Mirez

Pfff I have a 430Bhp Supra for my trackday fun ;)

Good job its not the main engine then - there is no legal problem with leaving a heater running!

The only place it can be coming from is the evaporator core as shown in that thread - its the only bit of the A/C system thats inside the cabin. If its running down the foot rest then you need to confirm its oil, there isn't that much oil in an A/C system so for it to be literally running down the foot rest and pooling yet the A/C system still working would make me very skeptical its A/C oil. There was a reasonably common problem of the drain pipe either becoming detached or blocked. When the A/C is working a lot of moisture will be produced and this is disposed of out through the bulkhead and on to the road below (normally!) - I would check this pipe isn't blocked or detached before anything else.

Thats why having a fluffy dice hung from your mirror is so important! ;) Oh, Mirez...you might be interested in this vital item. No Kids mate, hence why I've got the money to waste on vital stuff like my switch ;)

I know for a switch its overpriced and I could just order a rocker one from work - but its to achieve the factory look!!

Two fuses, one primary that will turn if off entirely: F2 - 10Amp - Main Supply and one secondary that will stop it auto-engaging: F5 - 15Amp - Reverse Light Supply Both look after multiple circuits though so if everything else is working then it's unlikely to be a fuse.

Something I've been after for a while now as I don't like blanks on the dash! Finally got the part number (which is "3B0959561 01C" - Because I know how frustrating that is when you read an old thread and someones got it but they didn't share at the time!). The important bit to note is that UK Car's were never fitted with it and UK Dealers see its classed as "obsolete with no supersedence" - ie, it can't be ordered. If you go further into europe where they were actually fitted you'll find those dealers also see it as O-NS stock. In other words it simply can't be got anymore from VW/Seat. I've spent quite some time trawling the net and ringing people and found just one place in Germany which has 12 left and thats it, after that and I doubt you'll ever be able to buy it new again. For those interested its original function was to turn the interior lighting on/off and it was only fitted to the passat if you ordered the "Taxi Pack" from factory. It can be used for other things though as I belive it to be a simple latching on/off switch. The illumination is vw red when off, yellow/orange when on so the same as the sharan but will require an LED swap to match the Gal's colours. I've confirmed that it'll definately fit the Mk2 dash board and although my Germans not brilliant I'm fairly sure it comes with the plug.

Are you refering to the ones on the back of the front seats or the ones on the back of the rear seats? Did the aspen have the trays fitted to the rest of the seats? The ones on the back of the front seats are indeed useless but the one on the back of the center middle seat is more usefull as it can be folded down flat to make a base. On a side note, has anyone tried playing with the fixing for this? I remember years ago being in a caravan that had lift up windows - it had a similar gas lifter with a locking ring to tighten down and stop it moving when it was in the position required... something like that might fix the issue and make them more usefull? Having taken the seats apart it probably would be possible to retrofit the front ones, the mounting points are simply screwed onto the "chassis" of the seat so you'd need the tray and all the fixings - taking the seats apart isn't fun though and there may be different foam innards for the ones with/without the trays.

Donald, hit "Reply" then delete everything in the big white box before typing your reply- when you've finished scroll down to the "Add Reply" button. :)

Yup, fits just fine :) If you are asking if your dealer will fit it then probably yes but the kit was

Just a note on this, there are VERY few places that can properly code a new key, 95% of mobile locksmiths and the like simply clone the existing keys transponder code. The result is that you have two keys that will start the car as the ECU just see's the old keys code for both - thats all ok but if you want to programme your own you can't as you need to unique keys to do so. The other disadvantage is that if you have a PATS fault and it stops accepting the key for whatever reason your second key will also no longer work. The huge pro is that its normally much cheaper to clone rather then to recode the PATS ECU.

Andy, as requested: It looks like that, the panel is purely to show that though - none of the controls are functional whilst the ignitions off so you can't adjust the vent position, fan speed or temp but then in theory you should be still inside having breakfast! :46: It dims with the normal rehostat but because of its location you shouldn't find it causes any issues at all at night. :P

What model year spec etc? (Put it in your signature then its done for all future posts! (My Controls > Signature) Sounds very much like the wiring in the door connector, I've not experienced this yet though so either search for the threads that talk about it or wait for someone who has :46: Do you know anyone locally with VagCom? You might be able to get some idea of whats causing the issues if you can read the codes within the locking module.

Might depend on year but it couldn't on my 99 2.3 :46:

Built into the heater, if you drop the heater down its on the front (left as you look at it) and is accessible if you remove the 4 case bolts.

Its gonna be an 54/05/55 or 06 plate car right? Basically the control ECU for the aux heater is defective :46:

On the Mk1 it replaces the clock and the earlier Mk2's have the mk1 unit that fits in the blank where the mk1 clock used to be. Its only the later 03> mk2's that had the unit I've fitted but its the same functions for both. The kit on ebay is probably the easiest set up for where to buy but fitting is all dependant on skill! I've done so much with vehicle electrics over the years and I'm an electronics engineer for work so it wasn't that tricky for me. If you've never done anything with electronics before you'll be in for a steep learning curve! The worst bit was the relay holder, you need to remove the whole CJB to get to it and even then you'll be soldering in a very small gap with very little room for error. (Roughly 4inches of cable to cut and solder onto) You need to splice into 5 wires in total, if you screw up the wiring for 2 then you'll be stuffed as ones the primary CJB feed and the others the alarm system (to disable the ultrasonic sensors when the blowers are activated) You also need to be good with panel removal as you'll need to drop the front of the headlining, the A pillar trim, the lower facia (the whole panel thats below the steering wheel), the climate panel and the two kick plates that run down the passenger side. I'm not trying to put anyone off, in fact I'm only too happy to help with info but I'm just letting you know what you're in for if you decide to do it as its quite integrated with the vehicle electrics.

Down there!

Thanks! Whilst the timer hasn't got comms then controller has and I know I tapped into the canbus lines so it should be able to talk to it but just don't know what module! May need to leave it sitting I think! I also want to see if I can change it into AM/PM mode and not 24hr which is another reason I want to get coms as it might be in there since button combinations arn't working! I certainly think it was worth it, feel free to give me a shout when you get around to doing yours if you want a hand!

IIRC there was an issue with the early Mk3's not coming with the buttons for the rear opening vents but everything else fitted just the switches blanked off lol - again IIRC they were fitted up in the roof console.

E2 (E20) is laser read error - the disk is in but it can't lock onto it - normally a good clean of the lense sorts it out.

That andy but I do need the ford one :( I'm after the standard equipment and optional extra's list page for the ghia spec.

No no no its all quite legit I tells ya :( Well installed today and to say I'm chuffed is an understatement. Started at 3, finished at 7 so not that bad - the installation was actually quite easy, removing the drivers seat to fit the battery (dodgy bolt) and doing the wiring at the water pump's relay (tier 3) were the tricky highlights! The relay's base only comes out and gives about 4inches of wiring to work with so not at all fun! Still its in and working :D Does exactly what it should, I set the clock first then set the timer for 5 minutes after before sitting in the back and waiting anxiously! The first thing to happen was the engines coolant pump started followed by the climate module showing the outline of the car and "HE" in the display, then low and behold the aux heater fired up on its own - ten minutes later the front blower started and the air flow was automatically redirected from where I'd deliberately left it on foot heating to the screen and I think on recirc (need to confirm this but certainly sounded like it), Sat back and got toasty warm in about 20 minutes!! The heater went to the lower power mode and kept the fans on and after 30 minutes the aux heater powered down, five minutes later the blower and coolant pump turned off. FANTASTIC :( Turned the ignition on and the coolants showing about 70*c which is great as she's not been used in 3 days. Voltage was still 12.35 after the cycle which is also great - gonna interogate it with VagCom tomorrow and see if there are any settings I can play with, check the speed the temperature rises and also measure the fuel consumption. You dont realise how noisy the aux heater is when its running on its own, its also extreamly weird to hear it on a cars that "off"! Pictures to follow :)