seatkid

I thought all Shalaxys had rear heaters of some type. Just some didnt have booster/aux units.

Faulty glowplugs or glowplug relay most likely.

Geneva Motor Show will see the launch of the new Sharan.

Only on diesel models - I dont think the petrol ones start at all. I may be wrong.

Subject to managers discretion. Obviously in winter they dont stick to the 10% offer (see small print for full detail)

And don't forget that the compressor will not kick in if the ambient temperature is below 5 deg C.

Crack open the pipes out of the top of the front heater matrix. Located to the left of the wiper motor.

There is a drain pipe from the rubber surround (small hole below the filler cap) that should go to below the car - looks as if you pulled off the pipe when you pulled out the surround or some similar thing.

EU requirement for all vehicles IIRC

If the belt snaps, the best you will get is a new belt. Consequential damage is NEVER included.

Pressure switch is a 3 way affair - will inhibit operation on too low or too high pressure. i.e. too liitle gas or too much. Make sure that the correct weight of gas has been filled - There is a plate showing the correct weight next to the bonnect catch mechanism - 2 quantites are shown depending whter you have single or dual cc system - note most vehicles have single systems - the dual systems have rear air vents in the roof lining and only one electric opening rear quarter window. (The front rear controls on the control units do NOT indicate a dual system) These pressure switches also known to fail, sometimes the wires drop off or become disconnected. Depending on engine fitted ( :25: another poster who thinks we are mystics) there are other sensors that can inhibit operation and cause the flashing displaying - e.g. the icing sensor on the evaporator (Ford engines AFAIK))

Seat Alhambra uses VW 2.0 litre petrol engine not Ford. Dont think it has a MAF. Suggest you change the HT leads, distributor cap and rotor.

Usually leaks are 1) Pipe supplying rear washer - usually comes apart in passager footwell but could have other joints that come apart. 2) Front windscreen 3) Front bulkhead - there are sealed joints that can leak. 4) Through front heater - beause the drains in the scuttle tray under the windscreen are blocked and water gets in via the pollen filter. Are you sure the rear quarter lights are closed and sealed properly?

Probably not unless you can prove gross negligence, which would be very difficult. Not worried about the belt - its the setting up - timing/alignment - tightening the bolts correctly (over or undertightening), not damaging components, bad practices/shortcuts e.g how they support the engine etc. And a lot of people get their cars back with additional problems - pipes pulled off, wiring disconnected or damaged.

Have you recently changed the batteries in the remote keyfob? (And in doing so, lost the PATS chip)

:( How many times do we have to say..... What engine type, model, year? :huh: We are not mind readers. Probably a faulty water pump (detached plasic impeller) or a faulty thermostat (not closing fully).

Probably MAF sensor. Classic symptoms and correct test. Shop around - most dealers (try VW/SEAT) do them at

My biggest worry is that they fit the replacement parts properly and get the timing right. Its a precision job and there is more than enough evidence posted on this forum that a proportion of these changes go horribly wrong. Mine was done by a well established VW dealer who I know well. Even then, when I subsequently revoved the air filter box to clean it out, I came across a big long deep gouge in the wing :huh: where they evidently hamfistedly slipped with a large bar or something. No attempt was made to repair the damage which might corrode through in a matter of a year or two. Didnt inspire me that the rest of the job was spot on. To me the risk of changing is almost as great as the risk of not changing. I personally wouldnt change it earlier the recommended interval. Having seen the service schedule for other VAG marques using the same engine I note that some (e.g Skoda) used to advocate regular inspection to as much as 100,000 miles! However the design in the Shalaxy doesnt permit inspection of the components without removing the engine mount. :( Also Continental (OEM to VAG) have long boasted that their belts are lifetime components.

Chicken..... :huh:

If the alignment check (toe in/out) is correct (not a foregone conclusion unless youve checked at two garages) then its usually a camber issue - non adjustable on the rear AFAIK. Look at the back of the car from a distance and you should see if the rear tyres are vertical (correct) or leaning in at the top and out at the bottom. Check that the ride height is correct at the rear. If it is too low - caused by either soft springs/too much weight or by a previous owner lowering the suspension then the geometry change (camber) will mean that the inside edges wear out faster. Changing the springs may correct this. Also check the shock absorbers as worn out shockers lead to accelerated wear (usually uneven) as well being dangerous. Wallowing ride in the rear (can give kids car sickness) and hairy handling on S bends is the clue.

Is this a promo for the new Shalaxy?

My advice is to change the cambelt before it fails..... :P Changed mine at 75,000 miles / 7.5 years and it all looked fine and good for another 75,000 miles on inspection. However its a lowly stressed 90bhp Tdi (not PD) and is garaged regularly. I reckon a significant factor in deteriation of belts are environmental - e.g. temperature cycling and formation of moisture on the belts. Also, not all cars are lucky enough to have a good driver like myself :P :P

Don't forget to multiply by the number of firing cylinders divided by 4. (For those with coil pak problems) :46:

As I said....No.3 injector... :D :46:

No.1 injector