Mirez

globalclose.bmp Make that ^^^^^^^^^ (Excuse my dodgy quick art lol)

A quick look would suggest its positive switched on the earlier cars, so you'll need to use your negative switched output to drive a relay. Route your supply through a 10amp fuse and put it onto either pin 8 or 9 of C230 (Central Locking / Theft Module - Below passenger seat RHD) - both are .5 (ie small) cables. Pin 8 is Grey from the passenger door lock and tailgate switch. Pin 9 is Green from the drivers lock. Holding either of these high (ie 12v) should trigger global closing but it'll be easy to test that with a volt meter first :25:

I've got a few for the various controllers around the car, I'll fire up the laptop later and start a new thread with them all attached :25:

Its a second taillight and it has indeed blown :25:

No problems - glad its sorted. I do have a label file I made up I would have sent you but work got in the way of helping lol! Hopefully you should be able to replace the switch and get the alarm up and working again now, and its nice to hear your not a bodger and just gonna leave it disconnected! lol :25:

Just because the door is locking isn't confirmation that the door is classed as closed (ie, the ecu thinks the door is closed) as the doors will lock even on the 1st latched position - go back into vag-com, reload controler 9 but then go into "Measuring blocks" - from memory I think you want to look at block 5 - but you should find the block that shows the reported status of each door including the bonnet and tailgate. Obviously with all doors shut that should be reported as such within the block, if one isn't then thats the cause of your fault.

Unlikely, there was never a dvd changer option fitted to either the visteon multimedia system or the blaupunkt navigation unit. Whatever make the changer is its highly unlikely to be compatible with the navs din connector.

The V6 on a 2001 is VW's VR6 engine as used in the passat/golf :) 2000

Sorry I seem to have missed a number of posts here. Gadgetoid next time I take the setup apart I'll get the build date for you, I can't imagine the TMC box has any influence over playback either however I was under the impression the G units need one to communicate with the FIS display. Mine came with the box hence its fitted but I would say the TMC data isn't super great, its exactly the same as my TomTom tmc traffic so its semi-usefull. Kebrina, the cable you want is an audio extension phono cable. It is male to male, 2 head and you'll probably need a 5m version. To sum up, if you look at the ebay photo of the adaptor: http://i9.ebayimg.com/05/i/001/2e/59/121b_12.JPG The black 90degree connector (far left) plugs into the back of the nav unit, the black and red sockets are the female heads where you'll plug in the male end of the extension cable. 5m Phono Cable Thats the 5m Male to Male connector (you can get cheaper ones but thats a better quality one and cars can produce some weird noises on audio equipment if its not screened). You'll connect one end at the adaptor and the other end into the back of your DVD player. You may need to get a couple of these as well if your DVD player only has one set of phono outputs and you want to keep the option of using headphones.

Yeah I like them, are they 18 or 19" ?

yup, named "02N" and takes 2.5 litres of G51 SAE 75w-90

There isn't a lights on warning on the Mk2 and, sadly, there isn't an option for it in the cluster so it can't be enabled :)

The scuttle is below all that upper plastic. Leave the wipers on and open the bonnet, at the back you'll see a rubber seal - lift that up and off. You can then see the scuttle panel that runs the width of the engine bay directly below all the upper plastics - its actually easy to miss as its huge but yes the whole thing will slide out! There are two bolts at each end (under foam blocks if they are still there) and one more in the center. I normally remove the airbox to aid sliding it out and it makes it much easier to reinstall correctly (there are 3 metal groves it sits in).

Correct, remove that first! You then need to remove the wiper arms and the plastic panels all then pop off, you are reasonbly unlikely to do it without breaking them though so unless you really need to I wouldn't bother. You should be able to get to the drains with just the scuttle removed though, the rest of the trim won't give that much more access as there is metal work under them anyway.

There isn't any safety system on a Mk2 gal for detecting a flat tyre, its unlikely even ESP would have done anything unless you were pushing it into the corners at the time. I wouldn't be overly concerned, its possibly the old sticking turbo problem that just happened to occur at the same time.

In all fairness you can do it either way but in my opinion just undoing the cap is the lazy option. Very simply you WILL force old brake fluid back into the ABS chamber doing it without using the bleed nippples and that certainly isn't a wifes tale - it CAN cause some very expensive problems. Don't forget that water enters the system over the years (albeit in tiny quantities) but since thats heavier then the brake fluid it'll always end up down at the back of the pistons. Depending on how old the fluid is it'll likely have small particals of metal/rust as a result and if you pass that back into the ABS block then it could easily damage the seals. There is also the possibility of flipping the seals if you retract them too fast. As with everything its a question of dilligance, time and prior servicing. When I changed the fluid on my last Mk2 I don't think it had ever been done - there were a number of tiny metal particals in there and I wouldn't have wanted them anywhere near the ABS cylinder. Any of those 25+ year mechanics could have just pumped that back into the abs cylinder and I would have driven off happy that the job was done. It could take days, months or years but if my ABS system then failed could you prove liability? Probably not so why would they care? Saving time and getting the highest number of cars in/out are most garages concerns. This is not a slur on anyone who's already posted in this thread, but it makes me laugh that a lot of people take on DIY tasks and then cut as many corners as possible - if your saving the massive labour bill from a garage then spend the extra on getting quality parts, replacing semi-worn stuff and take the time to do it perfectly. For me, it's a much better feeling to complete the job and know it's been done BETTER then 99% of garages would do it rather then think it's been done the SAME as 99% of garages :)

Only one side is monitored so you should only have one sensor wire. Undoing the nipples is very important, if you don't undo then when widing the piston back in you'll be forcing fluid the wrong way through the ABS pump. There is the potential to flip the seals in the unit then which will trash it. Its not tricky but make sure you get the process right else you'll also draw air into the system which is a git to get back out! I would use an assistant (the missus lol) to control the nipple, only open it when you have just started retracting the piston and close it just before you stop so fluid is always being forced out. It would be wise to change the brake fluid at the same time if its not been done in the past 2 years. That was a minefield of smut! :)

AUY is 115 ASZ is 130 ASZ1 is 150 The 150 was just an engine option, not a spec level so there isn't anything special in terms of trim you can look for.

Its not that bad, the evaporator is the real expensive bit (dash out) followed by the compressor (part cost) and then the condensor. I've never heard of evaporators failing though, the one on this site was the first I've come across so put that down to a freak fail. Compressors fail due to lack of oil in the system caused by leaks in the drier cap. The cap's fail because of poor servicing - very few dealers have any clue but the VW literature states the drier is a service item with a two year interval (and comes with cap)- I highly doubt your car (or nearly every other on here) will have ever had that changed before, hence the deterioration in the seal and the leak.

Good how-to there! I'll just add the yellow clips are part# 1008068 (superceeded with 1232918) as you'll probably break a few :)

Lol, there are some on ebay at the moment for

The cheap-o fix is to replace the receiver drier and cap (the bits under the outter cap I mentioned above) - its not a good fix though as the seal area will be damaged so the condensor (the bit the drier sits in (looks like a radiator)) should be replaced at the same time to do the job properly.

Nope sorry mate, Mk2's only.