Mirez

I'm sure there is a TSB on this, "Noises/gurgling on intake system" - I would check but my tis is broken at the moment.

I've taken a good look at that listing already, there's been a few sets now - normally its a buyers who bought from an earlier listing from a guy selling sets of them new. I would suspect once they get them and realised that fitting the base and upright bits will be tricky, but nothing compared to the armrest and headrests which require stitching, they go back on ebay.

ALL the mirrors, be it from a galaxy, sharan or alhambra - Mk1 or Mk2 use the same mirror base and two bolt fitment plus wiring layout so all will directly fit. However the mirror body (and thus appearance) differs: The galaxy hasn't had any revisions to the body and shares the same design as the Mk1 sharan/alhambra. The sharan/alhambra got a revised unit for the Mk2 and this was revised yet again for the sharan towards the end of 06 when the higher spec models got the repeaters moved to the mirrors. The sharan/alhambra also had the option of electric folding mirrors and these are, again, different casings.

Take the undershield off, and look at the bottom of the sump - its the large hex shaped sensor thats fitted into the bottom of the sump. IIRC 2 bolts to remove and it comes out.... once you've drained the oil first!!!

When the water pump fails the car will eventually overheat and cause significant head damage, HOWEVER providing you pulled in pretty quickly and unless you drove it with the temp gauge in the red for some time then you should be fine with just a replacement pump.

Auxilary belt as its called is easy to change, taking the pressure off the tensioner is the only tricky bit - however its a well known fault with galaxy diesels that the belt gets wet allowing it to slip so the undertray is a must - I've not heard of many issues with the petrol version though but I would check the front grills are correctly fitted as a start.

Next time you take it apart, use a dremal or sander to strip back the spindle before greasing it - its not just a lack of grease that causes the sticking but corrosion forming on the surface of the spindle.

There are a fair few, but my money is still on an internal short with the cluster. There are a number of supplies to it that remain live at all time including the ECU memory feed which passes though the cluster as well as circuits to do with the imobiliser and locking system

Hi Jon, you have a short - most probably in the cluster itself or could be the wiring to it which is why its not effected by you removing the correct fuse as its being powered from another circuit! You can continue to remove the other fuses until you find the correct circuit but that won't overly help as it'll only show you what circuit its using and not where the short is. Replace the cluster with a test one if possible

There are two horizontal strips that run at the top and bottom of the windscreen from the outside edge to the center - its behind the frosting effect so you wont see them but its from there that the element wires are connected and run vertically. These are bonded into the screen when its made, it WILL be these elements though and not the connecting "bus" - think about how thin that wire actually is, and then the rapid heating from a negative temperature over and over again and its not that difficult to understand why they fail. That said, I've had many in the Fords I've owned and they've all lasted longer then 2 years so I would suggest you either have a poorly laminated screen (allowing the elements movement as they heat), its had impacts during its life (anything big and heavy will contribute to them failing such as footballs and the like) or it was badly fitted from day one. You'll never prove why it failed though and since I've never heard of anyone managing to repair one, (plus given how the windscreen is made it would be virtually impossible to do so) get the screen replaced. Make sure you first check if your insurance company will replace it just for the elements failing (most wont!) and also ensure you use a good reputable company as I've seen so many refits done quickly/badly its untrue. The biggest problem with rushing is that they tend to use big knifes to get the old screen out - all fine if they stay in the glue but if it scores the paintwork you'll have a rusting front end in a few years time so ask to inspect the car just before they fit the new screen.

Its semi-normal. it should run EVERY time the engine/ignition is turned off not just some of the time. It should also be turning off after a few minutes.

Sorry Kev but you are mistaken, regardless of temperature position if the A/C is swiched on (and working on the galaxy lol) then the evaporator will remove moisture from the air.

Only by changing the sensor for a different one or fooling it with a resistance change. Dropping the temperature it turns off at though could be dangerous - its there to protect the system from icing up and if you get ice in the system which reaches the compressor then it'll be game over as you can only compress gas not liquids or solids. You could probably safely drop the temperature by a few degrees and get away with it. If you're still feeling brave and fancy a fiddle then you might find this topic interesting to read: AC Mod Its from a forum I used to belong to some years back. The principle would be the same however the values would need to be investigated. Kev, the A/C should work at demisting regardless of temperature selected- its effect will be marginally better when its blowing cold air as opposed to hot but the drying effect remains.

I can recommend "Keith Lye" in melksham, up on the trading estate as he knows his stuff and is very honest it what needs doing - I've not used him personally for AC though but I do know many that have and say the work is very good. To answer your earlier question that I missed, your system is indeed 750g - nearly all galaxys are as its ONLY if you have the rear roof vents that you have the dual system. The compressor is very easy on the diesel galaxy but I've no experience of chaning it on the 2.3. The receiver drier and condenser are the same though and I'm pleased to say they are both easy enough to change - if you dont need to replace the condenser then get the genuine receiver/drier kit as it comes with a replacement sealing cap. If you use aftermarket then make sure you get a double sealed cap as this is the common cause of A/C leaks on the Mk2. Plug: I actually have the genuine VW kit for sale if your interested ;) The expansion chamber isn't quite so easy sadly, its bolted up high on the bulkhead but access is only really possible from below which makes alignment and sealing fun! When you take the old compressor off examine the oil that comes out - if its a clearish red colour then its old but probably ok however if it looks more like used engine oil then its contaminated and you probably should change the chamber.

Also before you attempt to remove it in a rush to get the puncture repaired - It might be worth getting a can of tyre weld in the interim to get you back on the road.

The halfords one is a "laser" made product and is compleatly crap without an air gun - the metal on the McGuard nut (the flower shaped one ;) ) is stronger then it can cut into. Any tyre place will be able to get it off for you though, normally for a

Thats pretty much how mine felt when it had gone. I'm not in the trade no, but I've had a fair bit of experience with a/c systems.

VW Spec appears not to be quite so specific! A/C should switch off when ambient temperatures are below approximately 5*c.

Ford A/C systems typically shut down at around 4*c which is to prevent the evaporator from freezing up, I would guess the galaxy system is VW spec'ed but it would probably still be around this temperature.

different kind of heater so simple terms you cant, you have a water heater what your after is a hot air heater blower Zorgman, You are mistaken, please read the answers above. The programmable heater is a water heater not an air blower.

No longer required now, bought an entire system just for the bloody thing so... For Sale: Visteon/Ford DVD Player M800 Media Controller Aux Input Panel 2x Front LCD Screens (no headrest)

If you are applying 12V direct to the compressor and its still not engaging its either the electro-clutch or the compressor - if you manually try to turn the inner wheel how much resistance is felt? If its extreamly easy to turn then its likely the vanes have gone in the compressor, if its reasonably tight then it could just be the clutch - I can't advise if its a seperate item on the gal though. If you replace any compressor you must ensure its properly oiled. What theu are getting at with regards to the galaxy is to do it before fitting and thats because of the location of the filler which makes it virtually impossible to do once fitted! IF the compressor has broken up there is an extreamly high chance there will be swarf and debris in the system, obviously you don't have to replace the R/D and valve - but if there is ANY metal debris left in the system after replacement it'll damage the new compressor extreamly quickly which is why its highly recommended to change these relatively cheap parts at the same time. For the sake of another

Wont fit, most notebly because of the rear lights being curved on the older model and strait on the newer one so the metal work is different on the tailgate. The bottom is also more curved on the older design so the new one would hit the bumper. The bumper could probably be swapped across at the same time to fix that but the metal work around the lights would require some alteration.