seatkid

No, it does not sound right. Head gasket failure is usually dramatic, engine overheating and water system overpressurising and coolant lost not only in the engine, but obviously from the header tank cap (due to overpressure). Also "emulsion" evident on oil filler cap/dipstick. Less dramatic on TDi engines but head gasket failure on these are rare, and head cracking (around valves) is the usual reason for head related water loss. There is no way you get water in the footwell due to a blown head gasket. However the "leaking?" pipes and "repairs" to the matrix point to something. You could ask your garage to bypass the matrix, i.e. connect the in/out pipes together. You wont have a front heater, but you could determine if water loss continued. And the water in the footwell should stop. BTW the other reasons for water in the footwell are 1. Leaking rear window washer pipe. (Water in passenger side only) 2. Leaking window/bulkhead seals allowing rainwater in. Basically your garage don't know what they're doing. Find another garage.

See how I fixed my keyfob

1999 NCAP result - 3 stars adult occupant, 2 stars pedestrian

Check the inside of the petrol flap. On mine is a label with a full list of tyre pressures vs tyr size vs load

That result is for the new Ford Galaxy (mkIII) The older Galaxy has a 3 star rating IIRC.

Sounds like the infamous "relay 30" - intermittent fuel pump relay - check the FAQ Also (loose) fusebox connections to this/other relays are known to give intermittent problems.

I had the same problem - I fixed mine this way: 1. Take the batteries/seperator plate out - make sure not to lose the PATS chip, do it on a table so if it drops out you can find it! 2. Use pcb cleaner or other solvent based cleaner (I used brake & clutch cleaner) on a qtip to clean all the battery connections well, particularly the points of contact. 3. Clean the soldered area on the pcb where the triple battery contact makes its connection. (if the pcb solder is worn away exposing the copper, this may require resoldering - mine didnt look too bad so I didnt do this) 4. Retension the spring contacts a little using a screwdriver (don't go mad though!) - 5. Clean the batteries and seperator plate with solvent and replace, trying not to touch the mating surfaces with your fingers 6. Reassemble If the fob still doesnt work 100%, then what I also did as part of my investigation was 7. Remove the pcb from the fob - this is quite fiddly so only attempt this if you're sure you are capable. First "unsquash" the pcb mounting lugs as best you can with small long nose pliers. Then carefully prise up the pcb with a small screwdriver near one lug - with luck, it should pop out. Repeat with second lug. 8. clean both side of pcb with cleaner (spray), particularly the pcb switches 9. Then I added two small pieces of waxed/plastic coated (i.e. waterproof) paper over the pcb switches to act as a shim 10. carefully reassemble - there should be no need to "squash" the mounting lugs if the pcb "clicks back in"...... And now I have a 100% reliable fob (for the time being anyway) :)

Its a full dashboard strip out, which is at least 1 day probably 2 days labour. That and a new matrix plus new coolant will be several hundred pounds. If its failed due to corrosion (for reasons as stated previously) then further corrosion damage elsewhere may be lurking. e.g. rear heater matrix, water pump, even engine head

Oh dear, looks like the heater matrix is now leaking and needs to be replaced. :rolleyes: Is the water in the footwell, engine coolant? (try and sponge some up into a glass and check colour against the header tank) If the previous owner and/or you and/or garage have topped up with plain water, or the wrong antifreeze has been used (i.e. not G11/ G12+) or strength then the reason the heater matrix has failed is due to internal corrosion. I take it the a/c doesnt work? (hence the display flashing - probably low gas)

IF YOU HAVE A DIESEL Mk1 or Mk2 Galaxy IT IS ESSENTIAL TO HAVE AN UNDERTRAY FITTED. Also the front towing eye has a cover which should be there. Without these water can easily get onto the power steering belt/pulley causing momentary loss of power assistance, which anyone who experiences it will tell you is scary. It is a known safety issue. The tray is fitted as standard from the factory. If it is missing then someone who serviced it, did not replace it, which is dangerous and negligent. You may want to consider this if you have been involved in an accident as a result. Sorry for the caps but I think it warrants it.

The LED in the door gives a clue whether the immobiliser is working or not. Try a forum search for immobiliser and you should find information about this. I can recall only one post where the immobiliser reader coil in the ignition switch area was broken so that is not common. The vast majority of non starting problems are due to:- 1. Lost PATS chip in the key (when people change the battery and it drops out) - this though is a permanent no-start fault 2. Fautly/intermittent relay (30 is the favourite) or poor connection to a relay - the fusebox-relay connections are often the culprit.

I fixed mine! Heres what I did..... Disconnecting the car battery to reboot the electronics made no difference. :) So it was down to disecting the key. I stripped it down entirely (not for the faint hearted) and found the buttons are indeed sealed pcb types so thats not the problem. :( Then I looked and thought...... :angry2: Notice the wear pattern on the (nearly new) battery? - a circle. Obviously the battery is rotating during use. So I sprung the main battery connection (the one on the PCB) up a bit and reassembled. Voila! Works each and every time. :lol: Poor battery connection is my conclusion. For those who are interested, here is where the PATS chip is located btw my remote works by wireless, which is the vast majority of Galaxy remotes. Only a few very early Galaxys had real infrared remotes.

I don't know if this helps. On my Fabia 1.2 (which uses a typical VAG pencil coil) I used a large flat screwdriver to lever it up while pulling with fingers - it requires an inital "tug" to overcome the spark plug end connection and the stiction of the rubber seal.

A japanese import??! FSH in japanese? :angry2: Have you bought this car on ebay?

look up relay 30 - fuel pump relay -its in the faq.

Recently I have started suffering the same problem and seen several other similar posts. As the key led flashes, it shouldnt be the key.... :angry2: .....but I'm not absolutely sure. Normally I strip down any remote control that was playing the goat and clean the button switch surface which always gets caked in body grease (for some inexplicable reason), but with this key this means destroying some lugs that may make it difficult to put it together again.....so.....instead I will disconnect my car battery tomorrow to reset the car electronics as a first step....... I'll let you know how I get on.

My Tom Tom does this. It tells you what the current road speed limit is and then "bongs" if you go over the speed limt. It doesn't work on some B roads but all Motorways and A roads. I use this in conjunction with my Cruise control to keep the right side of the law. Interesting......

Or maybe it hasn't......

By eck its seems to have fixed itself!! AI???

Last 2-3 days this forum has become unworkable with timeouts all over the place.... Time to contact GTEUK someone........

From your description, there have been major problems in a previous life. The cooked oil means the box has either been abused (e.g. towing) and a brake band has worn out and been slipping. The brake bands control which gear is selected. If they're worn, you are looking at a recon gearbox - its not worth thinking about trying to overhaul yours..... The fact that the level tube has been damaged (its plastic and easy to break if overtightened), means the oil has been changed at least once before, so it does not look good......I recall several posts here where people with shagged autoboxes were looking for simple fixes so they could get rid quick. If the box is overfilled, it will overheat, wear will be rapid and you may have catastrophic failure. Gearboxes (and engines and power steering etc) only work reliably with the correct amount of oil. Sorry, but I think you've been sold a duffer. I would take 30,000 miles on a 1998 with a pinch of salt unless FSH and receipts are available.

No

I would welcome a system that gives an audible warning when you go over the speed limit that applies at the time. This would keep me from inadvertantly speeding and risking a ticket but leave me with the flexibility to allow a temporary transgression if the situation warranted it. A "hard" limit of 75mph or 80mph should be applied to all vehicles for safety reasons.

Changing/checking autobox oil has been discussed many times on the forum. You seem to have bought a car with overfilled box. I suspect that the previous owner was having problems. Gearchange problems can result from low oil, but far more likely is due to internal wear - brake bands in particular. Being the cynic I am, Iwould say the previous owner overfilled it to get it working acceptably, or he was ignorant and just overfilled it. Now you grossly overfilled it and run it, its possible more damage has been done. Only thing to do is to drain the excess and see what happens. If the colour/smell of the drained oil is bad, consider a full drain/refill.

To drain you 1st take the bolt out, then you use same size allen key placed up the hole and undo the 2nd part of the assembly and the level tube will come out. If you only remove the bolt, then any oil that drains out is above the correct level. Leave it until no further oil drains, then the oil level is correct. This procedure should be carried out when the oil is lukewarm (between 35 and 45 deg C). It should not be cold or hot as the level will then be incorrect.