seatkid

check the battery

Stick some big rubber blocks (3" cube) on them and use them as buffers. or Use a lump hammer and persuade them in. :lol: well....perhaps not.... :16:

Replace.....with a TDI... :16:

Change the fuel filter, its probably not been changed in eons. Self purging AFAIK

Complete tosh. When car companies produce higher power variants, all sorts of things are changed or modified - cylinder head,valves,upgraded cooling, camshaft profiles etc as well as brakes, clutch etc upgraded. It is NOT just a software remap. Read the small print - remap companies ALWAYS disclaim all responsibility for ANY damage to your car. (They'd be fools not to and soon out of business) You do it entirely at your own risk. Remapping a little, light Fabia is one thing but a heavy lumbering Shalaxy that requires more power and torque on a constant basis is another. Enjoy your remap while your car survives. At 200,000 miles I expect you'll see it into an early grave. And if you do start to have "overheating" problems, then please don't sell it on to an unsuspecting person without telling them about the remap. Oh,...and do tell the insurance about it!

Exactly

Relay base connections possibly become loose (stretched open) or connections underneath are loose. Requires a strip down and check all the spade connectors are secure.

Timing problem I think.

Check the fuses first. :)

Wusses :) 1. Fold the seats in the middle row down. 2. Tip the seats in the middle row forward (Pull the ribbon under the rear of the seats or use the lever at the side/bottom of the seat to release the seats to tip) 3. The seat(s) to be fitted needs to be folded and it head rest placed in lowest position. 4. pick the seat up using the short bar at the rear of the seat squab (i.e the rear of the seat) 5. Offer the front end of the seat that is hanging down over the forward 2 mounting points and let it rest on them. 6. Squeeze the release bar together under the seat and the front two seat latches should drop into the mounting points and engage. 7. Pull the rear end of the seat down firmly to engage the rear two points. Better if someone took step by step pictures.......

Fuel pump primes when you open the door to pressurise the system and assist instantaneous start. Standard on all VAG petrol models. If sufficient pressure exists in the fuel system it doesnt do it hence the "does it after its been stood"

You fitted the wrong bulb or the bulb is incorrectly fitted. The Gal uses a 21w/5w dual filament bulb with offset pins. You may have bought a single filament bulb or a dual filament bulb with standard pins. The other possibilty is that you "forced" the bulb in a incorect fashion so the connections are crossed. In any case the parking/brake light circuits are shorted together confusing everyone including the on board computer.

Check the main fuse/terminal box in the engine compartment - the one that the alternator leads go into. Often this is burnt up causing intermittent connections. Then check the fuse box under the drivers dash - look for loose relays - Relay30 may be dicky (dry joints) and often the connections to the bases of the relays come loose (requires quite a strip down to inspect) These cause intermittent problems when driving over bumps.

Maybe once a month I get the briefest misfire when accelerating hard - just as if the engine misses one or two beats. I put this down to not having changed the fuel filter for over 60,000 miles - could be water - i have noticed some air bubbles in the clear fuel pipe going to the pump - could be that.

incontinence Pads? Don't laugh - we all eventually need them. ^_^

Well, a lot of the faults have, I presume, now been fixed (i.e. speedo, brakes, airbag etc). However the corrosion around handbrake (is it that bad or just a bit of rusty staining on substantial metal?) and the garden hose a/c repair (unknown hidden damage and piss poor diy neglect/servicing) are probably enough for me to say no.....look for another. Some other poor sap will be joining us in a few weeks time asking about how he can get his a/c working etc on his new motor! ^_^

Next to the wiper motor / end of pollen filter are the 2 pipes that go to the front heater matrix. This AFAIK is the highest point in the cooling system and most likely place for airlocks. Picture shown has the scuttle tray removed (3 bolts) to get better access. No bleed valves AFAIK.

Has anyone else noticed all those members who advocated and/or had their cars "chipped", "remapped" or "tuned" seemed to have disappeared?......IIRC a few openly stated they sold their cars and went to a different brand following unsolvable cooling problems. I guess a lot of those "chipped" cars are finding their way back here. :(

Not sure, but I think you can get psychological counselling on the NHS nowadays.... :( Ignore Sepulchrave, he drives a V6 and as such is certifiably insane :D Ignore Gregers, he's still getting over the loss of his dog. (More probably the VET bills) :D But seriously.....best advice is read the faq, use the search and STOP USING BOLD FACE! Its all on here somewhere.

WILL YOU READ THE REPLIES PEOPLE HAVE POSTED TO YOUR QUERIES? :D Halfords have sold you a battery for a petrol galaxy. HSB075 is a 61AH battery - hopelessly inadequate for a 1.9Tdi. It will probably pack in, in next to no time. Go back and complain - you need a HSB019 or a HB019 as Big Kev stated.

Mk1 Tdi requires an 017 battery (90+Ah) which fills the entire battery tray. The 096 battery is only suitable for petrol engined models and is too small for diesel models.

Yes - they need to have a load rating of at least that specified by the manufacturer - check the manual.

Not sure the 94 load rating of the narrower tyre is sufficient - check your manual. Also check with insurance if fitting non original size/rating tyre - usually no charge but insurance invalid if you dont tell them.

Change the battery - failing that, then change the car. ;) Why do so many people make simple things difficult? :(