Mirez

Tricky to say without knowing the kit manufacturer, seeing the plug or knowing what year or spec you are fitting it on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! However when I fitted my ford kit to the Mk2 there are three brown plugs behind the trim in the drivers side compartment, as you look at it in the lowest back corner, just where the panel curves around to meet the tailgate. PITA to get to though, you really need to remove or at lease loosen the panel to get to them.

I'm sure its already been said somewhere in this thread but I'll reiterate now anyway - we should all STILL be using the A/C system. A/C will work (hopefully!) in the cold or HOT position, its not just for cooling air but also for removing moisture from it. The A/C gas contains an oil which keeps all the seals and the compressor in good condition, when you stop using it for a length of time these seals will dry and over time will allow the gas to leak causing more expensive damage in the long run. If your A/C is working but you havn't used it because its winter - go use it now! Anyway on to the question, yes that pipe can be replaced and it is indeed in two parts - joined under the drivers side headlight. Not the funnest of jobs to do as a fair bit of stuff needs to come off the car to allow access for the pipe tool - the pipes around

I need to refresh my own memory on the condition and tyres so I'll take you some photos over the weekend so you can see them and then just make me an offer - I'm not after super money for them, and I'll be heading to Scotland over the easter weekend so could meet you somewhere.

What condition are you after? I have a set of "well used" alloys with good tyres going...

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=341657 Same thing out of the pretty packaging.... it won't get you anywhere near a +35bhp increase though but it will overfuel the car and possibly kill the cat In fact buy mine and I guarentee you could get UP TO a 70000 BHP increase ;)

There is deffinately some kind of comms check between the stalk and cluster at start up, one thing I noticed when I was doing all the coding is that if you change the country code to something other then UK (and a few others) then the trip computer dissapears and you are left with just the air temp. This is because LHD cars obviously have the stalk on the other side so the comms check fails and the cluster configures itself as no trip installed. Steevo, since you've only just bought the car its possibly had a replacement instrument cluster at some point which hasn't been coded properly to the car - you need someone local with vagcom that can check/recode for you. Other then that... I would suggest both of your issues might be stalk, or stalk wiring, related.

We are talking Mk3's here :rolleyes: Your car is a Mk2 - you'll have vents in the roof for rear passengers which is dual A/C. The vents are fed via a tube up the passenger D pillar hrnce there is no room for the motor.

Have you got an Eberspacher dealer near you then? 20.1820.99.0001.0A - Kit, Seal 25.2121.99.0113.0A - Flame Protector The VW part numbers are: 7D0 898 003 - Kit, Sealing @

Nope not yet, not at home this week :rolleyes:

lol no worries :rolleyes: When I've done mine in the past I normally remove the airbox (one screw and a pipe clip) as it allows the panel to slide out to that side which (IMO) makes it much easier! Good luck!

I'm not sure exactly what bit's broken? Thats how its shown as a parts breakdown, it sounds like you are talking about the clip that latches into part 9? If so then A, how the hell did you manage it because its metal reinforced? and B, you'll need a new belt as it can't be replaced on its own. As a temp workaround and only if nobodys going to use the seat you can remove the whole seat prior to taking the car for its MoT and it should pass with an advisory as it can't be tested.

Ok you won't be able to do this without a nav disk in the unit: Turn it on and press the "NAVI" button - wait for the disk to load and the screen to change a map Push the right rotary dial in once for enter Scroll to the bottom right option (SETTINGS) and push enter again Scroll to the top left option (SELECT LANGUAGE) and push enter Scroll down 3 options to "ENGLISH IMPERIAL" and push enter Done :rolleyes:

You can test this using Vagcom and using the "output tests" option, one of them is a full segment LED test which will light the whole center section. Shameless plug: I still have a few Mk2 clusters available for sale :rolleyes:

You can buy me one at the same time as no it wasn't! You need to read more carefully. You asked how to remove the plastic cowling under the windscreen and to do that you need to remove the wipers - I answered the question you asked. We then gave you an alternative for what you need to do and for that you don't need to remove the plastic panels to remove the scuttle tray and so wouldn't remove the wipers.

Thought it would be interesting to see how common the optional extras are as I wasn't aware of just how expensive some of them were from the factory (Nav was

I'll check the menu's tomorrow for you

The pressure should subside with the engine off, in theory you'd actually have more if the engine was running. There is a possibility thats its seized on but its somewhat unlikely, should just compress though - how are you doing it?

Just compress them back in, they don't need to be wound like the rears.

It'll be in module 1 under fault codes, there is't a code for over speeding though (lol) so whatever code is there you should write down, clear, and then see if comes back. The MAF has some fault codes it can generate however most of the time when it "fails" it won't show up as a direct code. Also 99% of the time when they fail they are done, I've not heard of any failing and then working for a little bit on and off. I would look more at that code first though...

No :) That switch is a 3 pin unit that controls the interior lighting and dash panel. You can get them from Ford, VW or Seat. Alternatively use a local scrapyard or ebay. The older golf's and passats use the same switches. The ford part number is 95VW13713 DA (FINIS: 1046030) which is showing as a retail of only

To complete the alhambra cluster conversion I need to install the oil temp/level sender unit in the sump. I've got a new sump complete with sender from the same year so its a simple swap out job. My questions are: First, is there anything blocking the sump or is it just unbolt and remove? No dropping of the exhaust or anything? Second, there are lots of seals/gasket kits available to buy yet ford don't show the TDI as having a gasket fitted to the sump - instead they use "1197787, Sump Pan Sealer" thoughts on whats best? Third, they show a baffle plate fitted? Don't have one on the new sump so I'll use the old one but where's it mount to as there arn't any fixings? Finally, I was told there was a gauze fitted to the oil pickup tube yet I can't find that on the parts catalogue? Anyone got a number? Thanks!

I'm assuming you had that fault before you added the relay as you shouldn't have touched the unlocking wiring :) 95% of alarms have the option to change the locking between .5 and 3.5 seconds, look in the installers guide and it should say how to change it. What alarm is it?

Sorry Kate I don't seem to have the designers booklet anymore :)

Yup, I'll upload you a picture when I get back :)

I doubt you need a new turbo, you just need to clean out the crud thats in the current one. Redex and similar will help but far better will be getting it right up to temperature and burning all the muck off - you need that engine oil nice and warm first so drive around for a good 20 minutes first and then use the full rev range for a bit in 2,3 and 4th - repeat a couple of times.