "talks" to the DVD and vice-versa - although its only composite video/audio in which any DVD player will give without the correct signals (Ie, "I have a disk" / "I am starting playback") the visteon controller sees faults and tries to restart the DVD and controller. The only easy way is to use the Aux In or if you have the VHS Player as well then use the Line in on the back of that.

225/45R17/91W. 225 = Tyre Width 45 = Tyre Height as a percentage of the width R = Radial Ply Construction 17 = 17 Inch Wheel Size / Rim Size 91 = Load Rating (91 can carry 615Kg Max per tyre - should never be less the one quater of the vehicles kerb weight) 94 = Load Rating 670Kg Max w = Suitable for up to 168Mph v = Suitable for up to 150Mph Out of the two I would go with continental but Potenza's are actually made by bridgestone tyres who are also very good - just go with cost! (Unless you plan to do that extra 18mph!)

Yes, Vag-Com should tell you the reasons behind the lights or at least give you a good starter. Where abouts are you located? There may be someone on here who will do it for you?

I have a touran from the local VW dealer as a courtesy car and dispite being the basic of basic models its actually pretty nice, I'm not sure how comfortable the rear two passengers would be though - its not exactly a full size people carrier but certainly a solid comfy drive. The other alternative is the S-Max, now I've only driven one once but it was a cracker of a car - we contemplated one instead of the galaxy but extra size of the galaxy was the winner...

All the 2.3 engines are chain driven. They are Ford derived and are the same engine as used in the transit and the last of the "bug eyed" scorpios. Its a well proven engine :) Chains are typically not used on petrol engines below 2.5 as the stress levels they are subject to is reasonably low by comparison and the noise associated with a chain can be classed as a "bad point". That said the HUGE plus side of chains is that they hardly ever snap and unlike a belt are typically designed for the life of the car without any major servicing required.

:) Whole cable, its normally a seperate loom though so just unclips from the retainers - takes about an half an hour to remove properly without damage, about 2 minutes if you are in a scrap car :)