Mirez

Nope, has no effect on the C/L or E/W at all - your issue is far more likely to be broken wires in the drivers door.

Thanks Mirez One thing I just thought of. I heard that Air Con doesn't work under 10 degrees on Lo setting. Today is the 1st day I can remember since buying the car that it has been higher than 10 degrees (it says 10 or 10.5). Do you think this could have anything to do with it? Where's the drier cap btw? - and what sort of crap am I looking for? Is it an easy fix or expensive one? Cheers WJUK It shouldn't matter but I can't say for certain, the pressure switch won't be effected by temperature but the system running or not will effect the pressure. The drier cap is to the left of the condensor (as looked at from the front of the engine) - if you look in through the ford badged grill, to the upper left, you'll see a black plastic cap and its under there you need to look (you'll need to undo the 4 thorx screws and pull the grill forward slightly to remove the cap). The crud will likely be a goldy/rusty coloured looking stain which may be yellowy/green where the A/C dye has coloured it. Its a reasonably easy fix and not the most expensive in the world but not cheap either - the parts are about

You can clear the codes fine, it sounds like its been leaking for a while and the dealers just recharged it to get the panel to stop flashing - take a look under the drier cap and I bet it'll be full of crap.

Ahh the old 792 error - the amount of A/C gas is too low (or possibly too high if you've recently had it charged), most likely a leaking condensor at the drier cap. 17978, could be a number of reasons but its basically not seen the transponder in the key, most likely caused by a blocked signal - have you got lots of other metal things on the keyring?

Seen that a couple of times, I've also seen it come detached from the rear window. the drivers side rear quater window has the aerial incorporated into it - if you look above it you'll see a plastic cover which is where the aerial wiring sits - it can become detached at this point as well.

The 6000 will work fine. I have seen a few cases where the ford radios simply "forget" they have a changer attached. If you have the radio code (or send me the serial ;) ) then unplug the power connector to the back of the headunit, wait a minute or so and the plug it all back in.

I've got a 5 proper Mk2 Galaxy ones, including the ultra rare full fis galaxy one (only fitted with factory nav and steering control options). Let me know spec and mileage and I'll code them prior to sending - taking offers before ebay ;)

There is a locking nut ;)

Nothing left to fit now m8, all the optional extras from all three models is now fitted lol - just the steering wheel controls to do. The galaxy emblem isn't lit on the mk2 clocks, although it would be easy enough to do - pointless for me now though ;) I'll do more when its all coloured up as its now in bits but it'll be nice to have full FIS display. I must say I'm extreamly chuffed, mainly because so many people said it couldn't be done (which is like a red-rag to me lol), those who claimed to have done it couldn't show me any evidence or explain how they'd done it http://www.fordmondeo.org/forum/images/smilies/eek13.gif, and from the few discussions out there on instrument cluster swapping none of it really applies to the galaxy cluster. I've also been told some complete crap presented as fact which makes it all the more fun to show it done and working, including the speedo (yes the bit I'll supposedly NEVER get working ;) ) Just picking the colour scheme now (thinking of blue and green or red and white at the moment) then I've got to replace the sump so I can mount the oil level/temp sensor and the workings of the cluster are finalised. Then I'll do the comms between the nav and the cluster to get the nav instructions up on the FIS and the projects completed. Total cost so far is

There is a seperate fuse for the changer - its part of the changers loom. I can't remember if its on the back of the headunit or the changer but its 3amp IIRC

Just thought I'd bring this back to the top... mainly to annoy all those above that said categorically that it couldn't be done... it may have been a little while but they are in, 100% working - every gauge and light ;) Ha! Photo's to follow (they are out again for the backlighting LED's to be changed)...

No Vagcom can't tell you - they are all fed from the same supply down one cable with no comms, it wouldn't even know if they were all faulty as its an unmonitored circuit. You can test them though, remove the engine plastic cover and you'll see them - remove the wiring connectors to all of them and then (with a multimeter in resistance mode) put the red probe on the top of each plug in turn and the black one on any part of the block. You should expect a reading of no more then 6ohms but ideally less then 2ohm. Generally though you'll find they fail open circuit in which case you simply won't be able to measure a resistance.

Welcome! I assume it was working before when the runner was broken? The assembly you replaced, was it from the same year as yours? The assy is showing 7 different part numbers across the 96>06 period and 3 between 96 and 98 - that said with a quick look the wiring seems to be the same 96>00. Depending on where you got the unit (ie new or used), I would apply 12V direct to the motor terminals in short taps to ensure the motor is working - then work back up the wiring.

Oooh, it's starting to sound complicated, but then, these things are never as simple as they seem at first. I need to check a few details first. I will let you know. :) No worries, the controller is in the CJB top level and is labeled as C544 / A329 (second row down, second 'relay' in)

I don't know who's right or wrong on this one but it makes for interesting reading. (I'll throw this link in though) and one thing I will say is to confirm Radiotwo's comment - there is a weighbridge near me on a busy A road and VOSA are there most days in the layby pulling vans, lorries and caravans in and presumably then weighing them. To add to the mix, IF its overweight and therefore illegal - that'll invalidate your insurance so if you are unlucky enough to be caught up in an accident you COULD end up with a

You mean the lap timer? Sort of, some seem to have it available to select and some don't - I'm still compiling a list as to what years can/can't but its looking likely there was a software revision around 2003 - probably when the front end was facelifted.

Ok well I'm still using it for a few more things at the moment but then I'll write a how-to and get this sorted for you guys :blink:

Fuel trim is where the ECU fine tunes the running of the engine - when its doing short term its shortening the length of time the injectors are spraying petrol and long term is (obviously) where is lengthens it. I can't help with the other questions but for the FT function to work correctly the ECU needs 5 vital signals. Coolent Temperature, Engine Speed, Throttle Position, HEGO (Lambda) and MAF. Of those the HEGO sensor is probably the most likely to fail (age).

Ok, The constant tone and flashing LED indicate a fault with the system and a fault will be generated if one or more sensors are defective but this INCLUDES being disconnected (O/C)- therefore disconnecting them either individually or as a bank would only put the system into error state anyway and thus won't prove anything. There are three wires to each sensor, a common ground, common supply and individual signal cable - if you've checked the first 3 to 5cm of wiring from each sensors connector then its unlikely to be a wiring fault - its FAR more likely to be a defective sensor, the "tick test" is a crude and very basic test to see if there is power and ground to each one but thats it - internal sensor faults are just as common, find someone local with diagnostic kit and get the error code read - it'll tell you instantly which one(s) are defective.

Yup, its the bit behind the steering wheel that all the wiring passes through - you need to get the correct one though as its also the ESP steering sensor so if you have ESP and the other car hasn't or vice-versa then it won't work. The module IIRC sits in the fusebox level 3 but I can check that later for you. If you decide not to fit then I'll buy it all of you :unsure:

No question is daft! They won't have an effect on the pump so it'll make listening easier if you find somewhere quiet and turn everything off. Whilst you can hear it in the cabin, it'll me clearer to open the bonnet and listen there instead. There are no error codes when it fails, you might possibly get aux heater over temp ones but nothing directly related to the pump. Replacement is reasonably easy, about

I doubt it can be done on the Mk1 cluster but you can send me the eep file and I'll take a look if you want. VDS Pro can't do it, you arn't talking to a VAG component but a VDO one - hence you need a different lead as comms arn't established the same way.

Ah I wonder if that is the noise I hear when I turn the key but don't start . Like a short humming. Almost sounds like its sucking water (thats not really a good description tho). Don't think I can hear it constantly tho Thats the fuel pump! Turn the ignition on, wait 20 seconds then turn it off and remove the key - if you can't hear a constant humming noise its dead, they seem to fail between 60 and 80K, mines almost failed as the hum is alternating in frequency now.

I'm fairly sure it won't autoscan using the shareware version.