seatkid

IIRC several people have used Sonys and say they are great. Try a search of the forum to find the exact model numbers.

Enter the code with buttons 1 to 4, then press "Select" button If you enter an incorrect code 3 times you must wait 30mins before the next attempt with the radio switched on during this time After 10 unsuccessful attempts the radio will be permanently locked and needs to be sent to a specialist to be unlocked.

1. Some people have no (discernable) sense of humour :D 2. If a teaspoonful kills a cat, don't think I'll try tasting it, I haven't mastered the art of tasting without swallowing... 3. Apparently ATF is non toxic, but I have no idea how it tastes :D 4. Being selfish, I wish to live till I get to 100 - or thereabouts :o

G12 Plus Coolant Additive VW Part Number: G 012 A8F A1 Mat. Number: G 012 A8F 01 Harmful if swallowed. Keep out of reach of children. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. If swallowed, seek medical advice immediately and show this container or label. Better to let your neighbour's dog sniff and taste it. If the dog seems to like it, it more likely to be coolant. WARNING, read below before attempting this.

From what I can recall many years ago, ATF oil was red and rather watery thin - not very oil-like at all. The VAG hydraulic oil I bought for the power steering was clear and somewhat thicker, but still thinner than new engine oil. Coolant evaporates and leave a whiteish residue whereas oil obviously doesnt. Examine the water pump and radiator end tanks at the bottom for signs of leaks/residue. It should be easy to spot a gearbox leak, remove the undertray (if it has one) and examine under the box. Its unlikely to show a leak "at the front" as slow oil leaks usually cover the under side of the engine/gearbox and spray back under the chassis.

Hi. Welcome.

Sounds to good to be true :D lady only driver?.....just kidding. :lol: Options dont raise the price much, unless the buyer has a particular desire for them. The seats may make it easy to sell to a young family, though. My opinion is all cars on Ebay are either stolen/clocked/not quite right and have hidden difficult/impossible to fix/expensive faults. (I would be particularly wary of those with service history in Japanese........ :D ) Difficult time to sell big petrol motors although the 2000 reg helps.

Juddering was probably because the clutch/flywheel was stinking hot. They do that. Should be OK now its cooled down.

Do they do flourescent yellow? That'll get you noticed. I wonder what the accident statics say about various colours? Basically lighter colours = safer car. Had a green car once, and it seemed to have more than its fair share of near misses. I say it blended in with hedgerows too much. And I saw a grey/green car recently (sort of army camoflague colour) that I didnt see until I was only a few metres away..... :lol:

Just thinking out loud - Fords used to be fitted with a "smart" alternator which could do various tricks such as reduce charging whilst accelerating heavily to boost power and to increase charging voltage significantly (over 15 volts) for a short time to "properly" charge modern Calcium technology lead acid batteries. If they still fit these smart alternators then I suspect its a wiring design issue or ecu software issue or a problem with the alternators themselves.

AHU is considered by many to be one of the best VW diesels ever produced for reliability and longevity- almost bulletproof.

Well done - I suspect most "faulty" fobs are a similar story.

I meant a sticker that looks something like this.... My V5 document also lists an engine no. the first three letters of which signify the engine type (in my case AHU - 90bhp - yours might be 1Z also 90 bhp) - although it seems not all V5's do this..... If your tailgate has an all siver Tdi then thats 90bhp, the 110bhp has a red i The tdi is not that fussy about oil, its the later PD engines where the oil is critical. Fully synth is good for 10k especially in taxis that are in constant use - why waste money?

You better check that list - Motul Oils 4100 Power SAE 15w-50 is not 505.01 its 500.01 which is a petrol engine oil spec not suitable for PD

Open the rear offside storage compartment (where the jack is) - There is a large sticker just in front of the rear light cluster - All the info you require is there. P.S. 66kW = 90bhp As yours is a TDi and not a PD, the correct oil should meet spec VW 505.00 which is not a very demanding spec by modern standards. I would recommend using a good quality synthetic or semi-synthetic. You can buy Quantum Synta at VW/Seat dealers - the silver pack is semi synthetic 10W-40 and is usually reasonably priced. If your taxi will be doing high mileage and changing the oil at 10,000 miles regularly then this oil will be sufficient. If you want to squeeze some extra mpg (~3 - 5%), then use a 5w-30W fully synthetic that meets 505.00 spec. Lots of different types available.........

Almost certainly down to the wiring in the door gaiters - probably shorting or the connectors needs cleaning

Check for shorts and broken wires in the tailgate rubber gaitors. The heated door mirrors only heat when the rear heated window is turned on. The rubber gaitors between the doors and pillars also commonly have degraded wiring insulation leading to short/open circuits.

I replaced my original (Varta) battery at 5yr old and fitted the biggest bestest battery I could find which was an Exide Ultra at 95Ah 850CCA (4 yr warranty) - fills the entire battery tray - now almost 5yr old and still going strong. You can get higher performance batteries - with new technology construction (IIRC glass mat constuction) - but they are very much more expensive. CCA rating is more important than Ah - particularly for diesels. Any major brand e.g Bosch/Varta/Exide/Lucas should be good - IMO don't buy batteries from a motorist discount - you will likely be sold an obscure/recycled brand of dubous manufacture that has not been stored and handled correctly. Make sure any battery you buy is "fresh" - check the date code (ask them) - don't accept any over 3 month old - they should be returned to the factory. And only buy from a place that has kept made up (filled) batteries on standby charge. You don't want a battery that has been allowed to discharge deeply - it will have a short life. And if the fitter "drops" the battery on the ground, then reject it. Vibration/shock is the no.1 killer of lead acid batteries.

;) 2nd member in 2 weeks.....No further comment...... Antifreeze is called G12+ available from vw/audi/seat/skoda dealers.

hmmm.....never heard of "sealing off the aircon" - Galaxy a/c's often leak but as its R134a gas, once its leaked out, thats it. You don't need to seal anything. If they are going to replace the matrix, it would be a good opportunity to replace the a/c evaporator (but only if thats where the leak in the a/c is), as they both require a stripdown of the dash. But if you're happy to live without the a/c then thats OK Hope it doesnt end up costing you too much. Remember always maintain the correct level of antifreeze (between 30% and 50%) and top up with the correct mixture (not just plain water) otherwise corrosion will cost you dear. Use only approved antifreeze. (G12+ for VAG engines - you never did tell what engine you have......)

Hi, welcome. Hope you have a troublefree experience with your Galaxy, in which case I'm sure you'll continue to love it.

ebay? - crook? - I don't believe it! :rolleyes:

Yes, I think the PCB is conformally coated with some kind of lacquer. This is usual practice where water/moisture is expected. IIRC the failure of this module is due to 1. A stalled motor leading to overheating of one of the power mosfets, which fails either sort circuit (wipers permanently on) or open circuit (wipers not working) once blown this is a permanent fault. An electonic engineer may be able to replace the faulty mosfet. Check the fuse in the fusebox is of the correct rating as this should blow first. 2. Water getting under the lacquer coat and corrosion/moisture leading to the module intermittently not working or permanently stuck on. In this case, drying out the module and cleaning up the corrosion using solvent based cleaner, may solve the problem. After you get it working, relacquer the board to prevent reoccurence. There is a chance that the corrosion/moisture leads to a condition where 2 mosfets are on at once and one of them blows (see 1) New modules are horrendously expensive.

see here Try not to post the same question on more than one thread.

harpster Usual reasons for factory fitted alarm problems are 1. Water ingress into the remote locking/alarm control unit on those models where its fitted under the front seats in the floor. 2. Interior ultrasonic sensor alarm (optional extra) goes off if the windows arent fully closed and there is a rapid temperature drop. You can disable the alarm by turning the key twice in succession when locking the car, or pressing the remote lock twice (wait a couple of seconds between each action) - First operation locks the car, second will release the deadlocks and switch off the alarm (the indicators will flash to acknowledge)