seatkid

IIRC a lot of problems with the early auto ecus were with connections in the multiway plug/socket to the gearbox. Also lots of wires that can break.... Then the gearbox itself may be faulty - often due to abuse (towing) and burnt/low oil. If you get some gears then I doubt the ecu is faulty.

Your car is bugged. Could be MI5, or the taxman.... :lol:

It sits in blade end of the housing http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/uploads/monthly_12_2009/post-892-1259766627.jpg

From experience..... I found one of my previous Conti tyres (yes .... i know) which had a puncture repair, toward the end of it life developed a wobble and pulling sharply to one side - it was the repair to blame. I found out recently what that those coloured lines on the treads of brand new tyres were. They signify the measured drag characteristics of the tyre. Those with marks closely grouped in the middle run true and straight whereas those with marks offest to one side, pull to one side. The theory is you should get a pair of tyre that are matched or balance out to stop the car drifting to one side or another. Eliminate the tyres first ...... yes could be camber problem - unfortunately its not really adjustable - although I reckon someone really determined could tweak it by moving that bit thats bolted to the upright strut. You might also find that a sideways bash on a rear wheel or worn bushes (front or rear) may have upset the geometry, causing crabbing.

Try swapping tyres over.

He's already changed that...

A lot of "limp home mode" problems are due to leaks in the vacuum piping associated with the turbo control system - perished piping and pipes that have dropped off of been inadvertantly pulled off at servicing. Its a pain, but carefully work you way through the vacuum piping and check it out. Check the piping to the vacuum accumulator on MkII diesels and also the braking system main vacuum piping which often splits. The other problem is sticky vane actuators on turbos - this only applies to cars fitted with variable vane geometry turbos - i.e. 110bhp and upward. They can be freed with a bit of wiggling and application of lubrication - do a search of the forum , it may be in the FAQ - lots of "how to" pictures. 90% certain its one of the above.

Judging from the description given and lack of any useful information...model year,engine, where the smokes coming from, smell (burning/water), engine performance, when it happens (hot/cold), loss of water or oil.....etc etc I expect this poster is beyond help and recommend she takes it to garage. :)

Sticking Idle stabilisation valve (ISV) - do a search for lots more info and how to clean.

You should have sorted it under warranty! Now you are 2 weeks over.... Perhaps if you ask nicely and flutter your eyelashes, the dealer might be able to offer some goodwill. IIRC stalling issues are a common fault and I believe there is a recall for an ECU software update to fix it. Again ask if they can do it for free!

Car details required :huh:

Have you got a tired/failing battery? Could be due to heavy loading from alternator topping up a nearly empty battery. Check the intenal ribbing on the belt, if its all cracked with missing bits of ribbing then its time to change the belt. Check the above before changing the tensioner.

Still on original blades after 11 years 100k+ miles. :huh: The key is to look after them. 1) regularly lift the blades off the screen (for a fraction of a second) by hand, say before the 1st journey of the day. If they are stuck to the screen then gently "peel" them off from one end. In frosty/icy weather, when the blades are iced to the screen, use warm water from a kettle or deicer to melt the ice before lifting them. If you dont do this then they will likely get damaged - small tears to the blade - when you turn on the wipers. 2) When washing the car, last thing to do is use a vinger based window cleaner to remove the wax off the screen. Use a cloth or kitchen roll soaked in window cleaner or diluted vinegar solution and carefully wipe the blades to remove wax and grime. 3) once every couple of years, or if the blades start to smear, remove the wiper blade and wash them thoroughly in the kitchen sink with hot water/washing up liquid.

You could disconnect the electrical plug to the compressor to stop the compressor clutch from engaging - (I assume the compressor is seized which may be the case if you put the belt the wrong way round). Dont know what you greased - you probably greased the clutch! Not a good idea.... Alternatively, you could buy a belt for the version of your car which is not not fitted with a/c. In that case you need to remove or move the compressor out the way.

My guess would be a gunged up EGR valve. I cured my whistling EGR by using Millers Diesel Sport Additive and a few Italian tune ups. It also cured its asthmatic performance, helps it fly through MOTs, makes it run silky smooth, start first turn, does 50+ mpg and makes/fetches me a cup of tea in the morning to bed........wait a minutes that's my wife - one of the other loves of my life ;)

Fumes drawn into cabin - you need to check it out as it probably is dangerous. I seem to remember someone posted that their rear heater housing was damaged (maybe by heat) and was drawing in air from outside (it should be sealed and recirc air only.) Check if fumes/smell coming from rear heater or front heater.

Please note after market retrofit HID kits are illegal and other forums have reported that MOT testing stations and police have started clamping down on them.

Not true, BK! The glowplug light comes on for only a second or so if ambient temperature is greater than about 6 deg C (gestimate) or the engine is at least luke warm. However below this the light stays on longer and longer. At -1 deg C and stone cold engine I reckon it would be on for about 4 - 5 secs. At -20 deg C it stays on at least 10 seconds. That is my experience anyway. It appears to be controlled by combination of external air temp sensor, engine coolant sensor (this is a multiple sensor device) and ECU analysis of very recent engine activity.

We keep repeating this to newbees, only to be ignored.... PLEASE GIVE FULL DETAILS OF CAR AND ENGINE. Particularly, the year and engine variant. There are many variables and you could be using the wrong information for your motor.

Seems I was wrong about the CPS - sorry! :huh: Hope it didnt cost too much!

You should also have a lowish resistance reading between 1+2 and also 3+4. (Its 3 resistors connected in a string). One has blown open.

I think you'll find that Seat part numbers are exactly the same as VW partnumbers.

If its 5 beeps its the crank position sensor IIRC.

you mentioned "replaced flywheel" - I visualised several bolts taken out and replaced - your description of something rattling around in washing machine......just a hunch..... If your car is a 110bhp or 115bhp model - don't they have a DMF? (Dual mass flywheel - known to fail with horrible noise/vibration)