seatkid

Especially when they fall off. :wacko: What nonsense BK!

You have an airlock......and that is the evidence Rocket scientists required........no previous experience necessary

As sepulchrave says just make sure the engine is off and swap the filter. Ford Technician != Rocket scientist :wacko:

The injector on No 3 cylinder is the one with the needle sensor IIRC

See here for pics

I was told by an AA man that even with the full recovery cover package, recovery is free only for the 1st 100 miles and then its

You have an airlock - search the forum on how to fill the cooling system properly.

Its also schizophrenic as it thinks its a Mk III! Send it in for therapy :16:

Bought a new dog yet Gregs? :16:

Give over, 500 bar = 7350psi !!! Nobody makes a tester that works at that pressure.

In my experience vw cooling systems always lose water when filled to the maximum mark. They always settle at the minimum mark or just below. As long as its around the minimum mark its OK.

:) Ouch!!! Really? :) I don't believe you...... ;) Starting with brake cleaner is a surefire way to knacker your engine in record time...... White smoke could be a timing problem, possibly the infamous bottom crankshaft loose timing sproket problem.

Ahhh ok, surely that can't be good for your MPG? Indeed..... ;) ...but now I can see on my trip computer when that offside caliper is dragging....... barely touching 51mpg ??? ;) ...a quick dab of wd40 and a light whack with a hammer later....thats better....59mpg......why cant I get 60???? :) , I know, lets drive in the centre lane and reduce the speed to 55mph.....ah.....joy..... :)

Crankshaft position sensor seems to be a suspect.

Humm, either you drive a lot of miles in reverse or they have been changed before you. The front pads shouldn't outlast the rears in normal driving conditions! On the Mk1 its quite common for the rears to wear faster as the parking brake auto adjust mechanism tends to be too aggressive and often sticks on a bit causing semi-permanent pad to disc contact. I have owned my car from new.

:) Change the water pump, it sounds as if the impeller is slipping on the shaft and cant pump the flow at high speed against the thermostat restriction.

Still on original front pads at 99,750, rears replaced at 85,000

For crying out loud......change the water pump :rolleyes: <Opinion of rocket scientist>

TBH I'd be quite concerned about the floor pan rust I can see. You should peel back the underseal and clean the rust with a wire brush, then treat/prime it, spray with some paint to seal it and finally repray some stonechip underseal (screwfix does it in a can). Also it looks as if there has been prior damage to the sill hence the rust although there is a shiny bit that shows that they did some damage. Case could be weak. I'd just get the hammer and pliers out, and wire brush etc etc. Its under the car so you dont have to be an artist......

MO4 blows open the myth that Toyotas last for ever! :( She should get a job with Clarkson. Timing belts - don't you just love em....not :o

If its a PD (Unit injector) engine - you MUST use PD oil to vw 505.01 or better. PD oil has high shear additive to stop camshaft wear that is inevitable with other oils. This is due to the (poor) design of the PD top end and why VW speccd this special oil. You shouldnt have used engine flush - thats probably led to camlobe scoring. Unfortunately, once the case hardening on the camlobe is damaged, it often means rapid wear and destruction follows. The VW spec is important, the viscosity rating is not.

In that case, changing water pump, thermostat and cap should fix it.

Have you ever topped up the coolant with non original antifreeze? Using incompatible antifreeze causes a thick gel to form in the engine block and radiator. Are you losing water and having to top up? Has the car been remapped or chipped?

It was OK for the Galaxy because of the height of the dinky toy that hit it. The bumper beam in the Galaxy did its job. It would be a different story if a large 4x4 or HGV were to ram you.